Floating floor or secure it?

volcomsurfer

Adventurer
So what are the advantages and disadvantages of securing a floor to the van? I'm not sure how much the body flexes and if it needs some give. I was planning on securing the cabinets to the wood floor and to the walls of the van, so it will still be pretty secure in its own right.

So foam board, then wood on top is the plan. I'm thinking about running furring strips and putting a bolt through the floor of the van and the furring strip. Then just use wood screws to secure the wood floor to the furring strips. It would be a pain in the *** to take it apart if I have to, but it will be solid.

Is this overkill or a good idea? Also, any opinions on using OSB for the subfloor?

Here's the idea..
 

DAV!D

Adventurer
I used pergo in mine and it's floating. I still haven't added trim to the edges and it hasn't gone anywhere. If you secure it with screws or what ever it means more holes for rust and water to fine a home..
 

ohpyramids

Adventurer
If you are looking for a more simple route, Ive read that people are happy with strips of closed cell foam in the floor valleys, and a 1/2" sheet of plywood on top of that.

Also- ive read that its bad to attach the cabinets to the wall. These van bodies flex alot and itll introduce lots of stress and squeaks into the cabinetry. If you arent hardcore offroading it might not be a big deal.

But- im still driving around in a completely uninsulated steel box with a 7.3 on the end of it. Dont have any personal info for ya.
 

fog cutter

Adventurer
if you mean van floor (corrugated), i think it's a better idea to leave the lows open so any potential condensation/ infiltration has a way to dry out. i've seen some with foam stuck in the low spots but i would not feel comfortable doing that. from the drawing above, the only addition might be some foam or rubber between the metal rib and furring strip in an attempt to prevent squeaks.
 

boardrider247

Weekend warrior anarchist
Is anyone concerned in regards to a floating floor with moisture or water getting between new floor and base creating mold?
Personally yes I am. Which is why I still have a removable bed rug in back of our van. Occasionally I will pull it out vacuum up the sand and wipe the floor down, then let everything dry for a day or two before reassembly.

My long term solution/planned solution will be to have sections of removable floating floor and keep up the same routine of cleaning and drying out.
 

Campbulance

Observer
Good Question, Subscribed to see the discussions.

I will be doing this shortly as well. From the videos I have watched it has been so many different ways although not many clearly show if it is secured to the floor or not. My idea is to use 4x8 (probably 1/4" thickness) sheets of wood over some sort of insulation/noise reduction material. My panels wood be floating on top since they will be fairly large and should hold themselves in place. This isn't set in stone as I haven't got to that point yet.
 

Paddy

Adventurer
I covered my metal with adhesive sound damping rubber stuff, like fat mat but cheaper. Isobutylene? 100% coverage. Then reinstalled the factory plywood. Sound level is acceptable and I don't think it needs any additional insulation, as we won't be camping in such cold conditions I don't think, and even if so, diesel heat is cheap. I used pop rivets to secure floor, as that's what it had originally.
 
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