HELP: Transfer Case SHIFTER Problem!!

[KIRK!]

OK, so last week after my run, the Montero got stuck in 4Low Low. The shifter moves around, but does not engage or switch settings. I read in someone else's post that they had a similar problem and it was the ball inside the shifter, well, it looks like the ball in mine is gone, so I picked up another one at the junk yard. It's in great condition.

The photo shows the inside the top where the shifter would go. I can't get the new shifter to install in the 4LL position only with the shifter straight up.

Should I be able to move either of the chunky C-shaped pieces? The manual shows the spring as being straight, not bent on the end like mine. Does it go between the C pieces of in another position?

Thanks!

 

[nckwltn]

Haven't done mine yet, but I assume those C pieces move forward and backward (left and right in your image). If the shift lever moves forward in the cab, they would move the opposite direction (sam for left and right).


Someone did say something about making sure the shifter is in 2wd when making the change.... I think the spring was bent in the junkyard one I pulled too.

 

[KIRK!]

They don't move at all.

 

[billygoats]

When you say your shifter moves around, i bet its the slop from the worn original bushing. Both of the levers should move. It does take a bit of heft with a large screwdriver. Think of the force you are using when about 8" of the normal shift handle is pivoting a 2" part on the bottom. I forgot when I reinstalled mine, but when mine got stuck in 4 low, I fiddled with the levers until it was in 2 high. I think the handle will only install one way, so once you manually get the levers in 2 hi, when you install the handle, it should be in the pulled back position and require no force or trick to bolt back on. I think the spring stays pushing on the left lever, but I honestly forgot. You will know right away if the spring was in the right place because the shifter wont work right. If you have to force the shifter once you have the new bushing on, then something was not assembled correctly. It should be real smooth once together. The spring in mine was bent the same way too. I think thats normal.

I think the right lever is the low gear. that needs to go forward. the bottom of the shift handle will go in the hole between the left lever and the spring.

 

[KIRK!]

I'll try to move them again with more force. I can bolt the shifter in, and it fells like it's falling into place, but then it won't move at all.

 

[nckwltn]

the spring may need to be on the right of the male piece. Being on the right, will force the shift knob to the right as well....


so the lever on the left is the 2wd lever all the way forward on the left should be 2wd. where the two line up, that should be the point where the shift lever can move left & right.. then the lever on the right being all the way back would be 4 low...


Soo.... you'll want the right lever all the way forward (toward the engine) and the lever on the left to be all the way forward to be then in 2wd.


put a pencil between your fingers and practice the transfer case shift pattern to see how the transfer case C pieces would be moving.

 

[off-roader]

Carlos aka cap510 should be able to answer this. Those c-shaped metal pieces are your shift forks. They should be able to move. Not sure why yours aren't shifting. I wonder if the plastic pieces that broke off from the shifter fell in and jammed up the shift mechanism. Not all that difficult to disassemble/re-assemble but it helped tremendously that we had a 2nd xcase to go off of. Maybe cap510 can advise. You can find him frequently on either 4x4wire.com or FB. HTH!

 

[eurosonic]

I had this happen to me few months ago. I was in panic mode until I found this technician notice from the dealer . 20 min later everything was fixed. I used a small crowbar to align the shifting mechanism. (see pic)




+ MITSUBISHI S MOTORS
tECHNICAL INFORMATiON
TECHNICAL SERVICE fivu EARN
SUBJECT: No: TSB-01 -23-002
TRANSFER LEVER STUCK IN 4H DATE: February 2001
MODEL: See below
CIRCULATE TO: [] GENERAL MANAGER FX] PARTS MANAGER [X] TECHNICIAN
[Xl SERVICE ADVISOR [Xl SERVICE MANAGER [Xj WARRANTY PROCESSOR [j SALES MANAGER
PIJR POSE
On 4-wheel-drive models, shifting from 4L to 4H should only be done with the vehicle stopped and the transmission in Neutral. If the driver forces the transfer lever from 4L to 4H while the vehicle is moving, the lever may become stuck in 4H.
If the transfer lever goes from the H-L shift fork to the 2-4WD shift fork while the vehicle is moving, the clutch sleeve is forced to return to the low speed gear when it hits the chamfer of the input gear. As a result, the lever is in 4H, but the gear is engaged in 4L.
This bulletin describes how to adjust the transfer shift forks to eliminate this condition.
AFFECTED VEHICLES
1997-2001 Montero Sport models equipped with 4-wheel-drive
PROCEDURE
1. Remove the transfer lever shift knob.
2. Remove the center console.
3. Remove the transfer lever bracket (6 bolts).
FILE UNDER:
Group 23 Automatic Transmission in the Dealer Service Information Binder (2239)
This bulletin supercedes TSB- 00-23-004, issued May, 2000, to correct affected vehicles, shift lever bolt identification, and shift fork positioning Corrections are indicated by ‘b."
BOOT
TRANSFER LEVER
TRANSFER SHIFT LEVER
TRANSFER LEVER BRACKET

