Jeep XJ Westfalia Camper Build - The "Jeepagon" V2

jakegrovephoto

Active member


Got a chance to pull the engine today. Everything went pretty well, but that passenger side E12 bolt to the block from the bellhousing took a good minute to budge.

Onto the torque converter and then to reinstall the new engine. I also ordered the viper coil parts to use on the cherokee as a solution to the coil pack mounting difference between the 2000 XJ and 99 XJ heads.

 

jakegrovephoto

Active member
Put in the new torque converter today while the engine is out. Also removing and redoing all of the wire harness looms and masking tape over the full new looms.

Going overkill to keep these weather tight and ready to go decades more. Inspect all insulation, 3M heat rated tape down to the connector, new loom over and then friction and masking tape over that. Pulling all the connectors to the trans and blasting with dielectric grease.

Last is to give everything a good clean and paint the engine bay then prep for the new engine to go in.
 
Last edited:

jakegrovephoto

Active member


New ATK engine is in!

Too busy working on it to post but have snapped a few pictures along the way I’ll post up when it’s done.

Went overkill on the cleaning while it was apart. Lowered the transmission and stripped/primed/bedlined the full underbody and engine bay. All aluminum mounts, heat shield and covers scotch brited and polished. All steel parts stripped and repainted with VHT engine block paint. Flameproof paint on the header. Grade 8 bolts to replace everything in the engine bay.

Good week off school/work and a lot done so far!
 

jakegrovephoto

Active member



Some slower progress, but side tasks between work and school the past few days.

Wire wheeled the full intake to shine it up and cleaned inside thoroughly with dawn soap and then throttle body cleaner until the oil grunge was gone.

Water Pump and Thermostat on and gaskets up as well as the oil pan, new oil pump and pickup tube, and oil filter housing + new pressure sender unit.

Waiting for the marshalls hardware to open Monday so I can get a few last bolts the Depot didn’t carry that I misjudged the size on (valve cover and manifold).

DEI exhaust wrap on the Dorman stainless header (1999 model so it fits the new head perfect) that I bought last March as part of my exhaust overhaul.

Transmission Solenoids to try and remedy my occasional P0740 code and electrical/lockup transmission issue. Bought through Cascade transmission parts as an A-340 (Toyota’s Aisin Warner Transmission - “AW4”) and got the whole set cheaper than many places sold an individual. Have talked to other forum members that say that part number works just fine on the XJ AW4.

Came to the reality that I work all weekend and have some finals projects due at school the coming week so the jeep may sit until I can finish assembly and do the break in later this week.
 
Last edited:

jeepdreamer

Expedition Leader
Interesting the solenoids are the same from Toyota to jeep. I realize Jeep borrowed it but you’d “think” it would have had some changes due to different engines, diff gears, tire size, etc. but cool to know they should work.
 

jakegrovephoto

Active member



Cranked out some time on the XJ again last night after school. Went non stop through 2am but it’s most of the way there with gaskets, seals and torqued down bolts.

Few electrical things left and then to prime the oil pump and do the engine break in.

Didn’t clean the alternator up as I’ll be replacing it with a 160amp Durango upgrade before long...
 

jakegrovephoto

Active member


Pictures have slowed since I’ve been working off and on to finish everything. Was hoping to get this done before I hit finals weeks...

Anyway made a tool out of 1/2” stock round bar to fit the oil pump and prime it. Just kept spinning and spinning, pumpingair and no oil pressure. So... dropped the pan again and packed the gears with Vaseline. Buttoned the pan back up and instantly it primed with the drill tool.

Everything cranked fine, double checked grounds and they were good. Sounded like it wanted to go but couldn’t get it to start last night. Thinking fuel may not be primed enough since I pulled the fuel rail and injectors to clean/inspect. That or the coil pack isn’t snug to the block and causing a lack of spark.

Will grab a fuel gauge today to check pressure while cranking and do the viper coil to make sure there is proper spark. At that point it has power, ground, fuel, spark and should be good to go
 

jeepdreamer

Expedition Leader


Pictures have slowed since I’ve been working off and on to finish everything. Was hoping to get this done before I hit finals weeks...

Anyway made a tool out of 1/2” stock round bar to fit the oil pump and prime it. Just kept spinning and spinning, pumpingair and no oil pressure. So... dropped the pan again and packed the gears with Vaseline. Buttoned the pan back up and instantly it primed with the drill tool.

Everything cranked fine, double checked grounds and they were good. Sounded like it wanted to go but couldn’t get it to start last night. Thinking fuel may not be primed enough since I pulled the fuel rail and injectors to clean/inspect. That or the coil pack isn’t snug to the block and causing a lack of spark.

Will grab a fuel gauge today to check pressure while cranking and do the viper coil to make sure there is proper spark. At that point it has power, ground, fuel, spark and should be good to go
Triple check your grounds. They can be a pita.
 

J!m

Active member
And that header wrap- it accelerates hot corrosion on the headers... I used it on my head pipe and continued under the drivers seat on my series in Africa and I had exhaust breaks from keeping it too hot.

And the V8 in Mikes 101FC had the headers wrapped (that truck didn’t go to Africa) and they basically dissolved inside the wrap. 304 stainless won’t last much longer... 316, if they even use it, would hold up better.

You may have to remove the wrap.
 

biggn235

New member
I remember following that other guys build on Jeep Forum way back in the day. Very cool to see another build like this, will definitely be following.
 

jakegrovephoto

Active member
And that header wrap- it accelerates hot corrosion on the headers... I used it on my head pipe and continued under the drivers seat on my series in Africa and I had exhaust breaks from keeping it too hot.

And the V8 in Mikes 101FC had the headers wrapped (that truck didn’t go to Africa) and they basically dissolved inside the wrap. 304 stainless won’t last much longer... 316, if they even use it, would hold up better.

You may have to remove the wrap.
Interesting, will think more on this. Heard mostly of complaints in high moisture environments and that’s not much an issue in So Cal. Haven’t heard issues on the heat cracking so soon but makes sense.

My wrap stops where the header meats the front pipe so it will dissipate heat at the flange and below. This model header has two below styled connectors to supposedly expand and shrink with heat to prevent cracking. My last exhaust setup (factory) went bad at the front pipe just up from the cat due to a crack and then snapped hanger
 

jakegrovephoto

Active member
Well... found the no start issue.

Timing, spark, gas, ground. Had to be one.

Gas pressure sat at 45-50psi in the rail

Viper coil installed and gapped spark plugs again as well as check all connections.

Cleaned up and resecured grounds.

And the last little (big) thing that made the difference: CPS sensor timing!
Never worked with the Coil pack styled CPS on the 2000. Forgot about the little alignment hole under the cap. Set engine at TDC compression stroke on #1 and lined up the two holes while working it into the oil pump gear.

And that’s that. Started up first crank and ran strong. 20min break in period at 2000-2500rpm, ran at 210* and ~60psi oil pressure. Runs well, slight valve tick I will have to look over to make sure clearances from ATK are all good and no clearance issues.
 
Top