How Would You Spec It? Ovrlnd Camper

PirateMcGee

Expedition Leader
Yah I've worked with coroplast by making diy trek pak. That was my other material of choice perhaps with some marine carpet on top.

I am planning on poly iso between the studs with neoprene tape or similar around the studs for insulation. Along with the bed rug and propex hs2000 and it should be cozy.

Do you have a link to the radiant/closed cell you used? I would considered adding that to the walls as well as making foldable insulating panels for the vinyl material portion.

My squaredrop was all aluminum with only reflectix for insulation along with carpeted walls. With the propex it stayed warm when hunting elk at -10 in Jan. so I figure this ovrlnd will be similar enough.
 

dstefan

Well-known member
Thats exactly the source I used for my foam core radiant. The stuff you linked is the same as I used but with one face white vinyl. Unless the vinyl makes it a lot stiffer, you might still want a top layer. The vinyl seems like it would be good for the ceiling as a headliner. Kinda wished I’d seen that when I was insulating.

Dont think you be cold no matter what with a Propex!
 

skyfree

Active member
I didn't order mine with any windows and don't regret that at all. I probably would have broken the back windows by now. Having solid doors allows me to stuff stuff in the back and not worry about breaking the windows.

Side windows are not useful for me. The inside driver side wall is where I mounted my recovery boards. Didn't want to have to mount anything on the outside. I rarely sit inside "downstairs" and when I do it's night anyway so nothing to see. I also don't want people looking inside from the outside when it's parked somewhere.

Gas struts are absolutely necessary in my opinion.

A single side access hatch is really nice on the passenger side. You can build storage that is accessible from the outside through the hatch so you don't have to crawl up into the truck every time you need something.

Half barn doors definitely. I wouldn't want to give up the tailgate which is used as a table. I would not want a standard swing up back hatch which would get in the way while standing on the tailgate.

I have the anodized black exterior and like it but that's personal preference and definitely optional. It's holding up great after a year.

Have Jay install the fan as an option. It's very cheap for the amount of work it will take you. And he will do it right.

I got the clear plastic window option. 90% of the time they are closed and I crack the roof vent. I've only slept with them open a couple of nights. Seems like I camp where it's cold most of the time, but that will be dependent on how you use it.

I got an extra 1" of bed height which allowed me 3" foam mattress pieces. Definitely needed that. I can't remember if OVRLND is doing that as a standard item now. Check with them.
 

PirateMcGee

Expedition Leader
I think this is where I'm at:
-Rear half barn doors
-AF Cabover (seamless)
-Lift Struts
-Clear vinyl windows in popup
-Flip up hatch on passenger side (curbside seems best?)

Going to skip the other stuff (at least in my head for now)
 
Last edited:

aaaslayer

Active member
I pick up my build next week. Going on a 2021 Power Wagon and my options were:


-AF V.2 with the BOLTED cab over. Yes it appears it is bolted to the camper bottom portion. It is a solid giant stud that wraps all around the sides and front and rear and bolts to the frame. The Version 1 is welded. They sent me a video and it appears to be bolted.
-No windows, not needed. I got 2 flip up hatches on each side
-Vinyl windows on the tent
-Maxxfan I bought on Amazon and shipped to them for install. Reason being, I got a great price on a really nice upgraded 6200 model as opposed to the one they use for installs. Have them do the install, worth the money. I'm short on time I have a very hectic work life so having them install it was a no brainer plus warranty.
-Half barn doors with no windows. Reason being, I plan to weld my own bracing in the inside so i can mount rotopax on the outside. I don't do camping for more than 2 days so no need for a giant propane tank. I use the small disposable ones. If I truly need a giant tank I can strap it down inside the camper. I didn't want windows because I want to mount things to the flip up hatches and the rear barn doors so no windows plus I want full privacy and security over fragile windows.
-I got black cabover powder coated and silver anodized skins
-3rd brake light
-gas struts
-I added pin latch locks for both side hatches from the INSIDE. So I can lock the hatches from the inside as well. Say I want to open a hatch from the inside for a breeze, I don't have to go around the outside to unlock it. And when I want to close it and go to sleep, I can close it from inside and latch it. No need to step out of the truck to go outside and lock it. I highly recommend this. It's not listed on the site but Maggie offered the option when I inquired about how I would lock the hatches when I'm inside and don't want to step outside to go lock it from outside.



That's all the options I got. As far as plans for it, I already have a Bedrug I had delivered today. Full Bedrug that covers sides front and tailgate and gap between bed and tailgate. Next I need to get bulb seal and figure out how to fully seal up the gaps between the tailgate and bed because there are visible gaps and I can see a lot of dust being sucked into the bed from that area. I need to seal up most of the holes in the bed for water drainage and holes where you attach ratchet straps. I will use Gorilla tape since I don't want it to be permanent. I will leave open only the small little gaps up front for water drainage in case I ever plan on power washing the Bedrug.

I plan on doing the insulation next using 1" foam board and a layer of reflectix and finally coroplast white walls. For the ceiling I plan on using 1" foam board and wrapping it in a thin felt fabric I will likely buy at Joanns and attach it using spray adhesive. That will be my "headliner", done in sections so it almost looks like large pieces of tile up there instead of one giant continuous headliner. It's easier this way and I can remove the "panels" when needed to run wires for lighting or solar if I ever decide to do that in the future.

After the bed rug and dust prevention, and the insulation on the walls and ceiling, I plan to take care of building some DIY storage drawers, carpeted top, and a DIY bench that'll serve as both storage and a sleeping area in the downstairs section so my wife and daughter can sleep up top and I sleep downstairs when with my family. This bench will house my toilet, chairs, tools, kitchen/cooking stuff, camping gear. This will leave my bed empty for the most part to allow us to move around freely and not feel so cramped. Only thing that I intend on keeping in the bed, above the storage drawers will be my fridge, strapped down to the drawers using L track.



