Introducing the “NEW” Alu-Cab Canopy Camper

Redfernsoljah

GladiatorOverland
I just found this thread and I'm so excited to slowly read it all. Ordered my alu cabin through Tiny Rig about a month ago. Last I heard we were targeting a March install date. Anyone know about how long they'll have my truck in the shop? I live a couple of hours away so I need to plan. I have an email out but no response for about a week now. Busy shop, I know.

My truck is a 2016 Tundra doublecab. My order is pretty much barebones alu-cabin.

Tonight I got the final shipment of all of my electrical system! Honestly I'm a little overwhelmed but I've done a ton of research and was able to buy really nice products to make it easy. I found this thread looking for plans to mount my solar panel. Input welcome! In general I'd love input on everything. I've got a little experience with electrical wiring but I've never done anything this big or expensive.

Here's my power build so far:

Charge Controller and Battery Management - REDARC Manager30

Power Box - I haven't exactly sorted this out yet. The idea is that I'll build a wooden bench to hold everything. That way I can pull it out and lug it around for convenience and storage if it won't be in use in the truck for an extended duration. I'm thinking I'll include some USB outlets and 120VAC NEMA outlets on the side as well. Possibly a little fan to keep air flowing, but I'd wager that's overkill.

Battery - 12v 100Ah LiFePO4 from Battle Born (x1)

Solar Panel - 200W panel from redarc (x1)

Solar Panel Mounting - these little adhesive spoiler things from redarc. I found this thread looking for a better solution. I really want to mount via the roof rails. Any advice? I found the posts back on page 64 about using the M8 carriage bolts. But what is the actual mounting hardware to hold the panel in place? The M8 bolts have to attach to something, right? Or should I keep it easy and use the adhesive spoilers?

Inverter - Renogy 1000W 12V Pure Sine Wave Inverter with Power Saving Mode (New Edition)

Fridge - ARB 63Q 12V Portable Fridge Freezer

Other Stuff - The redarc manager30 and ARB fridge came as part of this kit from redarc.
Length of time in the shop is all dependent on what you want to get installed. I’d assume anywhere from 1-10days. Now that is far from the average. We had a more
Minimalistic install. Choosing instead to install many accessories ourselves. We had the dealer AVO install and seal the canopy. Install the 270 shadow awning, and help us do part of the Dickenson heater install. They did do a couple of extra things to help us out though. We where at the dealer for 3 days total. Of which they spent a part of a day I wasn’t there prepping ahead of time as they can if they have the camper and accessories on hand. Good luck. Best to talk to tiny rig and work out what you want done and length of time for install. They will be happy to help you.
 

Redfernsoljah

GladiatorOverland
I just found this thread and I'm so excited to slowly read it all. Ordered my alu cabin through Tiny Rig about a month ago. Last I heard we were targeting a March install date. Anyone know about how long they'll have my truck in the shop? I live a couple of hours away so I need to plan. I have an email out but no response for about a week now. Busy shop, I know.

My truck is a 2016 Tundra doublecab. My order is pretty much barebones alu-cabin.

Tonight I got the final shipment of all of my electrical system! Honestly I'm a little overwhelmed but I've done a ton of research and was able to buy really nice products to make it easy. I found this thread looking for plans to mount my solar panel. Input welcome! In general I'd love input on everything. I've got a little experience with electrical wiring but I've never done anything this big or expensive.

Here's my power build so far:

Charge Controller and Battery Management - REDARC Manager30

Power Box - I haven't exactly sorted this out yet. The idea is that I'll build a wooden bench to hold everything. That way I can pull it out and lug it around for convenience and storage if it won't be in use in the truck for an extended duration. I'm thinking I'll include some USB outlets and 120VAC NEMA outlets on the side as well. Possibly a little fan to keep air flowing, but I'd wager that's overkill.

