I'M BATVAN! ...a 2006 E350 V10 DIY Ujoint Conversion

[Pinnacle Campers]

according to page 57 of the E350 owners manual (downloadable from the Ford site in PDF), you can program up to 4 remotes but all remotes must be programmed at the same time. Doesnt say anything about needing codes to be cleared.

I went back and looked at the shop manual for the 2006 E350, 501.14.12, regarding trouble shooting the keyless entry system does ask that you retrieve codes and if they do not pertain to clear/erase them.
This is the beginning of the troubleshooting sequence per the manual. For what its worth, the code was not pertaining to the keyless entry.

I need an ABS light reset, shopping around for a DTC tester with that feature. Like this Innova, https://amzn.to/2xQOLnQ

 

[another_mike]

I went back and looked at the shop manual for the 2006 E350, 501.14.12, regarding trouble shooting the keyless entry system does ask that you retrieve codes and if they do not pertain to clear/erase them.
This is the beginning of the troubleshooting sequence per the manual. For what its worth, the code was not pertaining to the keyless entry.

I need an ABS light reset, shopping around for a DTC tester with that feature. Like this Innova, https://amzn.to/2xQOLnQ

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I’ve had good success using some free software called forscan for PC. You can’t get into the PCM to modify anything, but you can get into other modules to turn on accessories you’d usually have to go to a dealer for. They have paid versions for mobile devices

 

[Vandit]

I need an ABS light reset, shopping around for a DTC tester with that feature. Like this Innova, https://amzn.to/2xQOLnQ

I got the Innova 3100 (mine is version d) a couple years back and it's been solid. It's worked on the wide variety of cars I've used it on and has a couple of more advanced features such as the ABS, like you mentioned. So far I've been satisfied with it for the money. It's also good piece of mind to have in the van on camping/road trips in case I need to diagnose the urgency of a CEL while on the road.

 

[Pinnacle Campers]

Because of my carelessness my poor BATVAN has received body damage.

I was backing up to my garage pushing a trash can on wheels with a piece of 19mm plywood on top. When the plywood hit the door jamb it remained flat and the edge of the board compressed the lower corner body work.
This is a really tough spot to fix, its completely boxed in behind. I considered cutting it out and replacing with another corner, cutting out the boxed area in the back, completely filling it with bondo (or epoxy/fiberglass).
Finally while waiting for the tint base at the Sherwin Williams paint store I saw a catalog with these Steck pull rods.

As you can see in the damage pic I have already drilled some holes. Using a combination of holes to relieve the stress in the bend and some strategically placed holes used for pulling, in theory, you can pull out a dent.
I was a fool to think I had the power to literally pull this dent out holding 4 of these in my hand. It would be nice to have a hydraulic frame rack at this point. You can see here, after the second pull. It looks like I went a little far on the first.
The effort here after putting the van in drive , is just very slowly ease off the brake , and listen for popping sounds while looking in the passenger side mirror.

The pull rods are lashed up with a couple straps so they all pull fairly consistently. The other end is tied to a E350 cutaway v10 front spring tower.

After numerous adjustments, and drilling more holes I was starting to see progress. Only once or twice I was able to let up the brake completely while pulling. I recalled a "used VW parts" shop owner I worked for in high school that took me out to show me how to "pull" the apron on a VW bug after a collision. He tied a tow strap to the bumper mount on the affected side and around a tree. He put it in neutral and we pushed it away from the tree repeatedly until the bodywork was within spec. I didn't see being able to push the van....

When I got close the flaking paint was becoming an obstacle. I cleaned it up with a flap disc. I could fine tune this with my hands and my own weight at this point.

 

[Pinnacle Campers]

Damn....

Other than having 45 holes to fill its looking pretty good.
I did consider welding these holes up but it could turn into a bigger problem, as the metal is thin, fatigued, and besides, I wasn't confident with my welding of such thin metal. So I stuffed the holes with Thixo thickened epoxy.

I dimpled the holes in a touch before hand, cleaned with hydrochloric acid, and squeezed enough in that it built up on the inside. This epoxy doesn't run, and within a few hours was hard as the steel around it.

So I hit it with an orbital sander and applied some bondo.

With some sanding a couple applications of body filler and some primer it looks like I'm ready to Raptor liner my lower rockers.

 

[Pinnacle Campers]

Seems that folks are hungry for build threads so I thought I would at least bump mine to the top.
Here are some pics after Raptor liner of the lower rockers.
Learning a lot still about using these types of finishes and spraying them.
I purchased a upol "tintable" 4L kit, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NOIKON8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
My local Sherwin Williams auto paint store, who I have been getting my tint from had warned me that when using metallic base tints with the bedliner type paints that the metallic tends to wash out a bit. He said that some of the shops even go so far as to over coat them with a regular polyurethane paint to keep the metallic on the surface.
I didn't bother with this feeling it was ok to have it wash out a bit. What I do wish that I had done is make the Ford factory color darker. As I learned with custom tint color Raptor on my kitchen box, the colors tend to come out lighter. I would have liked it a touch darker, I feel it looks good in the shade but a little light in direct sunlight, I think more than anything I wish it was flat. It seems to be losing a lot of gloss already.
I also realized recently that upol has two different thread types on the tops of their bottles, and neither match the local auto body shops can that goes on "shutz" (pronounced "shoots". Here I thought it was German) guns. I have had three different thread type guns now when buying bedliner "kits" that have guns included. Its a real pain in the ass.
On to the pics,

 

[Pinnacle Campers]