Those are my plans, hoping it can all come together in 2022. Definitely want to tackle the insulation and bedrug ASAP so I can take my family to see snow in comfort.



One thing I forgot to mention, a mattress! It's a queen size up there I believe, 60x80". I plan on doing that in sections. A section that'll fit nicely up there when stored away. Then when the bed is deployed, the other section of bed will be downstairs on top of the bench I will build. Those cushions will then be moved upstairs to complete the upstairs queen size mattress. And downstairs I'll use a rolled up mattress topper I'll keep stored inside the bench. i don't need anything too cushy downstairs as I am okay with sleeping on just a simple 3" mattress topper. I just want my wife and daughter to have the best comfort up top when they're with me.



You don't see a lot of talk about these campers on the forums or Youtube. I'm constantly looking on Youtube and forums for new reviews/pictures/walk arounds of their campers to get ideas and inspiration. Hopefully I can make time to do a build thread of my camper build when I get it. There should be a dedicated post to OVRLND Camper builds for inspiration. Plus I'm sure it'd be good for Jay and his shop. Would drive more traffic towards him I'd imagine.
 

aaaslayer

Active member

bgraboyes

Member
highly recommend side doors, at least for my use, i can open one and get into my cooler which i love. other side is still nice for general access.

also lift struts are a must if you plan on even just putting a solar panel up there. it amazed me how hard it was to lift the roof with just one panel up top. may even have to go to stronger struts if i put anything else up, esp in winter when the struts are more sluggish or if there is ANY snow!

i got front and rear windows which are always covered and i now mostly regret honestly. would leave em off if did it again and just put one sliding window in one of the side hatches just for light in the camper while hanging out (may still add this).

other options were the roof vent (worth it), solar pre wired (worth it IMO but not hard) and rear awning mount (dont use except when raining and is occasionally useful).

made my own thermal pack that can stay up when closed. similar to four wheel camper. this takes a ton of time if you are inexperienced at sewing like me, so be prepared.
 

crismateski

American Adventurist
made my own thermal pack that can stay up when closed. similar to four wheel camper. this takes a ton of time if you are inexperienced at sewing like me, so be prepared.
Do you have any details on what you did for the thermal pack? My wife is pretty handy with a sewing machine, I am betting that if I give her an idea of what to do she could make it happen.
 

bgraboyes

Member
Do you have any details on what you did for the thermal pack? My wife is pretty handy with a sewing machine, I am betting that if I give her an idea of what to do she could make it happen.
i ordered some evolution car cover fabric (found on ebay at a good price but no longer available when i checked today)

this is the fabric at another site....

inspiration and materials found here (great site if you haven't checked it out btw)
 

LB15

New member
I did:
- half barn doors, window on P side only and 3 hinges on D side door w/ no window.
How do you like having barn door window on only P side? I was thinking about doing this, but not sure how it would feel looking out the back when driving. Anything you would have changed about this after using it for awhile?
 

dstefan

Well-known member
I can barely see out of it at all even when all the windows are clean. The view of the road w/o the Dside window was tolerable its just that windows back there are too small IMO and high to be really useful for driving. Mirrors are fine on the road, and mirrors + backup camera are typically fine in town. You just have to be a bit more aware of the environment behind you before you get in the truck. I had a regular cap on a previous truck and the window was useful, but it was much larger, and important as that was BBC (before backup cameras!)

I currently have the window 100% covered all the time with Reflectix for Phoenix sun control and to avoid prying eyes. Except for one thing I’d prefer no windows. The barn doors are really stout and you can use them as swingouts to hold stuff. I had Jay add a 3rd hinge on my Dside to beef it more and I added some bracing. You can see pics over on the Ovrlnd only thread. I‘d sort of like to add some stuff to the Pside windowed door, at least on the inside, but the widow makes it quite a bit harder.

The one reason I think at least one window is good is safety when you’re shut inside. You can look out without opening the doors.

Mine is not a daily driver, which might change the logic for you. I’d think you’d want the glass lift up hatch if visibility out the back is the big concern, or two window, which wouldn’t be as good as the glass hatch door, but marginally better than one. It wasn’t for me and I’m really happy with the set up and the barn doors.
 
Last edited:

dstefan

Well-known member
Anything you would have changed about this after using it for awhile?
Forgot this. Yes, as far as the doors go.

You can specify which door has the keyed latches and opens first. I wasn't aware of that and had already mounted my fridge slide on the Pside to weight balance my gas tank. Jay called and asked which door I wanted latched and I didn't think the implications through fully. So my Dside door opens first with the latches, and to reach the fridge I need to pull down the top inner pin latch and open both doors. Not really a big deal at all, but would have been nicer to do it in reverse.

So, I’m just suggesting thinking through how you want your layout and which barn door side you want the easiest access.
 

surlyman

New member
I'm picking mine up Thursday, so I'll let you know which options I'm glad I got and which I might have done differently, though it may take a bit of living in to know. We went with flip up hatch on driver side so I can reach in to my cooler. I've got a Tacoma so reaching into the bed is easy. We're getting his flip down with an integrated flip out table on the passenger side and I'm having Jay mount our propane tank mount next to the flip down table so we can cook on the table.

My wife was concerned with feeling claustrophobic, so we put in a window in the rear hatch and next to the flip up hatch on the driver side.

Getting pretty psyched to pick it up.

Tal
 

Forum statistics

Threads
179,173
Messages
2,792,843
Members
214,131
Latest member
tyrusbass
Top