Locker options: What am I looking at cost-wise?

[Martinjmpr]

Okay, so although my strong inclination is to keep my Taco as stock as possible (for a number of reasons) I have recently realized that a few very mild modifications would probably be a good idea.

The only time recently that I've ever gotten "stuck" (temporarily) was going up Red Cone, at a sharp left-hand turn between some trees. The trail makes some big whoop-de-doos over the roots and I was hung up - one wheel on each axle off the ground. Since I have open diffs at both ends, this left me spinning my wheels, literally. I was eventually able to let the truck roll back and then bounce my way across but it did make it clear the dangers of having open diffs on a trail rig.

My first thought was a limited slip. I had a limited slip on my Montero and on my Ranger (2wd.) Problem here would be the tendency of the limited slip to engage when I don't want it to (like on a slick surface.) On both the Ranger and the Montero I had times when I was driving on smooth, packed snow when the rear end "kicked out" for no reason.

On the Monty this resulted in a low-speed accident that I was powerless to stop. Damage was minor but it was a PITA to deal with. On the Ranger it happened in the middle of the busiest street in Laramie in the middle of the day, and by sheer, blind luck, there was no accident despite the fact that I was in the left lane and spun completely around into the oncoming traffic lane (traffic was light, fortunately.)

At the time I didn't understand what caused these incidents (and it wasn't until recently that I even connected the two incidents in my mind since they happened about 4 years apart) but on reflection I now realize that they may have been caused by the LSD kicking in unexpectedly.

So, my first thought was that whatever system I get, I want it to be something I can control. Since I don't have a TRD I don't have the locking rear axle.

Here are my questions, then:

What options are available for a controllable locking or limited slip diff? Does anybody make an aftermarket controllable LSD? I know ARB makes the air locker, does anybody make an aftermarket E-locker?

I know someone's going to suggest finding a wrecked TRD and transplanting the axle. That's not an option I'm interested in. I have no desire to put junkyard parts of unknown progeny in my truck (this is my DD, not a dedicated trail rig) and I don't have the tools or the ability to do an axle swap by myself, so whatever will be done will be done by a competent shop and will come with a warranty of some kind.

If possible, I'd like to keep this to an under $1000 project. Is that realistic? My understanding is that the ARB locker itself is not terribly expensive but that it requires the air compressor mechanism which doubles the cost. On the plus side, doesn't the air compressor also work as an on-board air system? That could be quite convenient.


My next project after this would be a mild (I stress the word mild) lift of maybe 1-2". My overall goal is to improve the off-road ability of the vehicle without compromising its on-road manners or fuel economy. At the present time I have no desire to go to a bigger tire size (I'm on 235/85x16s right now and they seem to work fine.)

Anyway, I'd appreciate any input that you guys might have.

 

[DaveInDenver]

I know someone's going to suggest finding a wrecked TRD and transplanting the axle.

If possible, I'd like to keep this to an under $1000 project. Is that realistic? My understanding is that the ARB locker itself is not terribly expensive but that it requires the air compressor mechanism which doubles the cost.

These two lines suggest to me a factory locker. That would be loosely around $1,000. Toyota P/N 41110-3D010 is a factory fresh (NEW!) electric locker with 4.56 gears. They list for about $1,200, but with some shopping you could get it down a bit. You'll probably need a few items (harness, switch, etc), which will add about $200 from Toyota. I would expect a total of about $1,400. Then it's an R&R of old and new, which is seriously just a day under the truck crawling around.

The ARB locker will be about $900 alone, plus gears and set-up. Add in a compressor. You are looking at about $1,500 for that option as well. This option will require that you take the truck out of service for a couple of days or get a junk yard third member to set-up.

In both cases that assumes that you do most of the work, other than the gear set-up itself. If you pay a shop to drop the third member, set up the diff and reassemble the axle, install the air lines and/or controls you should budget about a day's work, so around $800 to $1,000, in labor.

In reality, a junk yard e-locker is really the way to go. That should be about $500 and if you have to buy the harness from Toyota, you will still be well under $1,000... But I understand about buying unknown parts, so I'd personally buy the factory e-locker. I went with ARBs because I was regearing to 5.29 and that is not an option from Toyota, so I'd have to re-gear anyway and that tilted the table to ARBs.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

ARB Locker: ~$825
Compressor: ~$200
Install into axle, wiring & install parts: $~400

Thats the only aftermarket selectable option for a Tacoma. Too bad your not interested in an e-locker axle swap, the labor for a shop to do the conversion would be about the same and finding a clean low mileage axle can be done for $500. Wiring is going to be the only issue, shops might not be interested in doing the legwork and research to wire the e-locker properly.

