Thanks. I find myself using it more and more these days. Not necessarily to apply beads that look nice, but for taking the oil-can out of a panel or for greater strength. The bead on the intake tube is an obvious benefit.
I may have mentioned it before, maybe not in this thread, but certainly in others. Every job is different. That's the beauty of having custom work done. No two are the same.
Getting to use quality new components that have been carefully thought out and put into a kit was a very exciting feature of the E-ROD. This not being my first rodeo with V8's in FJ60's, I figured it would be a slam dunk. Man, that couldn't be further from the truth. So many little things make every day an adventure on this job. Yes, there are a lot of details that remain the same from the past installs, but nothing is so similar that I can just make templates for every bracket, tube, mount or hole. I figure there should be four templates for these builds (which I will strive to develop as I build more of these): one for truck engine with manual trans, one for truck with auto, one for car style with manual trans and another for car engine with auto. They all have their unique characteristics.
With that in mind, and most of the fabrication work done, the details are starting to fall into place.
One such detail is the bracket for the fuse panel. The fuse panel that came in this kit is of an OEM GM style and rather on the bulky side. But the interior space of the panel affords future upgrades with extra relay slots and large and small blade fuse slots. Going with my "should-look-like-factory" mantra, I got to work on a bracket that fit the space and looked like it may have come from Toyota.
The legs are splayed and bead rolled for extra strength and the OEM look.
Underneath the fuse panel is where I like to make my battery connections. Since I do not like to have more than a couple cables going to each post on the battery itself, I use a power post as a junction block for extra connections, like the winch.
I may or may not buss these two post together. When I get to that point, I'll decide.
Fitting the ECM connectors through the firewall is a major challenge. There's really only one spot it can be done. On FJ62's, this hole is already there, but on FJ60's, it has to be punched out. I use my grandfather's electrical box knockout tools for this job, since they make a nice, round hole with only minor cleanup needed.
The hole is huge, and almost doesn't fit, but it has to be large or the ECM connectors will not fit through.
In the past, I have used OEM Toyota firewall grommets for the sealing of the hole, but the source of good ones is drying up and they tend to be on the small side. I still don't know what I am going to do to seal this hole, but I have a few aftermarket grommets on order and I'll try each one for fit. I wish someone sold OEM style firewall boots for large diameter holes. The majority of the grommets out there look like they belong in a billet '32 Ford roadster. That's not the look I'm going for...
Very nice work and well thought out . The discriptions and photos are also excellent !
I have a erod in my BJ73...love it so far. Fuel consumption is still bad however , a little worse than the diesel it came with , but the extra 300 plus hp makes up for it . 15 MPG HWY /10 City. Loaded with three adults and AT trailer it gets about 10 MPG on the highway cruising at 65mph.
I’ll be curious how the 60 fuel economy turns out with the same swap?
The punches are just one tool in the box and I use them a lot. One of these days, I'll get around to making the custom shaped punch and flarte dies for my iron worker. Though they wouldn't help me punching holes in the body of a car, they would help with custom fabrication. I know someone sells punch and flare dies, but not in the shapes I want.
More progress has been made and I should be ready for disassembly and powder coating in the next couple of days. It is getting cramped in the engine bay, but I found a nice hiding spot for the A/C drier. Pics soon.