I got here as fast as I could - '04 Suburban Z71

rayra

Expedition Leader
It's always seemed to me that the Z71 was layered on top of everything else. LS, LT, LTZ/Z71. I've never seen one without everything the LT has. I've never looked hard enough to find a definitive factory list of the full Z71 'kit'. It's both mechanical and trim upgrades. I'd thought the G80 was part of it on the 4wd trucks. I've also read the shocks with the Z71 had a bigger strut / bore and greater length / travel. I've just recently dumped ours on both our Z71s and didn't pay attention to it.

I have to say that the Level/Lift kit I recently added to teh Sub has worked out quite nice and the basic RoughCountry N2.0 shocks are a great improvement over the tired original shocks they replaced. I've only been on a few dirt fire roads so far, but the street handling has been great. They aren't stiff at all, the ride is very nice and comfortable and they suck up and control big bumps and taking driveways at speed with great rebound control. I look forward to hitting the desert with them. And I still have my original coils / torsion bars, 128k mi.
The missus just passed 170k mi on her Tahoe, recently changed shocks and stabilizer bar end links and it still rides like new. Almost entirely highway miles.

tbisaacs, the torsion crank is as easy as a 1/2" drive 18mm socket and a 1/2" breaker bar. You can do it without even jacking the vehicle up (although that makes it easier). You'll get about a 1/4" of nose lift for every full turn on the torsion key bolt. Don't max it out.
 

tbisaacs

Adventurer
It's always seemed to me that the Z71 was layered on top of everything else. LS, LT, LTZ/Z71. I've never seen one without everything the LT has. I've never looked hard enough to find a definitive factory list of the full Z71 'kit'. It's both mechanical and trim upgrades. I'd thought the G80 was part of it on the 4wd trucks. I've also read the shocks with the Z71 had a bigger strut / bore and greater length / travel. I've just recently dumped ours on both our Z71s and didn't pay attention to it.

I have to say that the Level/Lift kit I recently added to teh Sub has worked out quite nice and the basic RoughCountry N2.0 shocks are a great improvement over the tired original shocks they replaced. I've only been on a few dirt fire roads so far, but the street handling has been great. They aren't stiff at all, the ride is very nice and comfortable and they suck up and control big bumps and taking driveways at speed with great rebound control. I look forward to hitting the desert with them. And I still have my original coils / torsion bars, 128k mi.
The missus just passed 170k mi on her Tahoe, recently changed shocks and stabilizer bar end links and it still rides like new. Almost entirely highway miles.

tbisaacs, the torsion crank is as easy as a 1/2" drive 18mm socket and a 1/2" breaker bar. You can do it without even jacking the vehicle up (although that makes it easier). You'll get about a 1/4" of nose lift for every full turn on the torsion key bolt. Don't max it out.

Good to know. I was under the impression that you had to have a torsion bar unloading tool. But I guess that is what the breaker bar is for


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Tiki

Observer
295/70R17 tires of your choice, Tru-Cool 40K transmission cooler, Cognito goodies, BlackBear tune & and an e-locker (my suggestions)
 
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tbisaacs

Adventurer
295/70R17 tires of your choice, Tru-Cool 40K transmission cooler, Cognito goodies, BlackBear tune (my suggestions)

The cognito control arms are for primarily restoring some of the droop lost to lifting, correct?


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Tiki

Observer
The cognito control arms are for primarily restoring some of the droop lost to lifting, correct?


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The arms help correct the geometry after the keys are cranked. Without it you'll go through ball joints more easily. Cognito also makes some other good parts as well for the 99-06.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
The unloading tool is predominantly for removing / swapping the keys, but you put about the same effort in tightening it as you would the adjustment bolts directly. You can borrow the tool for 'free' (purchase price deposit of ~$60-80) from many chain auto parts stores. I borrowed one that was pristine new-in-box from my local Autozone when I did my Level/Lift.

Put a squirt of penetrating oil on the bolt threads and up where the bolt seats in the pocket on the underside of the torsion key and it will turn readily enough. Or jack it up by the crossbar under the oil pan so both sides of the front suspension droop and that will make it much easier. But take care to support the vehicle properly with jackstands. Don't just use a jack and wedge your way under the nerf bar to yank on the torsion bolt. Good way to end up crushed / suffocated. I found it easiest just to lay down, reach under and just pull the breaker bar towards me. Just mark the bolt head with a chalk mark pointing forward before you start cranking and you can easily keep track of the turns. It's really just a couple minutes effort.
 

ejwebb

Member
The Cognito upper arms are the way to go. Thay correct the balljoint angle when lifted. Allso get the Cognito steering kit installed at the same time.
 

justcuz

Explorer
Welcome to the club! In my opinion the Suburban is the Swiss Army knife of vehicles.
You can take your wife to dinner at the country club and the next day go camping, fishing, off roading to your hearts desire.
I have a 10 bolt Lock Right in mine after my wife destroyed the G80. Eventually it will be replaced with a 5 link 14 bolt and another lock right.
Other than a mild lift, good shocks and 285/75x16 tires, mine is pretty much stock. If you take good care of yours it has another 100,000 miles in it. Mine is a 2000 with 274,000 miles on it.
 

tbisaacs

Adventurer
Welcome to the club! In my opinion the Suburban is the Swiss Army knife of vehicles.
You can take your wife to dinner at the country club and the next day go camping, fishing, off roading to your hearts desire.
I have a 10 bolt Lock Right in mine after my wife destroyed the G80. Eventually it will be replaced with a 5 link 14 bolt and another lock right.
Other than a mild lift, good shocks and 285/75x16 tires, mine is pretty much stock. If you take good care of yours it has another 100,000 miles in it. Mine is a 2000 with 274,000 miles on it.

Are you using keys/spacers for a lift?


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Mushin_Noshin

Adventurer
Welcome, I got 320k miles on my 2001 Yukon xl 1500 and I beat the hell outta it. Work truck, family hauler, runs to the dump, camping, hunting, off roading, school pickups, trailer pulling, truck does everything well!

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justcuz

Explorer
Are you using keys/spacers for a lift?


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No, H2 rear springs and will install 3/4 ton front torsion bars. I looked up my original bars part numbers and they were the lightest spring rate bar GM made. I got junkyard Ford keys, but I want more spring rate up front. 3/4 ton trucks get a lift with 1/2 ton keys, so the Ford keys may be too much.
I have a 1993 Suburban also that I did this to and the bump stop on the lower control arm has 3/4" to 1" clearance.
My 2000 pretty much is almost touching the bump stops stock.
 

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