All things considered the ARB setup will net a stronger diff, the "8.4" is a better differential than the standard 8" and the ARB imo is a stronger setup when installed correctly,

 

[cruiseroutfit]

These two lines suggest to me a factory locker. That would be loosely around $1,000. Toyota P/N 41110-3D010 is a factory fresh (NEW!) electric locker with 4.56 gears. They list for about $1,200, but with some shopping you could get it down a bit. You'll probably need a few items (harness, switch, etc), which will add about $200 from Toyota. I would expect a total of about $1,400. Then it's an R&R of old and new, which is seriously just a day under the truck crawling around...

Can't be done unfortunately. Non-TRD (or e-lock) Tacomas came with a different rear axle, what is known as a 8.4" versus 8". Short of some serious axle mating surface fabrication, its just not happening. The entire axle assembly needs to be R&R'd.

 

[DaveInDenver]

Can't be done unfortunately. Non-TRD (or e-lock) Tacomas came with a different rear axle, what is known as a 8.4" versus 8". Short of some serious axle mating surface fabrication, its just not happening. The entire axle assembly needs to be R&R'd.

Yeah, that occurred to me just as I was walking back from the head. Since he has a Tacoma without TRD it would have the 8.4" axle. I forget sometimes that I'm stuck in the old mini truck world and that people have this fancy new stuff. Sheesh. It was easy with Pickups and pre-1996 4Runners, they all have 8" axles and all it takes is a little grinding to get a Toyota e-locker in your existing housing.

 

[grillmasterp]

Last year, Champion Toyota in Houston, was selling complete drum to drum Tacoma E-locked rear axles for $950 shipped. These were brand new units.
Since you have a 2004 - (updated E-brake, ABS etc....) This would have been a bolt on swap of the axle assembly- Just add the harness & switch
There is chance you will find someone that may want to get rid of their purchase. Champion had about 30 units.
I would have picked one of these up if I did not already have ARB lockers.

 

[Martinjmpr]

ARB Locker: ~$825
Compressor: ~$200
Install into axle, wiring & install parts: $~400

Thats the only aftermarket selectable option for a Tacoma. Too bad your not interested in an e-locker axle swap, the labor for a shop to do the conversion would be about the same and finding a clean low mileage axle can be done for $500. Wiring is going to be the only issue, shops might not be interested in doing the legwork and research to wire the e-locker properly.

All things considered the ARB setup will net a stronger diff, the "8.4" is a better differential than the standard 8" and the ARB imo is a stronger setup when installed correctly,

Hmmm...so it's looking like the ARB is probably the better bet? Where does the compressor mount and how does it work? I assume it's always running? Or do you need to turn on the compressor and then flip the switch for the axle? And is there an air storage tank?

To be honest, $1500 isn't out of the question. I'd like to find a place that can do it for less but I want to make sure it's done right, too.

 

[crawler#976]

...I know someone's going to suggest finding a wrecked TRD and transplanting the axle. That's not an option I'm interested in. I have no desire to put junkyard parts of unknown progeny in my truck (this is my DD, not a dedicated trail rig) and I don't have the tools or the ability to do an axle swap by myself, so whatever will be done will be done by a competent shop and will come with a warranty of some kind.

Well, Martin, you knew it was going to happen

For a grand, the TRD swap is without a doubt the best bang for the buck. I hope you'll reconsider the option.

Here's why:

1. Any locker requires removal of the third member from the housing, removal of the ring and pinion, the installation of your ring gear onto the new locker, R&R of bearings onto the locker, and the reinstall\setup of the old pinion and ring gear. That's all labor intensive work, and costs a minimum of 3 to 4 bucks if done properly. If you have new bearings installed, add another buck and a quarter or more for a master install kit.

2. You can get a low mile rear end. If you want to have it installed, the mechanic should be able to inspect it for any problems. Here's what is available locally that fits the bill:

Year: 2003
Part: Rear Axle, 4.10 L ABS
Model: Toyota Tacoma
Miles: 43,000
$630 GreenLeaf AZ Chandler USA-AZ(Chandler) 1-800-522-9122

The cost to swap an axle is cheap. It takes less than an hour on a hoist. The wiring will take more time than anything else, or the locker can be fitted with a cable actuator. It's easiest to purchase the locker ECU and harness from the same vehicle the axle came from.

Here's some info on the wiring:

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/electric_locker/

http://www.yotatech.com/f115/wiring-trd-elockers-fzj80-ecu-switch-155297/

Anyway, for a grand, there is no better solution.

Mark

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Hmmm...so it's looking like the ARB is probably the better bet? Where does the compressor mount and how does it work? I assume it's always running? Or do you need to turn on the compressor and then flip the switch for the axle? And is there an air storage tank?

