GMC Jimmy (K5 Blazer) 5.3 Vortec 3 link coil spring build.

Wally'sJimmy

Observer
Fuel system upgrade

Now that I've decided to take the Jimmy in the "Overland" direction it's really got me thinking. I know there's a million things to think about, but here are a few of my concerns that pertain to the truck and repairs.

1. Is it reliable?
2. Can I fix it myself?
3. What important parts should I carry (within reason) that can leave me stranded?
4. Will I be able to find parts in a small town with limited resources?

What do you guy's think? Do you carry extra parts? Now I know we cant carry extra engines and transmissions, but there are things like fuel pumps and crank position sensors that we can carry that could leave you dead in the water so to speak. So after thinking about these things I've decided to upgrade my fuel system to a more OE set up.

When I did the engine swap I used all -6 steel braded line with AN fittings,

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What's wrong with that you ask? Well some of it was extra from previous projects (old) and I was on a tight budget. My big concern was the rubber line deteriorating from the inside out due to all the ethanol in the fuel and the fact that the line was not rated for it. Another concern was if I have a failure in the middle of nowhere will a small town have -6 steel braded line? Probably not, will they have newer parts, or a junkyard with newer-ish cars in it I could get parts from? Probably.

So that lead me to this, OE style Nylon fuel line and quick connect fittings. Not only will ethanol not touch it it's pretty much in every car from the mid 90's forward, not to mention it makes fuel filter changes easier than the Corvette filter/regulator I had. It was a pain in the butt with all the AN adapters. I also picked up 2 different types of sleeves to cover the line. The roll on the top left is an anti abrasion sleeve and the one on the right is a 1200 degree protective sleeve.

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At one point the fuel line is a few inches away from the exhaust so I picked up some high heat sleeve.

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first I had to get all the old stuff out.

P1060345.jpg Here you can see the adapters to the quick connect on the stock fuel rail. Because I was using a Corvette filter/regulator the stock return was capped.

P1060347.jpg Here is the corvette filter and the adapters.

P1060346.jpg and at the fuel pump

Once the old stuff was out of the way I could start laying it out and putting the quick connect ends on.

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Wally'sJimmy

Observer
To connect the fitting to the line is easy, grab a flair tool and clamp the fuel line in in it,

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Next take out the locking clip from the fitting.

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Then find a socket that fits inside the fitting, in this case it was a 10mm for the 3/8 fitting.

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Put a tiny bit of light oil on the end of the fitting and lightly hammer it home.

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I put the fitting on one end of the lines (3/8 feed 5/16 return) connected them to the fuel rail without the locks and ran them down behind the engine and along the frame. I used the heat wrap on the lines closest to the engine and exhaust and the anti abrasion was used along the frame.

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The fuel filter is a very common Ford filter with 3/8 quick connect ends.

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Then ran it out the back.

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Wally'sJimmy

Observer
Once everything was wrapped and clamped in place I could disconnect the lines blow them out, put the locks in and hook everything up.

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And that was it, pretty simple. Now I have the peace of mind knowing my fuel line wont fall apart from the inside out (hopefully). The truck runs much better without the Corvette filter/regulator also. Before it had a weird surge for a couple seconds when it was started, this was due to capped return line on the fuel rail, apparently the regulator on the fuel rail will stay open all the time trying to return fuel but it can't causing the surge or a low fuel pressure condition. I definitely feel better knowing the system is off the shelf OE style aftermarket parts that most auto parts stores will carry.
 

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