Battery - 12v 100Ah LiFePO4 from Battle Born (x1)

Solar Panel - 200W panel from redarc (x1)

Solar Panel Mounting - these little adhesive spoiler things from redarc. I found this thread looking for a better solution. I really want to mount via the roof rails. Any advice? I found the posts back on page 64 about using the M8 carriage bolts. But what is the actual mounting hardware to hold the panel in place? The M8 bolts have to attach to something, right? Or should I keep it easy and use the adhesive spoilers?

Inverter - Renogy 1000W 12V Pure Sine Wave Inverter with Power Saving Mode (New Edition)

Fridge - ARB 63Q 12V Portable Fridge Freezer

Other Stuff - The redarc manager30 and ARB fridge came as part of this kit from redarc.
Recommend using a different inverter. Look at the Cotek SP inverters. Reason is if you ever upgrade to the RedArc Redvision you can control this inverter through the control panel. Double check with RedArc as functionality may be there in the manager 30 as well.
 

Redfernsoljah

GladiatorOverland
Looking for a better solution for water outlet. Ended up having ours freeze and crack the outside fitting. Note: I did consider this a possible issue and insulated the lines to the faucet. It only froze a few inches in. BTW: This was a test after all install was complete to see if this would be an issue. Thought was rather it fail now than on the road.

Ideas for possible solutions. Using same type faucet. Add a shut off at the tank and leave valve open at faucet to drain line every night. (Downfall: is this is something that takes a extra step and could be forgotten)

Another is to do what some others have done and just forgo an outside connection using a water safe hose. I don’t like this solution personally.

I am leaning towardsadding some sort of RV quick disconnect for a hose in the lower quarter panel. They made one with the hose built in. But it won’t fit from what I can tell in the lower quart panel. Would need to figure out if on pump some sort of cable unless it doesn’t discharge water without quick connect. Second would be to have a way to either push in pressurized airthrough port to clear line for storage. Or a hybrid of solution one to winterize system.

also instead of water pump did consider using onboard air to pressurize the water tank to create pressurized water without a external pump. Concerned about failures and leaning towards a pump. Will control pump power through RedArc Redvision and find a on demand pump that senses pressure changes to cycle on.
Anyone have any thoughts here?
 

Bushmaster5K

New member
I am going to have the shut off valve next to the tank for freezing temps. I'll have an RV 12"x18" self regulating heat pad on the tank. Later this year will be a pressure pump set-up also.

They make 3"x18" elbow heat pads for RV's that could work if raped around inside @ the exterior panel.

Good luck and safe travels.
 

Redfernsoljah

GladiatorOverland
I am going to have the shut off valve next to the tank for freezing temps. I'll have an RV 12"x18" self regulating heat pad on the tank. Later this year will be a pressure pump set-up also.

They make 3"x18" elbow heat pads for RV's that could work if raped around inside @ the exterior panel.

Good luck and safe travels.
Do you have a link to the pads you are using. Curious on their draw too, but can look this up myself. Did you put some type of switch on the pads? Although I wasn’t too worried about internal tank. I did consider this. Would be cool to use the RedArc to have it trigger on when the temperature sensor senses near freezing temps. Hmmm.

In the mean time Im looking at a rv style quick connect right now. Think it would help along with a valve at the tank. Going to run electrical soon as I get my bedrug in. Whenever they freaking get back from back order. I’ll drop some electrical at the tank and for a 12v pump as well for flexibility if I go this route. Though about using left over pex too to make the tubing more robust. Might end up also keeping some spare parts to fix an issue like this if it happens on the trail.
 

Redfernsoljah

GladiatorOverland
After a lot of research shortly after my last post. I did find some anti-freeze heating cable 12v that theoretically could be used to wrap around the pipe near the bulkhead in hopes to keep it form freezing. It’s only 15watts maximum so power draw is right over 1amp. Compared to the lads that’s over a 3 amp difference. I do not foresee myself with camper being insulated and heated to have to also heat the tank itself. I might put a pad on there to CMA in case I find myself in Arctic conditions in the future. I also am going to try to install a quick connect. See attachment. I think this would be even more ideal than the faucet that comes with the kit.