Under the hood, back of the truck, under the truck, under your seat, in your glove box. Really it can mount anywhere. Take a look on ARB's site and you'll get an idea of the size. Most common is under the hood. They actually have two different sizes, the larger of which can be used to air up tire, the smaller "compact" compressor is just for running tires. The only run when the compressor switch was turned on, activate the locker and they turn on. They do have a small air storage tank, but the compressor will cycle based on a pressure switch, keeping the locker pressure at spec.

To be honest, $1500 isn't out of the question. I'd like to find a place that can do it for less but I want to make sure it's done right, too.

Start calling around, the prices I quoted are what you will pay here in SLC. The parts are parts, the labor is somewhat negotiable but when it comes to ARB installs, your REALLY get what you pay for.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Yeah, that occurred to me just as I was walking back from the head. Since he has a Tacoma without TRD it would have the 8.4" axle. I forget sometimes that I'm stuck in the old mini truck world and that people have this fancy new stuff. Sheesh. It was easy with Pickups and pre-1996 4Runners, they all have 8" axles and all it takes is a little grinding to get a Toyota e-locker in your existing housing.

Actually the 96'-02' 4Runners also had the 8", the Tacoma, T100, Tundra, and Sequoia got the "8.4". The design of the 8.4" truly is ideal, its got an integrated carrier bearing cap that really adds strength to the known issue of deflection over the 8".

 

[cruiseroutfit]

...1. Any locker requires removal of the third member from the housing, removal of the ring and pinion, the installation of your ring gear onto the new locker, R&R of bearings onto the locker, and the reinstall\setup of the old pinion and ring gear. That's all labor intensive work, and costs a minimum of 3 to 4 bucks if done properly. If you have new bearings installed, add another buck and a quarter or more for a master install kit.

No reason to touch the pinion for a simple carrier swap. Yes the ring and pinion pattern, backlash and preload need to be set up, ideally with new carrier bearings, but there is no reason to start into pinion unless wear is suspected. I stand by my $400 for bearings, labor and a diff gasket.

 

[njtaco]

What gear ratio is in the truck in question? If it is not 4.10's the TRD swap is not so direct, right?

 

[xcmountain80]

Now this information is coming from a Tacoma double cab and a 4Runner both from 2002. My brother had the Tacoma and I have the 4Runner. We both have Tru-Trac LSD's in the rear, while mine has the traction control (VSC) from Toyota my end never flies out unless I disable it. Austin never complained of the rear getting thrown out or light on the rear of his double cab Tacoma. As for traction the Tru-Trac engage and disengage as there supposed to. From what I know about the ARB's is the remain an OPEN diff when not engaged so this may either hinder or help your search. The difference between the two is a couple hundred dollars and the addition of a air tank or compressor. If you Taco had manual hubs you could do an Aussi locker in the front, as I did and have been extremely happy with the ability to point and shoot as it were. I do have a rear Tacoma axle (8.4") with 4.88's and an LSD if your interested. I looked back and saw you were only interested in the rear traction aiding device and I think around $1000 is more accurate +/- $200. Shop costs on the swap + shipping if you send it to Zuk or someone like that. The ARB compressor that I remember is great for the lockers but not really robust enough for day to day tire airing duties. I picked up a VIAIR 450 for $100 a similar unit was reviewed in OJ with better results and less money than the comparable ARB unit. You will have to plumb lines, install solenoids and wire switches while obviously not difficult it just add to the labor cost whether it is you or a shop.


Aaron

 

[Martinjmpr]

What gear ratio is in the truck in question? If it is not 4.10's the TRD swap is not so direct, right?

Well, I guess that would bring me to my next question: How do I determine my axle ratio? I have the original window sticker but I don't recall seeing the ratio there. Is there some "formula" (like "all 5 speed V-6's get this axle ratio" or "all 4wd non-TRDs get this axle ratio" or something like that?) Or would it be contained in my VIN number somewhere?

Honestly I'm still leaning towards the ARB. All new parts and a professional install appeal to me. When I was young and broke and in the military/college I had to do things in half-measures and they often turned out half-assed. Now that I actually have a decent job I'd like to be able to do things the right way.

Fortunately I'm located in the Denver metro area so there are a bunch of shops here. I'll call around and see what I can find.

 

[crawler#976]

No reason to touch the pinion for a simple carrier swap. Yes the ring and pinion pattern, backlash and preload need to be set up, ideally with new carrier bearings, but there is no reason to start into pinion unless wear is suspected. I stand by my $400 for bearings, labor and a diff gasket.

Kurt,

It's possible, but unlikely, that a new carrier will pattern out the same as the stocker, so pinion shims may be required. The lunch box lockers are the exception to that, but I'd never recommend a drop in for a daily driver. It's one of the unfortunate parts of crawling, but I blew up 5 Toyota thirds (two 8" front, 3 8" rear, 2 Detroits, 1 spool) on the trail beater before getting out of the game. In all the rears I had done, all required both sets of shims.

Mark