jeepdreamer
Expedition Leader
That's great Jake... Now you can finally get moving in a positive direction again. Congrats!
Jeep XJ Westfalia Camper Build - The "Jeepagon" V2
- Thread starter jakegrovephoto
- Start date
jakegrovephoto
Active member
Fitted up a soft top setup for running without the camper top in wet weather.
The initial one is of a single layer of 18oz pvc coated vinyl. With sewn in YKK #10 vislon zippers.
The concept is to pull the outer zip material tight with it sandwiched by a bolted down aluminum flat bar and the angle steel roof edging. We will see how bad the flapping of the material is with this thickness and concept, but is meant more as a rainfly top for wet weather, not a daily setup.
The zipper stitch is then folded and heat welded in a manner that the seam is not exposed to water and gives the zipper a cover flap as well.
The vinyl company did send me a yellow roll of heavy material instead of my correct order the first time and let me keep it once the correct black vinyl was sent. If flapping is that bad I may heat weld this layer to the other in addition to the possibility of aluminum cross bellows or making a zipperless winter top that just pulls tight from the aluminum edging.
XJOverlander
Member
might want to add some block brackets to tie into more bungs on the block. stinky fab, more, and brown dog all have a similar setup. Thats the way im gonna go when i do my head eventually.
Did you get the XWAR from 4wp?
Id stay away from ATK, when i asked about a new head for my 00 if its the tupy head , they said we dont know cant promise anything. I even asked if they build their strokers with known bad heads and their replay was we use what heads we have. their answers scared me away for sure.
Did you get the XWAR from 4wp?
Id stay away from ATK, when i asked about a new head for my 00 if its the tupy head , they said we dont know cant promise anything. I even asked if they build their strokers with known bad heads and their replay was we use what heads we have. their answers scared me away for sure.
jakegrovephoto
Active member
Did not get the XWAR from 4WP... looking back would have but was told it already had the 3 year ATK. I had a similar response in the tupy question from ATK. The specific 4WP rep I called was more knowledgeable and I decided to buy the 99 block so that I would have the 630 head instead of another 331. Part# ATK-DA37.
I did buy a set of brown dog brackets that will be in use with the new block for better distribution. Tim over there said that they should work just fine with my current MORE mounts.
jakegrovephoto
Active member
Yanked the tank today and pulled the old pump assembly and rotted filler hoses.
Gave it a thorough flushing and cleaning, now letting it dry to get all moisture out over night. New sending/filter/pump unit ready. Filler hoses will arrive next week.
Also the replaced warranty ATK engine came in Wednesday. Might be a few weeks until it’s in. School’s been busy and only have a day off a week before work. On a good note found another truck buddy who has class the same days so not stressed on a ride. All is beginning to come together
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jakegrovephoto
Active member
While the tank was off went ahead and welded and cleaned up the quarter panel cut and fold. Always sketched me out welding body sheet that close to fuel lines...
Welded all together then ran a line of seam sealer to keep it airtight. Considering adding a rubber drain plug through the layers, but access from the inside is easy enough I may just flush it with shop air if it ever gets water.
jakegrovephoto
Active member
Got a day off and dropped the replacement engine in this afternoon. Turns out one of the guys at browndog mispoke and their brackets did not fit with the MORE mounts I already had. Called them and will be getting a set of their mounts at the kit price. Bummer but can’t do much else at this point.
Anyone want to buy a set of MORE bombproof mounts? Looks like they’ll go on CL otherwise and lose a few bucks there.
Also got the new injectors into the cleaned up fuel rail and coated the intake with some VHT.
jakegrovephoto
Active member
New engine is up and running, started up first crank and break in process went smooth. 20 min at 2000-2500rpm, VR1 high zinc 10-w30 racing oil for break in on the flat tappet. Drain and new filter after. Vr1 for the next 500 miles with a freshie filter then planning to switch over to mobil1 10w-30. 91 octane.
Runs well, but now having an idle issue. Starts up at 1250rpm, backs down to 750-1k. Idles pretty smooth, once given gas up to 1.5-2k and let off idle drops to 300-400 and has that dying out sound like a carbed setup with the knob turned out too much. Foot on the gas and it'll run smooth at 750, but that would mean driving with two feet...
Compression is close 150psi #1-6. Gas pressure reads to factory spec with the new pump/injectors. Already cleaned IAC, TPS, MAT. Checked MAT and it gets around 11k ohms at 70* for temp resistance: pcm supplies it 5V as spec. New tubing and fittings to egr valve and vacuum pump. Thinking it has to be a vacuum leak or sensor issue.
