Actually, I'd not overlook a poly block for some applications, particularly lighter trucks.
Cast blocks have their place, but in some applications they can actually be worse than poly blocks. The main issue I see is that the most cast blocks are huge, and the hollow void is often too large for the spring pad size of half ton or smaller trucks. The block ends and sides overhang the spring pad on the axle, rather than resting on it. This leaves all the load going through the center web of the cast block, with the axle kept from rocking only by the u-bolts. Under load, or wheel hop, the u-bolts are prone to stretching, and the block becomes loose, with the axle rocking until something gets spit out our destroyed.
Poly blocks, as well as welded and billet blocks have flat surfaces that interface with the smaller spring pads of lighter trucks to prevent this rocking. Though I wouldn't consider poly blocks for a 3/4 ton or 1 ton truck, I wouldn't hesitate to use them on a half ton or lighter pickup. Glass filled nylon is the normal material for a "poly" block, and glass filled nylon has excellent compressive strength, which is very applicable to how a lift block is used.
If you're looking for a slight boost, I'd also consider something like ORD's "zero rate add-a-leaf" as a good idea. It's basically a ~1" block that you bolt to the spring pack with the spring center bolt. Keeping the block short is always a good idea to reduce the amount of axle wrap and stress that goes into a spring pack, particularly with the 2 leaf packs of today's half ton trucks. Bolting the block to the pack just adds that much more protection against it getting spit out if something goes wrong.
Finally, the idea that a lift block must be tapered is just plain wrong for most applications. If you drop one end of the driveshaft via a parallel lift block, and do nothing to the powertrain angle, the u-joint angles on both ends change by the same amount, which is exactly what you want. Rotating the pinion up via a tapered lift block will actually induce a torsional vibration due to mismatched u-joint angles if the powertrain angle is not also changed. So where are tapered blocks actually a good fit? On vehicles with a short driveshaft, the operating angle of the u-joints becomes extreme, which causes inertial vibration of the driveshaft. On these vehicles, the transmission crossmember is dropped, which angles the transfer case output down, reducing the angle at the upper end of the driveshaft. A tapered axle block rolls the pinon up, reducing angle by a matching amount at the lower end of the driveshaft. The pinion angle is kept in line with the powertrain, and the overall operating angles of the u-joints are reduced. This keeps the inertial and torsional vibration to a minimum.
Great video about driveline angles for a one piece driveshaft: