Fuso SRW options

IcedVolvo

Observer
IcedVolvo, what about the requirement for the singles to be a minimum of the width of the duals combined? (if you're under 4500)

Yes I have seen this "code of practice" but it's not an ADR specification and seems to only apply to "light vehicles" with "with standard axles and suspension" but not sure how this is applied in the various states or in the case of 4WDs or trucks.

For example it is certainly not applied in heavy trucks where typically a 445/70R22.5 super single replaces a standard dual 275/295 fitting.

I think as long as your rim/tyre load ratings are within spec (and are AS approved for its use) you are probably OK.

The other poster is correct: Australia is a mess with all its various state rules/regulations/codes of practice and overlapping federal ADRs etc. We really should just have one set of rules! At the moment the easiest place to get registered is QLD. But once registered it is impossible to move states. For example my truck is registered in QLD but if I wanted to move it to NSW I have to get new NSW engineering certificates for every single modification to the truck; the local engineer simply told me to forget it as he would require mechanical drawings/specifications for EVERY single structural component not fitted on the vehicle as supplied by ISUZU. The cost to get new NSW approved engineering plates could exceed $30,000 so in Queensland it stays!

The ideal situation is to get Federal registration which means you only have to obey the ADRs and any qualified engineer can sign off. I almost got it as I live right on the border and the truck is registered in the company name and crosses the border several times a day. But fell over at the last hurdle as some bureaucrat in Canberra insisted that the rules require that the truck's PURPOSE must be to "move freight or passengers between states" whereas I was only "conducting business between states". In the end the easier option was to down rate to 4500kg in QLD: no inspections and far less dramas with police/RTA etc.

As WhatcharterBoat is saying: its better to have all the boxes ticked it's just knowing which box to tick in which state that's the problem!!!
 

Flys Lo

Adventurer
Is it safe to assume that if my vehicle conforms to the licensing requirements of my country I may still have problems driving the vehicle in other countries?
Yeah thats fine.

The hilarious part (if your humor is as sadistic as mine). I've been living in the US for 12 months, and as such, I can legally take a vehicle into Aus permanently which bypasses almost every single rule in Australia, just needs to have child restraints and I have to convert it to RHD.


Australia's auto regulations are effing stupid.
We really should just have no rules!
I fixed that for you.
 

whatcharterboat

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Australia is a mess with all its various state rules/regulations/codes of practice and overlapping federal ADRs etc. We really should just have one set of rules! ...............................
The ideal situation is to get Federal registration which means you only have to obey the ADRs and any qualified engineer can sign off.

Well said Jon.
 

blackduck

Explorer
Here's a little story for you
a long time ago in a magical place all the government transport authorities gathered together to formulate a single set of rules to govern the heavy vehicle industry
they came to an agreement and the National heavy Vehicle Legislation was born
HOORAH cried the long suffering minions of the transport industry
when all the pats on the back had ceased they went back to their states and amended the legislation to personalise it to their individual requirements
so now we have a national act with 7 different sets of legislation
The End

And you guys think for a moment they could nationalise licensing, registration and vehicle standards
they cant even drive by the same set of road rules

Ive just finished registering a little camper trailer I built for my bike
finished (10).jpg
To make it compliant to national standards it doesn't comply to WA
and if it complies with WA its not compliant nationally
catch 22 or what
I know bugger federation its not like we're using it to the benefit of all Australians:wings:
 

mog

Kodiak Buckaroo
Moved from this thread HERE
Wheeling maybe, overlanding definitely not. The aim is to keep going for as long as possible with as few technical issues as possible.
I don't even think it's about untested vs tested. Some off-highway kit is built more solidly than we would ever need. However as ALL*long distance travel vehicles use roads that others use it would simply be horribly irresponsible to use a wheel without qualification stamps. In a developed country where damage claims can be very high insurance companies will do everything in their power to avoid paying. An unrated wheel that breaks on the trail is one thing (annoying but you just,deal with it), but considering the speeds and the proportion of time spent on roads it's statistically more likely to fail or provoke a failure on a public road. If a third party is involved and a set of unqualified wheels negate the insurance payout you won't be a very happy camper...

This subject has been covered at length in the srw conversion thread. Can we please move further discussion over there! Thanks!

