Homemade Roofracks.

robert

Expedition Leader
There's one on tacomaworld too I believe. :ylsmoke: Nice job.

Did you cut out some of the cross bars? Are you planning to reinstall them?
 
I generally make a simple fairing out of aluminum that contours to the roof with some sort of a rubber barrier between at and the roof. I've attached them to the rack with adel clamps, or sometimes welded brackets on the roof rack. I'll have to ask the owner what he is going to do.
 
I generally make a simple fairing out of aluminum that contours to the roof with some sort of a rubber barrier between at and the roof. I've attached them to the rack with adel clamps, or sometimes welded brackets on the roof rack. I'll have to ask the owner what he is going to do.
i did something really similar for my truck cap, a word of warning, the rubber edging does squeak on the roof of the cab due to the different ways that the cab and bed are mounted, i'm trying right now to find something that doesn't to no avail
 
i did something really similar for my truck cap, a word of warning, the rubber edging does squeak on the roof of the cab due to the different ways that the cab and bed are mounted, i'm trying right now to find something that doesn't to no avail
Maybe some type of edge trim that also includes a bubble or flap type seal on the edge would stop the squeak. It would block the air yet give space for the truck to flex.
Thinking of something like "Trim-Seals" from "Trim-Lok" will do the job. Most of the larger industrial supply dealers carry this stuff.
https://www.trimlok.com/rubber-extrusion/trim-seal
 
Maybe some type of edge trim that also includes a bubble or flap type seal on the edge would stop the squeak. It would block the air yet give space for the truck to flex.
Thinking of something like "Trim-Seals" from "Trim-Lok" will do the job. Most of the larger industrial supply dealers carry this stuff.
https://www.trimlok.com/rubber-extrusion/trim-seal
thanks, I didn't even know those types of bulb seals existed, it looks like it'd be perfect, any idea where to get shorter lengths?
 
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Here's one I'm working on this weekend, It's not for the Tortuga bus, but for a Jeep Commando that's stolen my passion for the time being...
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I'm a little premature in posting this because the pics will not do justice to the concept until you see it complete, but I was really blown away after reading 63 pages for this thread that no one here had done the “Harbor Freight ATV Cargo Rack” trick, and I figured I'd share for other DIY builders here.
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FYI- these racks are $50 each and come in pre-fabbed modular sections. I've seen many of these built in various ways on other (mostly Jeep) forums.
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This rack will be 51”x 57” and I'll have a 10” extension in front to mount a 42” light bar on. I'll also be building a fiberglass wind deflector in front. It will mount bolted through the hardtop to the integrated roll cage, and ride on “rubber exhaust hangers” ($2.50 each-eBay). I'll be Raptor lining this in color match to the Jeep.
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Anyway, just thought I'd share as folks here should know this rack-hack as I like to call it. I'll post more here when I get it to a more complete status.











 
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Look great, KeyserSoSay! Are you planning to add aux lights on it?
Well, I ordered a 42" curved light bar for the front, plan on dropping it down below the roofline on brackets in front of the top of the windshield (to keep as low a profile as possible in front) and then build a fiberglass wind/tree fairing back to the front of the rack.
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I plan a 3rd brake light in the middle of the back, and probably some rear facing white back-up/reverse lights back there too.

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I'll be shaving the side turn signals from the body, and may place some of those 3/4" LEDs on the rack as well as the rear bumper.
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I do like the idea of some side facing or angle mounted flood lights, but the light-bar I got is supposed to do some of that side flooding already. I may end up adding some down the road.

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I'll post a pic or two here when I get the rack fleshed out, it will be some time before it gets cosmetic treatment- plan to Raptor-line the rack tinted in the same color as the Jeep (Plymouth Scorch Red).
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FWIW- I bought four of these HF ATV racks for $200, but could have gotten away with 3 (for $150). I'm using cannibalized parts and pieces from the 4th rack to weld in additional bracing (I couldn't buy the steel to build this rack for less then $200, so...).
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It was a bit of a chore welding these together on a level plane and creating structural strength in both planes. My solution was a 3/16" angle iron cross/spine down the middle of the rack. It's SOLID now without much added weight.
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Don't laugh too hard at the welds, much was done by my 14 year old kid, and flux-core welding 14 gauge steel to 3/16" is not the prettiest chore.
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Also, I've changed tact since my first post- The commando has a very nice and strong rain gutter type hard-top, and I'll be building a drip-gutter mounting system that will spare me from putting holes in the roof.