Page 2 of 3
TSB-01 -23-002
Continued
4. Lift the boot up and remove the shill lever (4 bolts). Disconnect the vent line from the shift boot.
5. Check the location of the H-L shift fork. If it is not in the H position, use a brass punch to push the shift fork toward the front of the vehicle.
6. Check the location of the 2-4WD shift fork. It it is not in 2WD, use a brass punch to push the shift fork toward the front of the vehicLe,
7. If necessary, adjust the return spring so it can be set with the 2-4WD shift fork.
IMPORTANT: Do not place the return spring in the gap between the H-L shift fork and the 2-4WD shift fork.
8. Remove the old sealant adhesive from the transfer lever and housing contact surfaces.
9. Apply Mitsubishi Silicone Gasket Sealant TSB1 215 (p/n A99OZC1 X02) or equivalent to the transfer lever and housing contact surfaces.
10. Place the end of the transfer lever in the 2-4WD shift fork and reinstall the lever into the housing. Set the return spring.
11. Confirm th at the transfer lever can be moved smoothly.
12. Tighten the bolts securing the lever to 15-22 Nm (11-16 ft/lbs).
APPLY SEALANT
TO TRANSFER LEVER
AND HOUSING
cONTACT SURFACES
S



Page 3 of 3 TSB-01 -23- 002
13. Reinstall the transfer lever boot bracket.
14. Reinstall the center console.
15. Reinstall the transfer lever shift knob.
16. Advise the owner of proper transfer lever operation: Shift from 4L to 4H only with the vehicle stopped and the transmission in Neutral.
WARRANTY INFORMATION
Transfer Shift Fork Adjustment
Nature Code: 99D Cause Code: 990
Labor Operation No. 23111090 Time Allowance: 0.8 hr.
Warranty Coverage: 36 months/361000 miles.
Special Warranty Information: Includes transfer shift lever removal and reinstallation.
Normal warranty procedures apply.
Copyright 2001
Mitsubishi Motor Sales of America, Inc.
All rights reserved.

No need to use a brass hammer. Should be able to move the lever with good leverage. Give me a call if you have qs on where too jam that bar 51O8612244

 

[KIRK!]

Thanks! I already got it back in yesterday, but it's good to know I did it the right way.

It was really hard to get into 4LL before the trip and the dealer told me months ago that it needs adjusting. I'm back to that point, so it's off to the dealer today.

 

[nckwltn]

Thanks! I already got it back in yesterday, but it's good to know I did it the right way.

It was really hard to get into 4LL before the trip and the dealer told me months ago that it needs adjusting. I'm back to that point, so it's off to the dealer today.

I only shift into 4LL with the other gear selector in neutral. Seems that any stress on the transfer case makes it hard to go into 4LL, even with the vehicle not moving.

 

[m3at333hp]

This happened to me about 2 years ago when I did not put the transmission in neutral before shifting from 4H to 4LL. I think at the time I used a crowbar as well and all has been well since that mistake.

 

[nwoods]

Page 2 of 3
TSB-01 -23-002
Continued
4. Lift the boot up and remove the shill lever (4 bolts). Disconnect the vent line from the shift boot.
5. Check the location of the H-L shift fork. If it is not in the H position, use a brass punch to push the shift fork toward the front of the vehicle.
6. Check the location of the 2-4WD shift fork. It it is not in 2WD, use a brass punch to push the shift fork toward the front of the vehicLe,
7. If necessary, adjust the return spring so it can be set with the 2-4WD shift fork. WHAT DOES THIS MEAN?
IMPORTANT: Do not place the return spring in the gap between the H-L shift fork and the 2-4WD shift fork. Oops, I did this part wrong
8. Remove the old sealant adhesive from the transfer lever and housing contact surfaces.
9. Apply Mitsubishi Silicone Gasket Sealant TSB1 215 (p/n A99OZC1 X02) or equivalent to the transfer lever and housing contact surfaces.
10. Place the end of the transfer lever in the 2-4WD shift fork and reinstall the lever into the housing. Set the return spring. Set it how? To what? where? Argh!
11. Confirm th at the transfer lever can be moved smoothly.
12. Tighten the bolts securing the lever to 15-22 Nm (11-16 ft/lbs).

So, the dreaded disintegrating ball issue has occurred to me in the Montero's transfer case. I attempted field repairs but didn't get it to work right, and had to abandon the rig. I'm heading back out today to try again, but there are some fundamental issues that I just don't get. I have highlighted them above.

Here is a photo of how I set everything before reinstalling the lever assembly:

The issue I had upon reassembly was that it when I shifted the transmission (not transfer case) from Park to Reverse or Drive, there was lots of unpleasant grinding noises. I assume this bad? LOL

 

[nckwltn]

I'm pretty sure you want the bar on the left all the way back and the one on the right all the way forward.


I have an extra red valled shifter that still had good life in it. It was replaced about 4 years ago. But I picked up a white ball shifter a few weeks ago at the pick a parts.


Only cat his that I'm on vacation until next week.


Sent from my iPhone

 

[nckwltn]

Crap. On mobile and can't edit. Bar on the drivers side all the way forward! Passenger side all the way back. Stick a pen between your fingers with an inch or two sticking out. Go through the shift pattern. Should give you a good idea of what needs to be where.


Sent from my iPhone

 

[nwoods]

Got it.....home. Got it situated enough to get it home. Kinda funny, first couple attempts didn't quite get it right, third time felt good, so it took it for a drive, quickly discovering the need to stuff a plastic bag over the void! It felt right, kinda. A bit doggy, but definitely in high range. However, all the lights on the drivetrain display were still illuminated. Took me a few minutes to remember the vaccum switch connection that was still unconnected because the shifter wasn't re-installed yet!

Once I reassembled it at all, the lights went away EXCEPT for one;

"HOLD"

Which explains the doggy performance. It won't kick down and shift. Basically stuck in 3rd gear all the time now unless I manually row through the gears.

Not sure what's going on with this. Any suggestions?