Ice, Ice, Baby 2023

Trail Talk

Well-known member
Considering a change of route!

Has anyone been up NWT's Heritage Route from Ft Simpson to Colville Lake? Déline is also on the way with Ft Franklin, historic site of Sir John Franklin's 1825-27 winter quarters.

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Timing for Aklavik would work much better next year when we could also catch the Muskrat Jamboree at Inuvik and get out before break-up.
 

NOPEC

Well-known member
Dean

When we did the Mackenzie, we hit Wrigley, Tulita, Norman Wells, Ft. Good Hope and of course Ft. Simpson. We were told to avoid going into Wrigley as it was known to be pretty sketchy, lots of small time thieves, etc. Everywhere else that we visited was great.

We actually got quite a few glimpses of the Heritage road and many of it's bridges from the Mackenzie as it runs right along the river in many places but of course, it was non-operational in the summer. We made quite a few inquiries while in the various communities about the road as we are always doing future trip research. Apparently, the Territorial Government is seriously pondering both pushing the road all the way to Inuvik and as well, making the entire road all season. That way, all of the Delta communities could be reached all year around by roads solely within the NWT.

The winter road apparently is kept in very good condition as it acts as a major artery for the entire area to supply goods and services that otherwise would have to be brought in by either summer barge or air, both options being big $$. So lots of outs and ins to/from all of the communities, new vehicles coming in, heavy industrial stuff going to and out of Norman Wells, etc., etc. resulting in the road being very busy.

Not much hard information here but just some general stuff that we picked up along our way. Looking forward to hearing all about your plans. Being huge "Franklin" fans, we are just a bit jealous!!! cheers Bob
 

Trail Talk

Well-known member
Thanks for the beta, very useful! Understand the resupply traffic, wonder if ice road speed limits makes the journey a bit less nail-biting than those Dempster gravel showers ;).
 

NOPEC

Well-known member
Thanks for the beta, very useful! Understand the resupply traffic, wonder if ice road speed limits makes the journey a bit less nail-biting than those Dempster gravel showers ;).

Actually, looking forward to another summer of gravel showers, soon..

I think it will be different than a pure ice road like the old Inuvik/Tuk route. From what I could see, this one is on mostly muskeg which I am guessing doesn't have the same concern with speed as pure ice so guessing the speeds will be right up there. As for enforcement, who knows? Also because of the temps, I suspect traction will be good enough without any added surface gravel, so your windshield might just survive but you will still have to be on the watch for all the shiny new F150s northbound!
 

Trail Talk

Well-known member
Countdown to less than two weeks until we launch our 2023 ice roads adventure. Will be on familiar ground until Fort Smith NWT, retracing our route from last year through Fort McMurray and Fort Chipewyan into Wood Buffalo National Park.

From there we head for new territory; the NWT Heritage Route: Fort Simpson, Wrigley, Déline, Tulita, Norman Wells, Fort Good Hope, and end-of-road at Colville Lake.

Gas is available at all of those communities except Colville Lake, but the hours of operation for many outlets is spotty, a couple of hours a day. We've taken on additional jerry cans to extend our range to 880 km, not counting idle time or Webasto consumption.

I'm leaving the sat phone out of our kit bag this time. Although each community has local cellular coverage, the spaces in between are out-of-service so we've acquired an inexpensive HT to monitor truck chatter as they report on road conditions, etc.

The one factor that nags is warming weather and its affect on road closures. The last few years have seen the Mackenzie Valley Winter Road (Wrigley to Colville Lk) closed early April. So our plan is to be within striking range of hard surface by Apr 1. Dedicated FB pages for travellers of the winter roads, plus NWT govt Twitter updates, "should" give us plenty of warning.

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DirtWhiskey

Western Dirt Rat
Following our ice road adventures last March (here) to Ft Smith via Ft McMurray, we started planning another northern ice road adventure to the isolated community of Aklavik in the Northwest Territories. We also hope to attend in the Muskrat Jamboree at Inuvik and other local celebrations held in March and April along the route.

The reason for beginning this thread now is to document a couple of must-haves to our rig in preparation for this journey. This week, tuned Radflo 2.5" piggy-back shocks were installed front and rear.

