HPOP Reservoir... 7.3 psd

gtbensley

Explorer
Which, if you go back and read my comments, is exactly my position.

Bottom line, proper weight oil @ proper intervals and you will have great results.

Do note that I keep mentioning proper WEIGHT oil.

It makes all the difference, specific to topic, with regards to stiction, the so-called only oil related "failure" in the discussion.
Stiction always rears its head at cold start, in cold temps and/or when running oil that is run beyond its life.

In these situations the oil is thicker. This alone can cause stiction, even on brand new zero mileage injectors.


Fair enough. I have been running T6, may need to look into T5.
 

locrwln

Expedition Leader
I had an '02,F350, 7.3psd, 6spd, CC, LWB truck that I bought brand new off of the lot. I changed the oil every 5k or sooner until I installed a bypass system. I remember when the "to change the HPOP oil reservoir or not" got started on the forums and like this thread it was quite the debate on whether you should or not. At around 70k (which is about when this topic started and before adding the bypass system) I decided to try it and found pretty much the same thing as the OP. It looked nothing like what came out of the pan during the oil changes (I did them all). It seems; for whatever reason, that some 7.3's do a better job circulating that oil than others. Some see the tar and some don't. Not sure anyone ever figured out why. Like the OP, mine would run smoother and quieter after changing it out. Once I added the bypass system, both the engine and HPOP oil stayed much cleaner. YMMV.

Jack
 

Bikersmurf

Expedition Leader
I had an '02,F350, 7.3psd, 6spd, CC, LWB truck that I bought brand new off of the lot. I changed the oil every 5k or sooner until I installed a bypass system. I remember when the "to change the HPOP oil reservoir or not" got started on the forums and like this thread it was quite the debate on whether you should or not. At around 70k (which is about when this topic started and before adding the bypass system) I decided to try it and found pretty much the same thing as the OP. It looked nothing like what came out of the pan during the oil changes (I did them all). It seems; for whatever reason, that some 7.3's do a better job circulating that oil than others. Some see the tar and some don't. Not sure anyone ever figured out why. Like the OP, mine would run smoother and quieter after changing it out. Once I added the bypass system, both the engine and HPOP oil stayed much cleaner. YMMV.

Jack
I feel like I stepped into a hornet's nest.

I'll likely not change it super frequently... but I figure I'll change it at least a few times till it isn't so gross. If I had a boat load of money I'd have the engine rebuilt or sterilized... but since I don't, I'll have to settle for doing what I can to keep it happy. Since it seems to be happy, I'll stay the course and show it some care and keep on enjoying it.
 

TomsBeast

Member
"I feel like I stepped into a hornet's nest"

That's too bad, as I've had the same oil change experience. Many have. I personally sucked out some of the stinkiest, nastiest, stickiest oil I've ever encountered out of my 7.3's HPOP reservoir, particularly off the bottom (currently 196k, I've performed all my own oil changes for the last 40k miles of it's life). That stuff smelled as though it had been in there since the Jimmy Carter administration. It might be a case of the lower third of the reservoir not getting any circulation, and the oil in the heads, that pushes on the injectors, gets returned at a very slow rate. I dunno. I used Bill Hewitt's change method, suck the reservoir dry, refill with clean oil, rinse and repeat to get most of the oil that is in the cylinder head galleys.

Mine also ran noticeably smoother afterward. It ran smoother not because I wanted to justify my extra labor, but because it does.

Some guys across the forums argue "Ford says it's not necessary, so it must not be..." or "I'm a Ford trained technician, we never do this" and then there's those who proclaim "snake oil and ****************". You go, cowboy! I'm old enough to just laugh at that. My eyes and nose tell a different tale.

They can swap worn out injectors at 170k or 220k, it's a free country and your money/time.

As for myself, I'll do a little more maintenance on my rig to hopefully put off the several thousand dollar, PITA activity, particularly on a 7.3 van.
 

5spd97

Member
Nothing anyone has said thus far has changed my mind, I got crap out of my reservoir at 50k miles. What else do I need to know?
 

Bikersmurf

Expedition Leader
Automotive manufacturers are known for building things to last just past the end of the warranty. If you're content for it to last till it's 5 years old or has 100k miles... whichever comes first... then don't do anything extra. :D

Since my rig is 22 years old, has 17,000 hrs, and about 200k miles, I'll do what I reasonably can to keep it running for another 20-30 years and 300k miles.
 
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