ImNoSaint's KLR650 Build

Trail Tech Equinox Lights

These lamps added a whopping 1052 lumens to the KLR's illumination, with 10 degree spot angles and adjustable output for each fixture. They burn at 6000 kelvin, making my stock head and high beam look like they belong on an old French scooter.

Wanting to avoid any extra holes or hardware, I eliminated the stock turn signals and replaced them with SW-Motech indicators on the hand guards, freeing up the space to mount these lamps. I wanted to maintain the break-away engineering of the stock signal posts but couldn't come up with anything that would be rigid enough to keep the housings from bouncing around, so I put together some hardware that fit perfectly into the turn signal post recess on the fairing.

The hardware used includes two stainless 1" fender washers with 3/8" centers, a smaller diameter stainless washer that works as a spacer in between, and a rubber 1" washer to allow adjustment while maintaining tightness.

I installed the Trail Tech wire harness and mounted the switch to the LH side of the instrument cluster.

Plane-Jane, waterproof switch, but I like how it integrates into the design of the rest of the cluster. The problem is I keep resetting my mileage when I think I'm turning off the lamps.

The lamps have three power settings that toggle through via a switch on the back of the housing. Once I got them mounted and aimed I was amazed at the output and depth of the illumination. My early morning trip through the mile-long tunnel at Zion Canyon showed their efficacy, reaching way beyond the headlamps. I'll have to set up my GoPro for a shot of that.

Everything installed without a hitch, the wiring connected to a Blue Sea ST Blade four-circuit common source and a Blue Sea 5-gang ground bus. Pics forthcoming next time I remove the seat.

Progressive Series 465 Monotube Shock

The original plan was to swap out the stock spring and go with a Top Gun 8kg spring upgrade to handle the load. That all changed when a) thinking all along that the adjustable stock spring was at its highest setting, but was in fact bottomed out with a broken pre-load adjuster, and b) when I tried to compress the Top Gun shock with a set of Tusk spring compressors for the install.

This is what FUBAR looks like.

I figured if the pre-load was busted at its highest setting - 5 - I could live with that being a fixed value, as long as the Top Gun spring compensated that stock spring's shortcomings. But, the Tusk compressors slipped because I didn't tape the spring where they mounted, and because there was no way in bloody hell they were going to compress that spring far enough because they weren't long enough to grab enough spring for the compression in the first place.

I was leaving the following afternoon for a 900-mile weekend ride. I ordered a Progressive 465 Series Monotube shock and had it over-nighted. Rocky Mountain ATV/MC delivered.

Threaded body for pre-load adjustment and a five-position rebound adjuster. Took me longer to dial it in than it did to install it.

The center stand handle makes it a little difficult to access, but it's certainly possible.

Out the driveway the difference was remarkable, combined with the Progressive fork springs. I rode 63 miles to Kanab where I dialed it in one last time with the bike fully loaded.

I have no baseline for the KLR or any other off-road bike in terms of handling. I've been riding street most of my life. So, when I felt the difference on the road with this set-up, I was giddy and surprised by just how crappy the stock suspension was. When I went off-road, I was ecstatic. Washboards all but disappeared, travel and damping poured on the control ad the foot pegs and handgrips.

I don't mean to overstate anything at the risk of hyperbole, but I can't imagine anyone not upgrading their pre-2014.5 KLR with this set-up.

Let the good times roll, indeed.

Blue Seat ST Fuse Box

I added a Blue Sea ST four-circuit blade fuse block along with a five-gang common bus to handle the 12V/5V outlet, the Trail Tech Equinox Lamps and the additional 12V outlet I'll install before winter.

The Blue Sea box is small enough to tuck under what little room is beneath the seat, but, like the battery and stock fuse block, it's still be at the highest point possible on the bike.

The box has a clear plastic cover protecting all the circuits. It's powered directly from the positive battery terminal. The common bus is pulled from the NEG post. I like a separate common to bring all the accessory leads to. Makes trouble shooting easier. I've done a similar set-up on my H3 with a 100A breaker in between the Blue Sea box and the battery.
I never hang out here, but ventured over to the Motorcycle section from the Toyota section. Seeing as how I've owned 3 Kawis, its about time.

Build is looking great. Love the updates.