Just need a little boost for the fridge...

Dipodomys

Observer
Hi all, I've looked through a bunch of the threads and just need an answer to a basic question. I already have a great dual battery setup in my Tacoma, and use an Odyssey PC1200 aux battery to power my Engle MT45 fridge. When stationary, the battery can run the fridge for about 24 hours before fully discharging. I'd like to provide some supplemental power to add to that number and to account for hot days. All I really want is a "trickle charge" solar setup to provide some supplemental charge to the aux battery. I'm looking for a simple setup. What I envision is setting up camp, rolling out a solar panel on the roof, and then plugging it into a hard-wired "trickle charger" and then not worrying about it. I'm not looking to power much beyond the fridge. What would I need?

I'm a big fan of quality, so I'm not afraid to spend a little money to get a professional, reliable, and clean setup. Any and all suggestions would be appreciated, or just point me to a thread that you think might work. Thanks in advance!
 

Lucky j

Explorer
I have a battery set-up in my yj and that battery can run my fridge for about 4 days w/o triggering the voltage safety and I'm still able to start the jeep w/o hesitation. Arb 35 qt and gr34 battery.
 

SnoViking

Adventurer
I ended up picking up a flexible 100w panel off of Amazon for about $175 and a pretty basic solar regulator for about $20 (also amazon).

In my previous setup; I wired the regulator to my second battery and then powered the fridge off the regulator's accessory plug. When I got to camp I threw the panel out in the sun and plugged it into the regulator. I usually went 2 days without ever worrying about it.

In my current setup; I only have my main chassis battery. I wired up the regulator right to my Blue Seas fuse panel and then run the fridge off the accessory plug off the regulator. I then use the panel when ever I'm parked. Since it is my chassis (only) battery I do keep an eye on it and I have the solar regulator set to shut off the fridge at 12.2V (I think....). But I also carry a small battery jump pack just in case.

Here's the panel, regulator, and jump pack I picked up. I recommend all of it.

Panel: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DXYNGA0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - I also purchased the 4 year extended warranty for the panel through amazon.

Regulator: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018ICLC3K/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Jump Pack: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019DVZXTE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

SAE Connectors (a few): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MYDR17Q/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

"Solar" wire.... aka landscaping wire: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00378K8Z4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

All and all, under $350 and you're set.
 

elmo_4_vt

Explorer
Yeah, a normal deep cycle battery should run the fridge for at least 3-4 days. One of your truck batterys should be used for the fridge, then connected to the alternator and other battery when the truck is started.

As far as charging without the truck started, I really like the CTEK line of chargers and controllers. Like this. There are ones that are chargers from an AC outlet, and ones that act as a solar controller, and ones that will switch between the best source.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
Got to be smart about the heat / sun, too. Shading the fridge without obstructing its necessary airflow. Shading the vehicle or at least its interior. Block / prevent as much of that external heat as possible.
 

Dipodomys

Observer
I might add that a lot of the controllers out there seem to be designed for stationary applications. I worry that they won't hold up well in a vehicle, particularly of the offroad variety. Anyone have suggestions for a decent controller, designed and constructed for more rugged applications?
 

Dipodomys

Observer
Got to be smart about the heat / sun, too. Shading the fridge without obstructing its necessary airflow. Shading the vehicle or at least its interior. Block / prevent as much of that external heat as possible.

Agreed, and I think I have that covered. It's in a white insulated camper shell, with good ventilation. The fridge itself is in the Engel insulated cover. I think I've done about all I can do in that respect.
 

Dipodomys

Observer
I ended up picking up a flexible 100w panel off of Amazon for about $175 and a pretty basic solar regulator for about $20 (also amazon).

In my previous setup; I wired the regulator to my second battery and then powered the fridge off the regulator's accessory plug. When I got to camp I threw the panel out in the sun and plugged it into the regulator. I usually went 2 days without ever worrying about it.

In my current setup; I only have my main chassis battery. I wired up the regulator right to my Blue Seas fuse panel and then run the fridge off the accessory plug off the regulator. I then use the panel when ever I'm parked. Since it is my chassis (only) battery I do keep an eye on it and I have the solar regulator set to shut off the fridge at 12.2V (I think....). But I also carry a small battery jump pack just in case.

Here's the panel, regulator, and jump pack I picked up. I recommend all of it.