I'd have to say the whole ‘cool stamp of approval' on wheels in the USA is a crapshoot.
-
I've bought DOT ‘approved' wheels for many vehicles and in general they do not have the nice official approval-rating-etc stamped or cased in them. As example, I bought a set of Edge Wheels for my F250 in 2002 when they started making the style I liked for 8-lugs. I did not even notice until I took them to have tires mounted that the only thing casted into them was a weight rating under the rating of my truck, so the tire shop would not mount the tires. A call to Edge revealed that they had not changed the casing sticker on the mold. So I got an official letter on Edge letterhead stating the ‘true' rating and the tire shop was happy (and me). But if I have a wheel failure, I'm not sure if I would be able to find that letter, so what is a guy to do?
-
Or ‘Rickson' wheels. Look at the massive failure that heimbig had with his Rickson wheels in this post HERE
Yet it turns out that Rickson makes the Firematic wheels (Link)for First Responders that are quote “The rim is third party certified by Standard Testing Labs”. SO, humm ?, cool third party testing for emergency vehicles and massive failure from the same company ?
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My point being, the only way I would feel 100% confident in my wheels is getting them from someone like ATW, Alan's Bling, Earthcruiser, etc that has to have them certified outside the USA. But on the flip side, it is not irresponsible IMO to run wheels the operator is confined with. I would guess that most of us take a great interest in our vehicles to include wheels/tire and therefor inspect and monitor them closely. And you build confidence with the experience gained. My example, after 50,000 miles on my F250 with those Edge wheels, I'm very confident that they will not fail.
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If 'the lawyers' after the fact are not complaining about an unstamped wheel, they will be complaining about your oversize tires, your over weight vehicle, your non-duel rear wheels as the truck was designed, you driving a 'commercial vehicle' that has been home converted to an unsafe motorhome, the fact that the SpeedyMart guy saw you buy two Redbulls energy drinks 2 hours prior to the accident, etc, etc, etc.
 
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SuperVan

Forager
Any new news on other outlets for the conversion to Single Rear Wheels on the Fuso?

I specifically am looking for options for a 2005-2007 Fuso FG140. I know the usual suspects for the conversion in Nor Cal and OR. Love to hear about other options that have popped up in the last couple years and see some photos as well. I plan on keeping my GVW under 10K.

TIA~
K
 

Czechsix

Watching you from a ridge
I think it's still the same...16", 17", and 19.5", plus of course if you want to go Rickson....:smilies27
 

alan

Explorer
I spoke with an automotive engineer today here in victoria Australia, regarding super single wheels, the engineer tells me if the wheel and tyre are rated for lets say 1800kg's on the rear, then the axle rating must be derated to 3600kg. taking into account mits and isuzu front axles are rated to 2800kg this gives you a total of 6400kg to work with providing the rear 3600kg is not exceeded, the engineer was happy with our alloy wheels and testing, it only requires a report and a new tyre axle placard which they provide, approximate cost $440 aud. i hope this helps clear up some of the misconceptions.:smiley_drive:
 

jostalli

Observer
I just price checked with some of the sources. ATW is obscenely expensive. Earthcruiser is pretty high too. Seems the best option is Kym Bolton's at Goannatracks.com
 

pugslyyy

Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
I just price checked with some of the sources. ATW is obscenely expensive. Earthcruiser is pretty high too. Seems the best option is Kym Bolton's at Goannatracks.com

Hmm, what pricing were you seeing?

ATW? Last I saw (which is a few years ago) was $2685 USD.

EC?

Goannatracks = $2500 AUD + $400 shipping.

The Goannatracks are cheaper but I'm not seeing an obscene difference. ATW wheels are a different beast anyways, so not exactly an apples-to-apples comparison. If you like the smaller rims and don't need the full weight carrying capacity of your chassis then yes it is an options.
 

canter tourer

Adventurer
I spoke with an automotive engineer today here in victoria Australia, regarding super single wheels, the engineer tells me if the wheel and tyre are rated for lets say 1800kg's on the rear, then the axle rating must be derated to 3600kg. taking into account mits and isuzu front axles are rated to 2800kg this gives you a total of 6400kg to work with providing the rear 3600kg is not exceeded, the engineer was happy with our alloy wheels and testing, it only requires a report and a new tyre axle placard which they provide, approximate cost $440 aud. i hope this helps clear up some of the misconceptions.:smiley_drive:

Sounds like a great option, does the new placard also include the 315-75-16 tyres too??
 

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
i hope this helps clear up some of the misconceptions.

Firstly Alan, I am not trying to dismiss anything that you have been told, but I must admit to still being a little confused.
It seems strange to me that ATW would have their rims, both steel and alloy, DOT approved to >3000KG each, as there is a definite cost in doing this. Their original steel rims were rated at 6000KG, which was obvious overkill. I know that getting them certified at 6000KG cost significantly more than it does for their current rims, but I was told that certifying the rims at 3000KG was not cheap either.
Why would ATW get their Canter/Isuzu rims rated so high if it was not necessary? It just does not make sense to me.
 

alan

Explorer
Firstly Alan, I am not trying to dismiss anything that you have been told, but I must admit to still being a little confused.
It seems strange to me that ATW would have their rims, both steel and alloy, DOT approved to >3000KG each, as there is a definite cost in doing this. Their original steel rims were rated at 6000KG, which was obvious overkill. I know that getting them certified at 6000KG cost significantly more than it does for their current rims, but I was told that certifying the rims at 3000KG was not cheap either.
Why would ATW get their Canter/Isuzu rims rated so high if it was not necessary? It just does not make sense to me.

Thats a good question i don't know what the rules are in QLD,
 

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