Intake to snorkel on LS3, Toyota FJ60

Rexrome

Observer
Anyone have an application for a filter housing to hook up the snorkel to the intake? At the moment I just have it hooked up as the picture shows. Just wondering if anyone has already solved this problem and can provide some feedback otherwise I will have to make a custom application.

IMG_5558.JPG
 
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doug720

Expedition Leader
Mine is for a diesel swap, but I used a non-USA Toyota 60 Series canister filter. It looks like it may work with yours also.

You can use a 62 housing that will bolt right in with a modified top.004-resized.jpg001-resized.jpg006-resized.jpg004-resized.jpg001-resized.jpg006-resized.jpg
 

NCFJ

Adventurer
You will have to put something custom together with the set up you have now. It's pretty straight forward.

I use the stock FJ62 canister with my swaps. The air filter is huge and I come right off the top with 4" pipe. All the air you can use. There are snorkel kits available that direct fit the FJ62 so you'd be set if you went with this type canister.

13516613_1204196412944581_2474606119579803022_n.jpg
 

Rexrome

Observer
You will have to put something custom together with the set up you have now. It's pretty straight forward.

I use the stock FJ62 canister with my swaps. The air filter is huge and I come right off the top with 4" pipe. All the air you can use. There are snorkel kits available that direct fit the FJ62 so you'd be set if you went with this type canister

Stan thanks for the info, you don't happen to have one laying around do you?
 

BWilliams

Observer
Drive by wire or drive by cable? My drive by wire MAF is really touchy on my LY5 5.3L V8 swap. I had to use an air straightener in the intake tube and the volume of air required by the MAF ended up not being supported by my snorkel or stock FZJ80 air box.
 

MANUCHAO

Aventurero
Drive by wire or drive by cable? My drive by wire MAF is really touchy on my LY5 5.3L V8 swap. I had to use an air straightener in the intake tube and the volume of air required by the MAF ended up not being supported by my snorkel or stock FZJ80 air box.

That's interesting, I'm in the process of doing this with a 62 air box on a Gen III engine with a DBW set up.

Did you try a new MAF sensor?

After 100k+ miles I'm swapping all the pulleys, belts, and throttle housing...
 
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Rexrome

Observer
Drive by wire or drive by cable? My drive by wire MAF is really touchy on my LY5 5.3L V8 swap. I had to use an air straightener in the intake tube and the volume of air required by the MAF ended up not being supported by my snorkel or stock FZJ80 air box.

So the position of the MAF was important... I originally had the MAF, the pictured above, close to the filter and it was running rough and throwing MAF codes. I had to reposition the MAF closer the the intake and I had read that it was important that the MAF would not be located on the intake pipe where there was a bend. After I positioned the MAF closer to the intake I still had rough idle and codes. Then I removed the filter housing, which was a temporary, and replaced it with K and N filter that mated with the 4" intake pipe. The previous filter housing I had to reduce from 4" to 3" so the intake would take. After doing this the motor stopped throwing codes and ran smooth. The MAF was the original MAF that came with the EROD motor.

Once I finally hook up the snorkel to the FJ62 filter housing, which I just bought, I hope I wont have issues with not enough air required. Not quite there yet.
 

BWilliams

Observer
I wound up with just a k&n filter on the end of the intake tube. I have seen some solutions where people have made a custom air box fabbed out of aluminum with a snorkel attached. They've all been on drive by cable set ups though. I hope your build works out like you planned it.

I did try several MAF's. I knew MAF placement was important on the tube. By the way, I actually had a plastic MAF holder (how it connects to the tube) crack and warp. I wound up replacing it with a metal one.

Example of custom aluminum box.
IMG_3381.JPG
 

mep1811

Gentleman Adventurer
Snorkel

This is my set up to my snorkel . I am using a 6" Spectre air filter HPR9831 . The plumbing is a combination of Spectre adapters and Lowe's HVAC hoses.

Even with a pre-cleaner from, http://www.okoffroad.com/, the filter gets clogged up on long dusty roads. I carry a spare filter to change out .
 

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BWilliams

Observer
Yep, drive by cable does not seem to have issue with this arrangement. DBW and it's touchy MAF and associated fuel trims are difficult to work with to get right. The air has to flow through the intake just right.
 

Rexrome

Observer
I wound up with just a k&n filter on the end of the intake tube. I have seen some solutions where people have made a custom air box fabbed out of aluminum with a snorkel attached. They've all been on drive by cable set ups though. I hope your build works out like you planned it.

I did try several MAF's. I knew MAF placement was important on the tube. By the way, I actually had a plastic MAF holder (how it connects to the tube) crack and warp. I wound up replacing it with a metal one.

Example of custom aluminum box.


Box looks nice!

Yeah I am going to try and keep the drive by wire set up for now. I have an K and N in my rig at the moment and it is working great. MPG's suck, i think I have to tune it so I am talking to a dyno shop for tuning. At the moment it is driving nice with the K and N, drive by wire, and MAF positioned where it is at. I am not getting any codes. I am afraid that the problems might arise when I install the FJ62 filter housing to the snorkel.
 

NCFJ

Adventurer
I recommend that anyone using a pull out motor replace as many sensors s you can afford, before putting the motor in. If your knock sensors are under the intake, just replace them now when it is easier. The intake and throttle body gaskets should also be replaced along with oil pan, front and rear main seals as well.

I can not tell you how many swap threads I have read over the years, hundreds easily. I can not tell you how many times I have read about sensor or gasket issues after the swap is done and running for a little while.

MAF position is indeed important. If you go to the GM performance site and pull up an LS# crate motor and then pull up the instructions you will find dimensions and orientation for it's placement for that motor. It may not be your motor but it is a good starting point.

This is a good MAF mounting solution
https://www.amazon.com/Airaid-9641-Hitachi-Adapter-Plate/dp/B00HJDJGN8
61Q7x-N2rLL._SL1500_.jpg
 

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