LR3 OEM Locker intsall, is it possible?

#16
Hello there. Brining up an old thread I made, as I do now have a blown rear Diff. So online I am able to find the following for a reasonable price: locking rear axles/ shafts, locking diff ECU module, & locking rear diff. What, if anything, else would be needed to convert from non- HD to HD. All parts discussed are going to be OEM. Also can anyone confirm the difficulty of these being installed, compared to just installing a new (non-locking) diff. Also not really trying to debate wether or not my off road use dictates a locker, or some parts that I should buy instead :) Just simply want to know what is needed for the OEM locker to work properly, how much extra work it will be for these additional parts to be installed. Thanks expo ers
 
#17
I believe I remember correctly that if you have non navigation it’s a direct bolt up and the Gap tool configuration but I could be wrong on this. I believe the harness is there for the electronic locker connector or capped off I would assume as most harnesses/connectors on vehicles are the same, they just don’t have the accessory or configuration in the ECU.

Don’t blame you, I’ll put lockers in at rebuild as well....most likely got the ARB route though. Just not worth the squeeze for me until I need a rebuild like you.
 
#18
Thanks for the quick reply! So I do have the HSE model with NAV. On eBay the locking vs non locking Diff. Prices are very similar. So it just comes down to if I want to pay more for the axels, & ECU module I assume? But basically you are saying that I should be good to go with the above listed additional parts correct? Having the locker function working with the 4x4 info screen to see when engaged would be nice, but not a deal breaker as long as the locker will engage when the computer thinks I need it. Probably going to check the ARB prices as well. Just weighing my options currently :)
 
#19
Thanks for the quick reply! So I do have the HSE model with NAV. On eBay the locking vs non locking Diff. Prices are very similar. So it just comes down to if I want to pay more for the axels, & ECU module I assume? But basically you are saying that I should be good to go with the above listed additional parts correct? Having the locker function working with the 4x4 info screen to see when engaged would be nice, but not a deal breaker as long as the locker will engage when the computer thinks I need it. Probably going to check the ARB prices as well. Just weighing my options currently :)
No, not what I’m saying. What I’m saying is if you “don’t have” nav the bolt up is much easier. I believe with an Lr4, there is more to it because of the computer interface and nav pages.

I’d wait to hear from someone who knows the process 100% or call ARB and ask them what it takes to put a locker in a non-locker LR4. I would assume the process is similar.

I’m not positive that the LR4 is wired the same for locked or non-locker configuration so it may be more than just finding a plug and flashing the ECU.

I can guarantee you that with a Rover generation of LR3/4, you either have full function or no function because the traction control and EAS will not function at all with components that do not have full interface installed in the ECU.
 
#21
Well thank you very much Anglotron! I’m glad to actually now have access to a documented form of the conversion. I have no issue getting dirty & mad to install something myself, & after reading your directions, the only thing that terrifies me is all the new wiring work required. :0 but I am very grateful for your info, & a realistic aspect of what I’ll need for it to work. I’ll update eventually as to what I do, & maybe I can luck out some quality used parts as you did :) happy LOCKED rovering
 
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