fuso 4x4 rebuild

alan

Explorer
finished welding up the battery tray and generator/compressor box, 6 x 100ah gel batteries (7.2kw) it will be zinc plated and then maybe powder coated





 

alan

Explorer
Yeep! the more isolated the better! this bank is both the starter and house batteries, so no separate batteries for start and house, i can charge them from the alternator,solar panels,24v 30amp gen set, and from mains through the 1500w inverter/charger/solar regulator.
 

blackduck

Explorer
your not over engineering it a tad are you Alan
there has to be 1/4 tonne of batteries there, are you planning on compensating the other side for that weight with something other than fuel
with 3 x 120A/Hr AGM,s I could survive without charge for 6 days or so without changing my habits
although Im not a fan of having one bank of batteries for all services
having the starter batteries on a separate system isolated from house services somehow gives you peace of mind
 

alan

Explorer
your not over engineering it a tad are you Alan
there has to be 1/4 tonne of batteries there, are you planning on compensating the other side for that weight with something other than fuel
with 3 x 120A/Hr AGM,s I could survive without charge for 6 days or so without changing my habits
although Im not a fan of having one bank of batteries for all services
having the starter batteries on a separate system isolated from house services somehow gives you peace of mind
Each battery is 30kg's so a total of 180kg's, the other side has two fuel tanks 160 litres which is approx 160kg's so the balance is'nt too bad, did i tell you about the 24v air conditioner!
If the truck never starts because of a flat batteries i am happy to wait until the genset recharges them or the solar, i could get the wife to push start it:)
 

Oilburner

Adventurer
Alan where did you source the engine rebuild parts (pistons etc)? Any recommendations to pass on? It looks like I am buying from Oz regardless for my 4D34 (unless I buy from Mitsubishi). I know the cam in mine was good when I changed the bottom end bearings, but I suspect I have a ring issue on at least one cylinder. I have decent compression in 1 through 3, but 4 is slow to build.

That battery box is impressive!!!

Thanks,

JL
 

alan

Explorer
Hi JL this is the company i purchased all the engine parts from, they are in China, you can save a fortune but be careful! insist on quality parts only, most of mine were made in Japan so no problem, they rely on genuine part numbers so i suggest you get a quote from a mitsubishi dealer and have the part numbers available for them, also make sure they open all parts and check the part numbers on the actual parts is correct, i ended up with the right part number on the box but the wrong parts in the box, very frustrating!! all up for pistons,bearings,oil pump,camshaft,water pump,gasket set,valves,guides,seat inserts,rings,liners i paid approx $600aud if i had bought them in Australia from mitsubishi it would have been approx $8000aud.
http://www.hs-cmparts.com/?LanguageAlias1=en
 

Oilburner

Adventurer
That's brilliant Alan, thank you. I do have a list of part numbers. The only concern is that the head gasket appears to come in three thicknesses (A, B and C) and I won't know until I pull the head. I guess I can split the difference and order a "B".
 

alan

Explorer
That's brilliant Alan, thank you. I do have a list of part numbers. The only concern is that the head gasket appears to come in three thicknesses (A, B and C) and I won't know until I pull the head. I guess I can split the difference and order a "B".
the head gaskets normally come in different thicknesses to compensate for block surface machining, my engine only had a few thou taken off, i did measure the piston travel, they sat 20 thou or 1/2mm above the block, the std headgasket was 1.5mm thick so this left 1mm for clearance which was in spec.
 

Hoddo0

New member
At this stage i will see what it drives like, if i'm not happy with it i can easily change it and also set the height more accurately.

Hi Alan, I'm inclined to agree with Ben2Go about those high lift blocks - re issues with axle twist. But having just dealt with my Canter suspension issues by replacing the crap standard leaves with parabolic - have u considered those? I went with a 4 leaf and the heavier 5th leaf overrider and got an extra 6inch lift and had to remove the spacers. Ride is so much better - more supple and far greater articulation. Might be a bit expensive, but I'm sold. Mine's about 2.5 to 3 tonnes on rear axle - I guess yours would be 3 to 3.5 tonnes. Regards Steve
 

Hoddo0

New member
Alan: After two big recent outback trips (25,000KMS) I thought I'd throw in my experience with batteries. Like you I went with sealed AGM batteries on separate bank to the starter batteries. Anyway on both trips, the AGMs failed (open circuit). On each occasion I replaced them with straight HD lead-acid truck batteries and those have never failed. Lesson learnt - I'm not sold on AGM for very rough stuff. I's also inclined to think your capacity is an overkill - 300AH should be heaps - particularly with modern energy efficient LED lightning. We run a fridge and a freezer in very hot areas with only 150AH with 300W solar panels. Regards Steve
 

whatcharterboat

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Alan: After two big recent outback trips (25,000KMS) I thought I'd throw in my experience with batteries. Like you I went with sealed AGM batteries on separate bank to the starter batteries. Anyway on both trips, the AGMs failed (open circuit). On each occasion I replaced them with straight HD lead-acid truck batteries and those have never failed. Lesson learnt - I'm not sold on AGM for very rough stuff. I's also inclined to think your capacity is an overkill - 300AH should be heaps - particularly with modern energy efficient LED lightning. We run a fridge and a freezer in very hot areas with only 150AH with 300W solar panels. Regards Steve

Hi Steve, firstly welcome to ExPo.

I certainly don't want to make light of your experience but I do want to share this build with Alan.....it is a brave thing to run one battery bank even if it is an overkill capacity......the vehicle below also has done some really heavy tr avel too, Connie Sue, Anne Beadell, Gunbarrel, Canning, Cape, etc, etc but we set it up with only one bank of 2 x180ah AGM (180ah @ 24v) ....either Full River or Ritar....can't remember exactly......4x 68watt Unisolar laminates and a diesel Watts2c Powermaker (2.5kva@24vdc) shown in the rear left locker, to limit depth of discharge and cut in whenever load exceeded 40 amps. There were some big loads too. Large AirCon , bread maker, coffee machine run by 3000w inverter, v2x fridges, sat TV, etc. The first time I checked the hour meter , a bit over a year in service, the Powermaker had only clocked about 120 hours .....these guys free camped in this truck for almost 3 years too albeit in very open country so the solar would have been very effective and also they moved around a bit so alternator charging would also have played a big part.

image.jpg

BTW They changed out the batteries after 4 years purely as a precaution even though they were still showing no sign of deterioration. Remember the pair of AGMs were the only bank of batteries on the truck. I should also mention that battery temperatures were monitored by the Powermaker too so they should never have got hot under load or overcharging .... And my thought is that heat can be a contributing factor in 'open circuit' battery failures.

I think in theory, an AGM by its construction format should be more robust than a typical lead/acid but maybe there was a quality issue there with those that failed on you.

Note that this was the only truck I have ever had anything to do with that runs a combined start/house and while it may sound scary it has worked extremely well in this case with effective monitoring.

Regards John
 
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