I'M BATVAN has never ending wants and needs....
I keep thinking about the motto "Do it nice or do it twice"...well I have done a couple things a couple times now.
One of the things that sometimes bothered me was the cut down fuel tank, at 28 gallons its a bit small for the thirsty V10. Other than being in the "backcountry" a few times where having to head to the gas station before I was done playing, I also dislike being on a road trip and having EVERY stop be at a gas station. Its nice to break away from the logo metropolis and just stop at a restarea or somewhere remote as we usually have everything we need.
This was actually more of an impulse buy than anything. The result of a thread on Sportsmobile forum where a member mentioned that http://www.aerotanks.com/ shipped their tanks out to customers for DIY. I was under the impression that it was a dealers only install thing.
I called and talked to Jake about their tank, freight cost, etc.
It was a bit over $1200 shipped and took about a month to receive on a pallet at a local terminal.
I had been suspecting my fuel pump was going out (another one of those things that probably should have been done when the tank was modded and 100K miles) so I was expecting to have to drop the tank anyways for a pump replacement so what the hell right?
I purchased a new fuel pump/hanger assembly, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y4ORW9U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here are the pics of the tank,

(above) The steel angle at the bottom attaches to the frame rail. The angle at the left and right attach to the body.



I have seen a lot of nice aftermarket tanks that I could call "a work of art" this isn't one of them. But you never see it so who cares right?
Its an aluminized steel tank, its a bit warped, I did get the skid plate option but it came welded to the bottom of the tank. A skid plate to me has separation from the object its protecting, but whatever, this has a "thickened" bottom.
There are two ports on top, for the push in twist vents in the OEM tank, mine had two but they were the same size and these two are different sizes. I don't think I have an "OBDII" connector on my OEM tank.
When talking to Jake on the phone, because I had received the directions for the rear mounted 40 gallon tank (wait they have an aftermarket 40 gallon rear mounted tank?), he told me that the little sheetmetal disc in the hardware pack was for welding over that port if you don't need it. I said, "You want me to weld on the tank?" I ended up using some epoxy on well prepped and cleaned surfaces.
I didn't use the supplied epoxy either.
They supply epoxy and recommend epoxying the fuel pump hanger down (per their instructions). Jake said on the phone he didn't even think you could get the seals anymore. Well my new pump hanger had a new seal, so I didn't epoxy mine down.
Another good reason for epoxying it down is because the top of the pump hanger is now well below the fuel height when full. In fact I drove 4 days this last week before my fuel gauge moved from "E"
Mine hasn't leaked yet.
Installation was straight forward, had to drill some holes above my head with hot metal shavings falling on my arms and face. The filler neck is a little cobbled together and their filler neck doesn't except the backflow prevention valve fitting in the tank correctly. I cobbled it into the reducer and hose/clamps they included but I think I would have preferred to reuse the OEM rubber hose/neck. The filler neck also doesnt allow much body to tank flex, like the OEM neck.
I think my specific installation issues have a lot to do with this tank being universal with many different years/fuels/models, etc.
I have had another (SMB) member inquire about the tank, mentioning that it hangs very low. I agree it hangs much lower, not any lower than the Tcase but it is more in the break over area. I don't push these limits so it being low doesn't bother me.
My biggest complaint is that its attached to the frame and the body, it seems like it would limit the flex between the two, and also put stress on the tank itself.
EDIT: The OEM (and ujoint tank) hang off the frame by cradles/straps which flex and don't transmit such stress to the tank itself.
What do you guys think?

 

[Pinnacle Campers]

Here is a pic showing how low it hangs, I guess it is a little lower than the t-case.

Also, a concern with the cut down tank, rusting from the inside, and "delaminating" which I hear happens to older e-series tanks.
After 5 years my OEM tank welds are clean as a whistle on the inside.
This tank is for sale btw.

 

[mk216v]

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I have seen a lot of nice aftermarket tanks that I could call "a work of art" this isn't one of them. But you never see it so who cares right?
Its an aluminized steel tank, its a bit warped, I did get the skid plate option but it came welded to the bottom of the tank. A skid plate to me has separation from the object its protecting, but whatever, this has a "thickened" bottom.
What do you guys think?

Wow <shocked>, sorry to see Brian. AeroTanks has been in business how long ???

 

[Pinnacle Campers]

That is something I forgot to add, I think I would still do it all over again.
You cant get this capacity tank anywhere else for this cost.
It would just be nice to know all of these nuances ahead of time.

 

[ujoint]

Yea not pretty but like you said, the only person that will see it is you.

Our tank doesn't attach to the body, just the frame.

 

[Raul]

"My biggest complaint is that its attached to the frame and the body, it seems like it would limit the flex between the two, and also put stress on the tank itself. The OEM (and ujoint tank) do as well but those are done by cradles/straps which flex more and don't transmit such stress to the tank itself. "

I do not know what the manufacturer recommends, but you may want to use rubber inserts, as washers, to allow some flexion of the assembly.

That van gets better every day.

 

[Pinnacle Campers]

Yea not pretty but like you said, the only person that will see it is you.

Our tank doesn't attach to the body, just the frame.

Thanks Chris, I edited my post, I thought that was the case.

 

[Pinnacle Campers]

"My biggest complaint is that its attached to the frame and the body, it seems like it would limit the flex between the two, and also put stress on the tank itself. The OEM (and ujoint tank) do as well but those are done by cradles/straps which flex more and don't transmit such stress to the tank itself. "

I do not know what the manufacturer recommends, but you may want to use rubber inserts, as washers, to allow some flexion of the assembly.

That van gets better every day.

Thanks Raul, I might do something like this. I would likely just need to change the nuts to nylock vs. crush washer and regular nut.

 

[Joeldc]

Great build! I really appreciate the attention to detail. Something to aspire to on my next project. It looks like your bumper and grill paint has lasted well. I've read all sorts of methods for painting chrome, but would like to hear about your process.