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And a long-standing need was solved with a custom spare wheel boom hoist. Both projects were fulfilled by Overland Explorer Vehicles at their production facility in Red Deer, Alberta.

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Stay tuned...

Amazing rig, amazing trip! I'll be following along. Can you tell me where you got that tire cover? Love that it doesn't cover the wheel center.
 

Trail Talk

Well-known member
We've been home a few days, just enough to string together our GoPro dash pics into a 5min video. You're welcome to take a peak.

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Our route for 2023 will come as a complete surprise to anyone who has been following this thread. We decided just days before departure to cancel the planned trip up the MacKenzie valley on NWT's Heritage Route. The reason was simple; our southern approach from Fort Chipewyan was already melting out and nighttime travel was now advised. After further study of the projected weather and historic closing dates, it finally dawned on us that we were at least two weeks too late. The risk of getting stuck on the wrong side of a closed winter road was just not acceptable.

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Saving Aklavik for next year, we needed another option. I had known about the Lupin mine road from Yellowknife to Nunavut for years. Billed as Canada's mac daddy of ice roads, 85% of its 600 km length travels over frozen water. But it is constructed by private contractors paid for by the mines; would they let us on?

Map copy.jpeg

Following emails and phone calls, an online safety course and orientation video, we were welcomed to the Dispatch Office of the Tibbitt Lake to Contwoyto Lake Winter Road Joint Venture in Yellowknife for a briefing before launching out on our own. Funded by RioTinto, De Beers, and Arctic Canadian Diamonds, this road involves millions of dollars and nearly 1,000 personnel for an intense eight weeks each year. During this brief window, the mines resupply for the upcoming year. Thankfully the pace had slowed since closure was due in a week.

This year the ice road extends to Ekati, short of the Nunavut border, but strong gold prices have rumours flying that they will reopen the furthest mines and thus extend the road possibly as early as next year. If we can solve our fuel situation, that would draw us back.

For our three days/two nights and 600 km travelled on the ice road itself, we consumed about 120 litres of fuel including around 7 litres a day in the Webasto either heating the cabin or engine. Temps reached a low of -29C (-20F) and a high of -15C (5 F) under a bright blue dome of high pressure.

But enough talk, have a look...

 
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Trail Talk

Well-known member
Thanks, I didn't want to barf everything out in one post and am glad for your questions :)

There are maintenance and trucker camps along the route but we weren't allowed to use them. Nevertheless, a few good pullout spots were suggested to us by dispatch. In one spot I put out triangles because it felt a bit close to the road.

It was strongly suggested before we arrived to have comms so I finally got a HT. It was especially useful for calling out our direction at the numbered land bridges, or portages as they called them, where the vast ice roads narrow considerably, and also listening for oncoming.

We overheard some amusing conversations between the convoys, dispatched in four-truck groups rigidly spaced 300m apart, on seeing an "RV" on their road. One leader started calling us out at the portages as part of his convey for a stretch, until we stopped for a break. All-in-all, they were an exceedingly professional and collegial fraternity.
 
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Trail Talk

Well-known member
Maybe 2006 some crazy Icelanders showed up. Their plan was to drive on the Arctic Ocean, Inuvik to Jamesb Bay but we had an unseasonally warm winter and they abandoned the trip coming home via the Rio Tinto route you show.

Them Icelanders are the last of the great explorers.

Something called the Transglobal Car Expedition was practicing for a circumnavigation of the globe in 2024 by driving a modified Ford pickup from Yellowknife beyond the mine road to Resolute, Nunavut. Somewhere it fell through the ice so they returned last year to pull it out.

The story was a great joke on the road and some truckers slyly wondered if we were part of their practice expedition, which was continuing this year from Cambridge Bay in a great circle up to the Bellot Strait and back.

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Trail Talk

Well-known member
- I think the chassis glycol heater for the cabin has been sorted out (?) how useful has that been.

There never was an issue with the performance of our ThermoTop, just persistent leaking of glycol. I'm happy to report that we had no leaks for the last two trips. Without this system, we simply could not boondock during our cold winters.

- heating is obviously super important, how well has the Webasto worked. And what do you have for back up ?

