Jeep XJ Westfalia Poptop Camper Build - The "Jeepagon" V2

jakegrovephoto

Active member
On a good note, the PCM for these are very easy to test and replace, and aren't very expensive.

I understand the ease of access to test the pcm. But why do you say not very expensive? The cheap reflashed ones I’ve found online have quite the sketchy reputation ($200-400). I thought dealer had to reflash a rebuilt one. I’m in CA so I am almost sure I’d be screwed at smog for using a pcm that isn’t programmed to my mileage/vin no? I could easily get one for $50 at the yard, but I’d be afraid it would fail smog on the obd check.
 

jakegrovephoto

Active member
Went ahead and started a Jeep forum thread on the whole P0201 deal.

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f20/2000-jeep-xj-p0201-open-fuel-injector-circuit-4349675/#/topics/4349675

At this point I’m pulling 14v from the ASD which supplies the Positive power in the injector setup. This flows all the way up to the pcm terminal and receives no ground after that. Thinking it can only be a shorted pcm circuit at this point.

Since Posting, an in-depth website writeup has been written on the P0201 Repair. Find that here!
 
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scrubber3

Not really here
I understand the ease of access to test the pcm. But why do you say not very expensive? The cheap reflashed ones I’ve found online have quite the sketchy reputation ($200-400). I thought dealer had to reflash a rebuilt one. I’m in CA so I am almost sure I’d be screwed at smog for using a pcm that isn’t programmed to my mileage/vin no? I could easily get one for $50 at the yard, but I’d be afraid it would fail smog on the obd check.
Compared to many PCMs in other vehicles, these are cheap.

I believe you'll be fine getting one from a salvage yard as long as it's of your year model with federal emissions. Also, the same transmission/drivetrain.
Make sure it matches up!
 
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jakegrovephoto

Active member


PCM driver replacement is complete.


Fixed the code and idles smooth with no miss now.
Jeep PCM P0201 Repair Write up

Came close to pulling a spare pcm off another 2000 auto, but it turned out to be CA with the precats, where as mine is a federal with the main cat. Found a sheet with all the part #s and options to keep on hand.
 
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jakegrovephoto

Active member


Piecing together the Dana 30 build to add some beef to the front end.

Artec Industries Full Truss w/ Currie JJ UCA
Artec trackbar bracket for one-ton steering
Ruffstuff Bombproof Diff Cover
Rubicon Express LCA mounts
JCR C Gussets
Spicer Ball Joints

Only thing I’m not doing strength wise is the inner sleeves. Still unsure on the strength gains and drilling into the current tube to plug weld in place.

All parts will be going on a ‘92 HP XJ Dana 30 to swap out the beat up LP. Gears will be 4.10 down the road with the potential of a locker. For now keeping 3.55. Running 32’s should be plenty strong.
 

jakegrovephoto

Active member
I just nabbed a HP 30 from the junkyard when I was building my xj. Got one from a TJ 4cyl and it had 4:10s already. Was cheaper than the gear set and was factory correct set up. Just a thought for ya.
I’d just read up on the 4 cyl gearset and contemplated it. But... the c bent on the low pinion and the local parts yard only had the 3.55 so rather get it on the road and solid. I’m waiting to come across a 4.10 LSD 8.8 rearend then I’ll just have to regear the front to match.
 

jeepdreamer

Expedition Leader
I’d just read up on the 4 cyl gearset and contemplated it. But... the c bent on the low pinion and the local parts yard only had the 3.55 so rather get it on the road and solid. I’m waiting to come across a 4.10 LSD 8.8 rearend then I’ll just have to regear the front to match.
Troll through the junkyards looking at explorers. If you can keep a list (by year) of what the build sheet lists LSD as, you should be able to find an 8.8 easy. You'll need to buy a companion flange to let it work with your driveshaft and get the parking brake cables to adapt... If you want a P-brake.
 

jakegrovephoto

Active member
Troll through the junkyards looking at explorers. If you can keep a list (by year) of what the build sheet lists LSD as, you should be able to find an 8.8 easy. You'll need to buy a companion flange to let it work with your driveshaft and get the parking brake cables to adapt... If you want a P-brake.
Yep Door code D2 is the 4.10 LSD. Check every explorer each time I’m at the pick and pull. Planning to pull the complete foot e-brake and mock that up, that way if I fit a foldable bench seat into the front it’ll already be out of the way. Truss and brackets, C-Clip eliminator and Chromoly shafts, rotors and it’d be solid.

But that build will come at another time
 

jakegrovephoto

Active member


Got the artec truss + trackbar bracket tacked on as well as the RE LCA mounts. Mounts are getting burned by a welder tomorrow, then I’ll be tackling the truss and C-gussets myself taking some more time with the heating/cooling period.
 
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