not for use in traditional way a tommy lift is used but for use as "the" raise and lower rack that you typicaly see on back of Expo rigs which carries spare tire(s) and Aux. transport (aka, motorcycle or ATV etc.)
. Seats x2 Out of a Mitsubishi Eclipse around 2008. Should be way more comfortable.
. Diesel fired coolant Heater.. Ex military unit from mid 1980s M939. NOS. Two settings..... 8000BTU and 15000 BTU. Found a Control Box. Need harness and pumps (fuel and coolant). Same thing in todays market for an LMTV runs about 3 grand and made by Webasto. Mine is made by South Wind (Div. of Stewart Warner). Am about $300 in it so far. Expect 400-500 once I find harness and get fittings etc. Plan thus far is two parallel loops that can be combined or run separate. Loop FRONT.... for engine preheating and cab. Loop two for Ambo Box heating via either floor radiant or Heater core(s) and fans. Thought is to use wood and or waste fuel oils via an *Arctic Military Multifuel tent stove when can watch / feed it... and diesel fired when can't (asleep for example) . Discussion on this topic at http://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/188678-Heating-an-Ambulance-Box?p=2414997#post2414997
Fwiw, at roughly same price, Sportmansguide has what I think is a newer version of that Hunter Stove.
Either one will roast you inside a camper whats small enough fitting on M1078 truck.
Thank you. Am well aware of that model and specifically do NOT want that one. It does not allow for solid fuel burning (Wood etc). Will be extending chassis a little to accommodate a 14.5 foot camper box.
update on continual parts collecting that will build this rig around:
. Committed now to starting build with used LP appliances (overstock, removes from camper rebuilds, parting out etc) just for ease. I really do want to go eventually more off grid/borrow ideas from nature like say solar powered electrolysis of urine produces hydrogen gas.. which can be used to cook. but for now.. LP appliances like typical RV's. Cook tops, Heaters etc. A fellow in a neighboring block is parting out a motor home so will get most everything else from him. For now:
.... RV LP "Instant" hot water heater- Used. Cost me about 1/3rd of the cost of a new one that sits around 600$ . Unit sits in a cut out in side of rig same as would the typical RV water heater. Basically like
will install a feed back loop into plumbing though. This loop; after opening a flow past valve, will create hot water flow thus causing tankless water heater to kick on.... but instead of wasting water down the drain while waiting for it to get hot.... the loop will instead send the water back for another round. Idea is- at far end of hot water feed pipe; were it usually is dead ended, instead via a loop, send it back to either the water holding tank and/or just before the 12v water pump. You use this to let the water loop thru till it is at an appropriate temperature for the task (shower, wash dishes etc). Once at temp you simply open the desired faucet. Might use Showermi$er product or just do my own with a sharkbite temperature gauge and a flow past water valve.
. Gear ratios- well..... was intending to just go to taller tires..... but got a fairly good deal on new 3rd members from Bryce so just going to go with the higher speed 3rds. They have not arrived yet but Bryce is out of town and has promised to get me the lease used to mate with my NOS axle discussed earlier in this thread
Expense of building this truck (esp. after unexpected Tranny Failure) ate my planned funds to build a garage (don't even have a carport or Lean-too) so building a rolling tool box. Will be so damn happy to get my tools out of all the nooks and cranny's stored in various tiny sheds. Stowed like that has made my tools not accessible. Is like not owning any..... driving me nuts. A cheap car Tarp tent garage thingy will be the Awning/Enclosed space to work under. Will somehow attach this to roll out from side of Ambo Box like an RV Awning.
After looking for the right deal for over a year finally got a Tandem Axle trailer used 17' flat bed trailer. Deck above wheels (not low boy). Had to be that to fit an 8' box on the top. OK price sorta.. needs 4 new tires.... and axle's rims are obsolete.... easy fix..... just more $$$. For something that wont be on the road much..... think I'll just go with semi hard to find obsolete tires to go with Obsolete rims. Comes out more expensive in long run....... mayyyyyybe....... but it is what it is.
Was going to mount to this trailer my already owned Cargo box of back off a 1990's era moving truck..... or one from back of another truck (which ever cheaper to get mounted on trailer) and in process found.. ANOTHER AMBULANCE BOX..... 14foot. Pre-wired for a Generator.. fully shelved with more space to stuff tools than the White House basement. And it is cheaper in the long run than a cargo box. So in a few weeks that will get mounted to trailer. Then can slowly start packing it with my gear.
Finally some good weather. Starting back to work on this toolbox on wheels and run into a snag. The benches inside have a good bit of water inside them. Could this be built up condensation? Leaks? The scene lights on the sides were removed and there is a metal plate covering them but I can tell they are not sealed well at all. But..... there is no water anywhere else though. Rear windows are broke out but covered. Front cab to truck window/crawl thru for now only has a plastic bag taped over it. What to yall think? Was hoping to start clearing out my sheds with tools randomly stuffed everywhere and put into this ambo today to start organizing my tools
... and run into a snag. The benches inside have a good bit of water inside them. Could this be built up condensation? Leaks? The scene lights on the sides were removed and there is a metal plate covering them but I can tell they are not sealed well at all. But..... there is no water anywhere else though. ...What to yall think? Was hoping to start clearing out my sheds with tools randomly stuffed everywhere and put into this ambo today to start organizing my tools
Just talked to Roger who sold me the box and damn.. he had leak issue exactly the same even before taking all the lights off. He thought it was from the lights and is why removed them and put plates over the holes. He did silicone the plates he installed... just not the outside edge where noticeable, but next to the actual opening on the body where the light once was. He said he did find while working on it that the dept. that maintained the truck had siliconed the shiat out of the little clearance/running lights at the top. hmmmm..... roof leak? but still weird.. ONLY inside the benches. Well he did say also inside the area where the AC is installed as well.
Quick Ambo question on this box about exterior storage doors. How do you tighten a door mechanism? Inside one of my doors the mechanism is loose so the door does not close tightly. When closed it is about 1/4 inch more to go before tight. Other doors have play (lot less though) but close tight just fine. Any suggestions?
Ambulances doors use a Nader bolt for the locking mechanism to latch onto, just like automobiles do.
If you insert the correct size star tip bit into the bolt, you can loosen it just like any other bolt. Then you can move it in or out to adjust the spacing between it and the door latch when it's in the closed position. Trial and error will tell you when you have it right.
Will get a pic. No there is not an upper and lower. Just one in the center of this door in same location as the latch. Could be wrong but it appears to be pretty much just like the one I linked to above. This ambo box is of pretty cheap design compared to the others I have seen.
Had a little better weather.. but not the key to compartment doors to get to get inside the one with a list of build data off of... so not sure the year..... but obviously it is old enough to NOT have double latches to meet the newish safety latch regulations...... there is only one latch per door. Manufacture is Frazier out of TX.
Didn't take a pic of but the rubber on the lip of door opening is in great condition so that is not it. Just that latch you see on side of door has a lot of play in and out
In that case, the only thing I can suggest is take the inside panel off and take peek inside. Maybe you'll find an adjustment of some sort, and if not take a couple of pictures anyway. Also, what does the striker plate look like? This is the piece in the door jamb the bolt engages when the door is closed.