Panel: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DXYNGA0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - I also purchased the 4 year extended warranty for the panel through amazon.

Regulator: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018ICLC3K/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Jump Pack: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019DVZXTE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

SAE Connectors (a few): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MYDR17Q/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

"Solar" wire.... aka landscaping wire: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00378K8Z4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

All and all, under $350 and you're set.

How long have you had it, and has it help up well? I worry about some of the controllers that are clearly designed for stationary applications.
 

Dipodomys

Observer
I have a battery set-up in my yj and that battery can run my fridge for about 4 days w/o triggering the voltage safety and I'm still able to start the jeep w/o hesitation. Arb 35 qt and gr34 battery.

If you're in Quebec, you're probably operating in cooler conditions than where I run my vehicle in California and Arizona. There's no way I'd get even two days out of my battery down here. I need mire juice!
 

Ducky's Dad

Explorer
If you're in Quebec, you're probably operating in cooler conditions than where I run my vehicle in California and Arizona. There's no way I'd get even two days out of my battery down here. I need mire juice!
Mine is an Indel B 50, mounted in the back seat of my white truck, in an insulated Waeco transit bag, behind tinted glass, powered by two new G34 Optima Marine Dual Purpose house batteries, driven by a 270 amp alternator on 3/0 cable. In the late summer in the So Cal and AZ deserts, I get less than 24 hours when prechilled and set to freeze. That's why I'm adding solar.
 

jonyjoe101

Adventurer
You get about 1 amp for every 20 watts of solar.

I was running my 12 volt fridge edgestar fp430 (set to 40 degrees) nonstop 24/7 off of a 120 watt panel and a 75 ah agm battery. The panel produce about 6 amps in full sunlight. My fridge consume 25 amps in a 24 hour period, which was acceptable on a 75 ah battery but not good on your 42 ah battery. Its a good quality battery but just not big enough.

All you need is
1. a solar panel (size depends on your available space),
2. a cheap 10 amp wincong pwm controller (about 15 dollars),
3. a 90 volt 30 amp combo meter (about 20 dollars on ebay) this led meter you connect between controller and battery and tells you the battery voltage and how much amps your panel is charging. This way you dont guess if your panel is working and giving you max performance.
Connecting everything is fairly simple, solar panel wires go into charge controller (pv in) , wires from charge controller (batt) go to the battery (or to combo meter then battery) and you connect your fridge to the battery.

My recommendation is at least 100 watts, anything less and you wont be getting enough amps to charge your battery and keep up with the fridge. You need a big boost, like in the 6 amp range especially with the aux battery your using which is only a 42 amp hour capacity, which you need to charge quickly when you got good sun.

With a bigger battery 100ah range, you might not even need solar if your not stationary too long. Also with a bigger battery you can get away with a smaller wattage panel.
 

Dipodomys

Observer
You get about 1 amp for every 20 watts of solar.

I was running my 12 volt fridge edgestar fp430 (set to 40 degrees) nonstop 24/7 off of a 120 watt panel and a 75 ah agm battery. The panel produce about 6 amps in full sunlight. My fridge consume 25 amps in a 24 hour period, which was acceptable on a 75 ah battery but not good on your 42 ah battery. Its a good quality battery but just not big enough.

All you need is
1. a solar panel (size depends on your available space),
2. a cheap 10 amp wincong pwm controller (about 15 dollars),
3. a 90 volt 30 amp combo meter (about 20 dollars on ebay) this led meter you connect between controller and battery and tells you the battery voltage and how much amps your panel is charging. This way you dont guess if your panel is working and giving you max performance.
Connecting everything is fairly simple, solar panel wires go into charge controller (pv in) , wires from charge controller (batt) go to the battery (or to combo meter then battery) and you connect your fridge to the battery.

My recommendation is at least 100 watts, anything less and you wont be getting enough amps to charge your battery and keep up with the fridge. You need a big boost, like in the 6 amp range especially with the aux battery your using which is only a 42 amp hour capacity, which you need to charge quickly when you got good sun.

With a bigger battery 100ah range, you might not even need solar if your not stationary too long. Also with a bigger battery you can get away with a smaller wattage panel.

This all sounds good. I want to make sure I have a panel that provides enough power to meet my needs. A larger battery really isn't an option with my space constraints. I like the setup I have, but you're right, it's not a monster battery.
 

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