Progress as I was able to seal up a few things like my gutter for the awning. Got to paint my chimney for the heater, and started to put together runs of wire so I can start wiring up the electrical for the RedArc system. Might go ahead and work up a system that will be plug and play with goose gear bulkhead. Going to use the tracks to build a battery box and hold components. Just need to verify a few things. When I get my solar panels put in I should be at 100%. I think the neatest little project I’ll be working on weather allowing. Will be adding a small motorcycle style usb plug (waterproof) up inside of the shadow awning. I’ll put it on its own switch as well. So I can just hand up my string lights and have an on and off switch without having to run a separate cable. I think it will work out great. And hardest part will be drilling through to run cable inside. I’ll post some pictures on my Social Media when I’m done with and happy with the mod.
 

Attachments

Bushmaster5K

New member
Do you have a link to the pads you are using. Curious on their draw too, but can look this up myself. Did you put some type of switch on the pads? Although I wasn’t too worried about internal tank. I did consider this. Would be cool to use the RedArc to have it trigger on when the temperature sensor senses near freezing temps. Hmmm.

In the mean time Im looking at a rv style quick connect right now. Think it would help along with a valve at the tank. Going to run electrical soon as I get my bedrug in. Whenever they freaking get back from back order. I’ll drop some electrical at the tank and for a 12v pump as well for flexibility if I go this route. Though about using left over pex too to make the tubing more robust. Might end up also keeping some spare parts to fix an issue like this if it happens on the trail.
I ordered the RV heat pad from Amazon. The first one was not self-regulated (on @ 45 deg, off @ 65 deg). I'll post some links tomorrow.
 

Aleja_333

Member
Anyone looking for a GP factor Alucab window? Check my post on the Expedition Equipment classified forum.
 
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Redfernsoljah

GladiatorOverland
Anyone looking for a GP factor Alucab window? Check my post on the Expedition Equipment classified forum.

What made you change your mind? Curious, personally I am afraid to loose the extra storage room. As well as some security concerns, though it would ease some border crossings.
 

Aleja_333

Member
What made you change your mind? Curious, personally I am afraid to loose the extra storage room. As well as some security concerns, though it would ease some border crossings.
Nothing made me changed my mind. I did the window kit and absolutely love it. This was an extra one I had. Some other member already snagged it.
 

seatoskyexplorer

New member
Question for folks that have the Blue Sea Weatherdeck 8 switch breaker panel: the wiring diagram it comes with is for the 6 switch model, which only has one positive wire. In the diagram it shows the single positive wire fused between the battery and the panel. Since the 8 switch panel has 2 positives (one for each group of 4 switches), did you run 2 fuses or join the wires to a single larger gauge wire and then use a single fuse?
 
Question for folks that have the Blue Sea Weatherdeck 8 switch breaker panel: the wiring diagram it comes with is for the 6 switch model, which only has one positive wire. In the diagram it shows the single positive wire fused between the battery and the panel. Since the 8 switch panel has 2 positives (one for each group of 4 switches), did you run 2 fuses or join the wires to a single larger gauge wire and then use a single fuse?
If there are two feeds, I would use two smaller fuses instead of one bigger one. Then you reduce the chance of drawing too much current through one smaller feed wire and not blowing the fuse because it’s sized to handle the current for both feed wires and all 8 switch circuits.

It’s also a little more granular, where if you blow one fuse then the other four switch circuits continue to work. Since this appears to be a panel of circuit breakers, I would assume each circuit itself is protected by tripping it’s own breaker.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

fourfa

Observer
Question regarding the Alu-Cab rear tire mount: would this aux fuel tank work? Full of diesel (~7lbs/gal), maybe 90 lbs? Typical 33" spare might be ~85 lbs; perhaps fine with just the tank, but I'm guessing the combination could be too much for the system?
 
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