FJ80 header down pipes?

AZBaobab

Observer
(feel free to bite my head off if this is the wrong spot to ask this...)

All right a question for you geniuses of all things awesome:

Good news: I just bought a '94 LC and I love it! (complete with the Fr/Rr lockers aka Knob of Power. YEEEE!) Not a thing wrong with it except the bad news... (and some rust on the belly, but that's being dealt with).

Bad news: There's likely a hole in the header exhaust down pipe that's tripping the O2 sensor and setting off the 'check engine' light. Therefore, I can't get it through VA safety/emissions as they won't even put it on the machine with the light on.

The question: I can go and get a whole new set of header pipes (~$225 used, from cruiserparts.net). Or... I might try to go to auto zone, get some JBweld, and plug the hole(s). I've already found one pin hole right near where one of them enters the cat, and I think that's it, as it's right under the sensor.

So... aside from the obvious fact that it's only a temporary fix, is there anything seriously bad about the idea?

Thanks in advance!
 

Layonnn

Adventurer
I just bought a 1997.
The entire rear seam of the muffler was rusted through and the exhaust was loud as he11. In a last ditch effort as i wait for a replacement exhaust, i put a thick layer of JB weld along the seam. The truck is SO much quieter and runs better.

I'd say if you definitely need to replace the headers anyway, but just want to try to get through inspection, it's worth a try!
 

Klierslc

Explorer
I have a leak on my Y pipe, but it doesn't trigger my MIL. You probably need a new set of O2 sensors. In the meantime, get some muffler weld, (I have it on my truck too) patch everything up, reset the codes and take it down to the shop to see how it does.
 

AZBaobab

Observer
I just bought a 1997.
The entire rear seam of the muffler was rusted through and the exhaust was loud as he11. In a last ditch effort as i wait for a replacement exhaust, i put a thick layer of JB weld along the seam. The truck is SO much quieter and runs better.

I'd say if you definitely need to replace the headers anyway, but just want to try to get through inspection, it's worth a try!
Thanks for the advice, I think I will go ahead and give it a try. I checked with the shop, and they said as long as it plugs the leak: there's nothing wrong with it (from a legal standpoint anyway...). And if it doesn't work, I'm only out the ~$10 for the good stuff, and back to where I am now anyway.

I have a leak on my Y pipe, but it doesn't trigger my MIL. You probably need a new set of O2 sensors. In the meantime, get some muffler weld, (I have it on my truck too) patch everything up, reset the codes and take it down to the shop to see how it does.
Isn't the Y pipe on the down side of the cat's from the sensor? If so, a leak down there shouldn't set anything off... I'd think...

And the 94's were the last year without the ODS = no codes to 'reset'. ;)
 

Klierslc

Explorer
Isn't the Y pipe on the down side of the cat's from the sensor? If so, a leak down there shouldn't set anything off... I'd think...

And the 94's were the last year without the ODS = no codes to 'reset'. ;)


The Y pipe is in between the headers and the cats. You absolutely do have an on board diagnostic system and you are absolutely throwing a code.;)

Connect a paper clip between pins E1 and TE1 on your diagnostic connector (located in the engine bay, on the firewall, passenger side) turn on the ignition (not the engine) and count how many times the Engine light blinks. It will blink blink blink, then pause and blink some more, then long pause, then give you either the next code or repeat the one that is in there. Until you know what your code is, you are wasting time on the exhaust.
 

Klierslc

Explorer
Yup,

I will be wrenching on mine tomorrow too so if you want a bit of help let me know.

I also have an electronic FSM that I can burn to a disc if you want.....
 

Skrewball

Observer
you should stop by Iron Pig Offroad sometime if you haven't already.

also if you need technical assistance on anything landcruiser, we can help.
 

AZBaobab

Observer
Yup,

I will be wrenching on mine tomorrow too so if you want a bit of help let me know.

I also have an electronic FSM that I can burn to a disc if you want.....
Thanks, I just saw your post this morning.
And I stand corrected: after a closer examination under the hood, there is indeed a little box labeled "diagnostics". I'll try that trick with the paperclip. Now to just figure out which are the E1 and TE1 pins...

you should stop by Iron Pig Offroad sometime if you haven't already.

also if you need technical assistance on anything landcruiser, we can help.
I'll most certainly do that! I was struggling to find a place around here that dealt with cruisers...
Unfortunately, I need to replace the passenger side running board. Yea, before you snort coffee out your nose, I have to have the running boards on there as an appeasement to the wife for having the LC in the first place. Balance in all things. ;)
 

Klierslc

Explorer
IPOR is a great place to take your truck--they will treat you right. There should be a sticker inside the diagnostics cap that tells which pin is what....
 

AZBaobab

Observer
Right, I headed over to IPOR... Those guys are awesome!
Anyway, I think I got it fixed: sounds like bad knock sensors rather than O2 sensors...
Just waiting on cruiserparts.net now.
 

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