Correct me, but thinking the CPS should be fine as timing is correct and easy start. No CEL. That would leave a faulty TPS, IAC (which could be limiting airflow into the TBI at idle) or MAP. Will do the propane vacuum leak test and grab a vacuum gauge in the next few days to rule that out.
Any other thoughts? Not taking it back onto the road until this gets situated.
Runs well, but now having an idle issue. Starts up at 1250rpm, backs down to 750-1k. Idles pretty smooth, once given gas up to 1.5-2k and let off idle drops to 300-400 and has that dying out sound like a carbed setup with the knob turned out too much. Foot on the gas and it'll run smooth at 750, but that would mean driving with two feet...
Compression is close 150psi #1-6. Gas pressure reads to factory spec with the new pump/injectors. Already cleaned IAC, TPS, MAT. Checked MAT and it gets around 11k ohms at 70* for temp resistance: pcm supplies it 5V as spec. New tubing and fittings to egr valve and vacuum pump. Thinking it has to be a vacuum leak or sensor issue.
Correct me, but thinking the CPS should be fine as timing is correct and easy start. No CEL. That would leave a faulty TPS, IAC (which could be limiting airflow into the TBI at idle) or MAP. Will do the propane vacuum leak test and grab a vacuum gauge in the next few days to rule that out.
Any other thoughts? Not taking it back onto the road until this gets situated.
scrubber3
Not really here
Make sure you have no air bubbles in the coolant system. After that, check your ECT. I've heard of a few having this problem. To be honest, I'd just install a new ECT sensor. It's likely your problem. The ECT likely isn't telling your engine it's warmed up and is staying in a constant open loop thus causing your issue. Or there isn't any coolant getting to the sensor.
jakegrovephoto
Active member
Thanks for the insight. Coolant was burped as we did the break in with a buddy watching it at the front and the heater on. New Coolant temp sensor in september when I overhauled cooling and reads good. Will be working on it next few days and double checking all else.
jakegrovephoto
Active member
If it’s not one thing it’s another :smh:
Pulled it back down and redid the intake gasket. The back dowell was installed too short or pushed to far by the engine builder so it barely catches and takes an extra eye to get it seated. There was a crease in the gasket provided as well, so replaced a new fel-pro. Vacuum issue is better now, but injector problems started up at the first restart.
P0201 upon ignition. Open circuit on injector #1. Injectors were just replaced. Swapped injectors #1 with #2 and code remains 0201. It’s an internal issue between either wiring or the signal from the pcm. Replaced worn injector connector and it has 0 ohms/makes contact from the injector connector to the pcm connector on both pos and (-) sections of the circuit as it should. Noid light does not flash upon running as it does on #2 - #6, i.e. open circuit that never grounds out.
Will try to pull a voltage signal from straight out of the pcm terminal to determine that the pcm signal is faulting. Don’t understand the odds of a internal pcm failure after the intake job. An old wire in the rail harness that got damaged from moving around I could understand, so will do more hunting back.
SOLVED: Jeep P0201 Injector Circuit PCM Repair
Pulled it back down and redid the intake gasket. The back dowell was installed too short or pushed to far by the engine builder so it barely catches and takes an extra eye to get it seated. There was a crease in the gasket provided as well, so replaced a new fel-pro. Vacuum issue is better now, but injector problems started up at the first restart.
P0201 upon ignition. Open circuit on injector #1. Injectors were just replaced. Swapped injectors #1 with #2 and code remains 0201. It’s an internal issue between either wiring or the signal from the pcm. Replaced worn injector connector and it has 0 ohms/makes contact from the injector connector to the pcm connector on both pos and (-) sections of the circuit as it should. Noid light does not flash upon running as it does on #2 - #6, i.e. open circuit that never grounds out.
Will try to pull a voltage signal from straight out of the pcm terminal to determine that the pcm signal is faulting. Don’t understand the odds of a internal pcm failure after the intake job. An old wire in the rail harness that got damaged from moving around I could understand, so will do more hunting back.
SOLVED: Jeep P0201 Injector Circuit PCM Repair
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jakegrovephoto
Active member
I understand the ease of access to test the pcm. But why do you say not very expensive? The cheap reflashed ones I’ve found online have quite the sketchy reputation ($200-400). I thought dealer had to reflash a rebuilt one. I’m in CA so I am almost sure I’d be screwed at smog for using a pcm that isn’t programmed to my mileage/vin no? I could easily get one for $50 at the yard, but I’d be afraid it would fail smog on the obd check.