JK130 | Custom TDI Diesel Parallel Hybrid Jeep Wrangler with composite camper build.
- Thread starter straypoet
- Start date
straypoet
Active member
Correct, I decided not to use the stock filter housing, and heat-exchanger because I don't like using a coolant to oil heat exchanger (bad experience with a failed exchanger once) and also, I think it will clean up the install. I used a relocation plate that bolts to the stock housing location on the TDI. It has a check-valve to keep the system primed.
straypoet
Active member
Ordered 4 Fox Coilovers: $2,000.00
2.5x12" part #980-02-249
They are emulsion (as I don't need or want the remote reservoirs for the kind of exploring I do.)
I am going coil overs because they can be rebuilt and are simpler than the existing setup.
I will still need the springs, mounts, and some front bump stops.
Likely these won't be actually delivered until the late spring or early summer, but I wanted to get them ordered so I have them available.
I am adding the cost of the coilovers to the 'Second Phase' category on the first post of this thread, as it really isn't necessary (as a previous poster noted) to do this for the conversion itself.
Next to order the weld-in mounts and then later, get the springs. (Time to start thinking spring rates)
2.5x12" part #980-02-249
They are emulsion (as I don't need or want the remote reservoirs for the kind of exploring I do.)
I am going coil overs because they can be rebuilt and are simpler than the existing setup.
I will still need the springs, mounts, and some front bump stops.
Likely these won't be actually delivered until the late spring or early summer, but I wanted to get them ordered so I have them available.
I am adding the cost of the coilovers to the 'Second Phase' category on the first post of this thread, as it really isn't necessary (as a previous poster noted) to do this for the conversion itself.
Next to order the weld-in mounts and then later, get the springs. (Time to start thinking spring rates)
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straypoet
Active member
The beauty of this setup, is that if I ever decide to add them, I can just get the cap, hoses and reservoirs and upgrade to remotes.
I have just never been in a situation offroad or on road where I thought: "My shocks are fading" and I have always used the regular jeep suspension design with an emulsion shock.
I will even admit that the shocks on this jeep have never been replaced. They are factory, and I have never felt the need to replace them, as they still hold oil, and work as designed.
Leaving the suspension stock would probably be fine with me, but going to a coil over simplifies the setup, and allows me to rebuild with readily available seals when needed.
But yeah, if I am wrong, and I decide to add them later, I will just have to pay the $ and upgrade.
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straypoet
Active member
I have seen people mount their shocks upside down, and my bike has inverted front forks, so same idea there; but since the nitrogen is above the oil, doesn't that mean no dampening for the first 10% or so of the stroke? Also, doesn't that mean that the valve plates are forcing nitrogen down into the oil at each compression?
As long as one isn't using all of the stroke on an emulsion shock mounted in the normal way (can-up) ; the valve plates would always be in oil, and then less likely to have inconsistent dampening?
I admit I am not a shock expert. Can you enlighten me?
Your oil level should be about 60% up the body. So at ride height the piston will be in the oil. You want the piston in the oil to provide damping. You need the most damping from ride height to bump.
Ok course once you start to push them, the oil turns to foam and it doesn't matter where in the stroke you are.
Ok course once you start to push them, the oil turns to foam and it doesn't matter where in the stroke you are.
straypoet
Active member
Ordered a Dometic CFX3 75 fridge. $1125
I have been looking around for deals, and got this one for a good price, lets hope it is a good unit. I kept debating between this one, and the ICECO VL75 which basically looks like a rebranded version of this one. There are good and bad reviews for both, and so maybe it is crapshoot, but I finally decided on this one.
I am buying now because I saw a good deal come up, so it won't be used for a while, but good to have it now.
I will add the cost to the build tally on the first page.
mog
Kodiak Buckaroo
I have the 95-liter version of that (Dometic CFX3 95DZ) and love it. Very reliable and great build quality The lids swap opening sides if needed.
straypoet
Active member
I uploaded a new Youtube video:
Getting closer and closer.
JK130 Part 4, March 2022 , Balance Shaft Delete, Intake, Engine Work
Getting closer and closer.
JK130 Part 4, March 2022 , Balance Shaft Delete, Intake, Engine Work
straypoet
Active member
New youtube video:
JK130 Part 5, April 2022 Engine In the Frame.
I am making progress, a bit more slowly than I would like, but I have been doing some traveling and enjoying other toys, so not all bad.
JK130 Part 5, April 2022 Engine In the Frame.
I am making progress, a bit more slowly than I would like, but I have been doing some traveling and enjoying other toys, so not all bad.
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straypoet
Active member
straypoet
Active member
Finishing up the intercooler, bought $200 worth of parts which include the intercooler tubing, and also the inner fenders.
Still here, still plugging away.
hoping to have the engine running and the vehicle moving on its own power in a few weeks.
Still need to order a few things.
Making another order shortly.
Still here, still plugging away.
hoping to have the engine running and the vehicle moving on its own power in a few weeks.
Still need to order a few things.
Making another order shortly.
Dan Grec
Expedition Leader
Please keep posting the updates, I'm following along and can't wait to see more photos and videos of this thing in action.
You're building the Jeep that many of us have dreamed of for many years!
-Dan