 
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Here's one I'm working on this weekend, It's not for the Tortuga bus, but for a Jeep Commando that's stolen my passion for the time being...
`
I'm a little premature in posting this because the pics will not do justice to the concept until you see it complete, but I was really blown away after reading 63 pages for this thread that no one here had done the “Harbor Freight ATV Cargo Rack” trick, and I figured I'd share for other DIY builders here.
`
FYI- these racks are $50 each and come in pre-fabbed modular sections. I've seen many of these built in various ways on other (mostly Jeep) forums.
`
This rack will be 51”x 57” and I'll have a 10” extension in front to mount a 42” light bar on. I'll also be building a fiberglass wind deflector in front. It will mount bolted through the hardtop to the integrated roll cage, and ride on “rubber exhaust hangers” ($2.50 each-eBay). I'll be Raptor lining this in color match to the Jeep.
`
Anyway, just thought I'd share as folks here should know this rack-hack as I like to call it. I'll post more here when I get it to a more complete status.
Not on my jeep, but I added a modified Princess Auto HOB rack (basically the same as HF) as a tongue rack for our trailer. It was a good deal for sure, but as you noted only half-decent thickness of steel which makes it challenging to weld.....and oh my the original welds on that thing were terrible! FWIW your 14 yo did fine...better than my early welds lol
 
Not on my jeep, but I added a modified Princess Auto HOB rack (basically the same as HF) as a tongue rack for our trailer. It was a good deal for sure, but as you noted only half-decent thickness of steel which makes it challenging to weld.....and oh my the original welds on that thing were terrible! FWIW your 14 yo did fine...better than my early welds lol
Well, it's not fair of me to pawn off all the crappy welds onto my kid, much of that mess is mine :smilies27 (like you said though, most are as good as the original Chinaman's welds and they at least had shielding gas).
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The metal in these is light, yes, but that is exactly what you want for a roof-rack. Any heavier would be a stupid move in my opinion. As far as roof-racks go, this 3/4" 14 gauge square tubing is the perfect combo of strong and light. In my area the raw steel would have cost me more than the prefabed panels, but no amount of money I could have thrown at this feature could have provided me a better roof rack for my purposes.
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Anyway, I'll leave it alone. I'm not trying to beat anyone over the head with this idea- I guess it seems pretty redneck to some folks. I'll post the finished version and see if that's still the perception. I just had not seen this trick mentioned in this thread and thought it a worthwhile addition to the homemade roof-rack conversation.
 
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Well, it's not fair of me to pawn off all the crappy welds onto my kid, much of that mess is mine :smilies27 (like you said though, most are as good as the original Chinaman's welds and they at least had shielding gas).
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The metal in these is light, yes, but that is exactly what you want for a roof-rack. Any heavier would be a stupid move in my opinion. As far as roof-racks go, this 3/4" 14 gauge square tubing is the perfect combo of strong and light. In my area the raw steel would have cost me more than the prefabed panels, but no amount of money I could have thrown at this feature could have provided me a better roof rack for my purposes.
`
Anyway, I'll leave it alone. I'm not trying to beat anyone over the head with this idea- I guess it seems pretty redneck to some folks. I'll post the finished version and see if that's still the perception. I just had not seen this trick mentioned in this thread and thought it a worthwhile addition to the homemade roof-rack conversation.
I used these to fab a rack for my LR as well.
I cut off the upper bars that "hold" the cargo in place on these baskets, flipped them upside down and welded back on to go in my gutters.
Then used a small piece of angle iron, a bolt, and a nut to clamp them down to the gutter.
I think I spent about $100 total, and just in materials I would be paying around $175.
 

robert

Expedition Leader
Pretty funny, I just picked up one of the hitch haulers Monday (on sale for $39 w/ coupon) and I've got everything cut and ready to weld an 8" extension in the center. I wanted a long but narrow rack that would still allow me to carry my Yakima Space Booster and my bike. The local muffler shop wanted $20 just for four bends on 1" pipe so I'm coming out pretty cheap even after buying the hardware and a cutting disc or two. I've got the pieces cut for a bolt-on Jerry can holder as well. I still need to find some small latch style toggle clamps for the can retaining straps.
 
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