See above, but I always carry back-up. For emergency heat we have a Little Buddy propane heater that we used in the annex of our RTT. We also carry a backpacking stove that can burn all kinds of fuel if needed.

- How would you rate your chassis performance/suitability 1-10 ?

Before owning a camper, I wasn't a truck person. But how I love this truck! Can't give it a rating because I've nothing to compare with. Just can't think of anything I'd want to replace it with to haul around our cabin. The supercab is great for extra storage and occasional seating while keeping overall length down. Upgrading to Radflo shocks wasn't absolutely necessary but I'm enjoying the ride even more ;-)

- Likewise your camper ?

Of course, the camper is the reason for all of this. We really enjoy the room, both of us can work on tasks without getting in each other's way. Headroom is generous and I like to stand when I can after driving all day. Quality of materials and construction remains a constant source of pleasure as well. We are slowly making it our home away from home.

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Trail Talk

Well-known member
Here is a bit of a review of our gear following this year's episode.

We have become a Scepter brand ambassador if only because of the investment. Besides carrying two 20 litre and one 10 litre MWC (military water container), we had five 20 litre MFC (you guess). Two of the fuel cans sat in the holder and we were chuffed that the other three fit easily inside our rear ski box, along with 2 pairs of skis! On the water front (see what I did there), I mounted a marine hand pump on the small 10 litre container, which we keep on the counter (remember, we are winterized so our water tanks are dry) and refill as needed.

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Fuel-wise, we had sufficient to reach the end of the road and return BUT that would compromise our Bingo of 100km/20L. Hence, the 750km return to Yellowknife instead completing the road all the way to the Ekati mine gates. Future possibilities include a hitch-mounted carrier that would accommodate up to nine MFCs but I'm leery about that much weight hanging off the back. Still with fuel, I ordered Scepter's MFC lid wrench as soon as we got home. The wide temperature swings and resulting expansion/contraction of the cans left us struggling to open them more than once. Lesson learned. Our Scepter pour spout suffered a failure when the hose simply popped off, again I'd attribute this to the cold. Luckily it slid back on and did not leak but we had to be careful. I called Scepter's tech line once home to see if they had a recommended adhesive but they simply offered to replace it for free; nice.

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One gadget we brought was an Aranet4 carbon dioxide meter that we find very helpful at home. It was interesting to see the levels of CO2 inside the camper, both for air quality and condensation, and adjusted ventilation accordingly. Alas, because of cold temps outside, we spend more time in the yellow zone than I'd tolerate at home. Hey, bonus points if someone recognized the location of our wall art (edit: hint, its in a national park).

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Getting to the bottom of a more sensitive topic, we were both thankful for this hand-crafted toilet seat cover. I was particularly pleased not being forced to hold out in the mornings until my partner pre-warmed the seat for me ;-)

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The real drama didn't occur until our homeward journey. We returned to Hay River, intent on using the same boondocking spot in town as before. On the way, we diverted to the local nordic ski club to scope it out. Always amazed by the high class facilities that can be found in seemingly out-of-the-way spots and this was another example. Got to chatting with a course volunteer who was busy setting up for their annual race the next day. Hearing we were eager to try out their tracks, he suggested we ski till dark and perhaps even the next morning before races begin. To that end, he offered the parking lot to camp overnight with the bonus of an electrical connection. Yeah, I'm for that and indeed we enjoyed a marvelous sunset in near total isolation and silence, but for some acrobatic ravens that couldn't understand why we weren't dropping a few granola crumbs.

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Après-ski, I shut down the Webasto and plugged into an exterior outlet of the clubhouse to run our electric space heater. Big mistake; within an hour we could faintly smell sulphur, like someone had struck a match. I opened the battery compartment - the batteries were hot! Idiot!! I'm an electrical dummy but instinctively had never run the space heater on anything less than 30A and shouldn't have done so now. Put the Webasto back on and by morning you couldn't tell anything had happened; the batteries were cool and voltages were normal. I think we dodged a bullet there but full credit to the Victron AGMs; they are tough. I've since picked up a digital volt meter and will test all outlets before using in the future. Fun fact: all alarms on the Victron Connect app are deactivated by default.

Still learning...
 
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