M100 aftermarket axle for Toyota bolt pattern

old_CWO

Active member
I think the Toyota style lug with captive washer will not concenticly affix the toyota alloy wheels without a hub ring
Aren't they functionally the same thing as regular mag wheel lug nuts, just metric? I would think it's no different than old school lug centric mag wheels on muscle cars. Those are centered on the studs via shank lug nuts that are precise in the wheel holes and just the right length to tighten without bottoming out. Why won't the stock Taco nuts and wheels do the same thing on a trailer hub with metric studs?
 
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jwiereng

Active member
Aren't they functionally the same thing as regular mag wheel lug nuts, just metric? I would think it's no different than old school lug centric mag wheels on muscle cars. Those are centered on the studs via shank lug nuts that are precise in the wheel holes and just the right length to tighten without bottoming out. Why won't the stock Taco nuts and wheels do the same thing on a trailer hub with metric studs?
The ones I have are not a precise fit between to mag lug shank and wheel holes.
 

old_CWO

Active member
The ones I have are not a precise fit between to mag lug shank and wheel holes.
Well, if that's the case then it obviously wouldn't work. Interesting. I would swear that wasn't the case last time I messed with the Toyota OEM stuff. I think I have a 2nd Gen Tacoma TRD alloy wheel and factory lug nuts laying around. I will measure this weekend and report back. I assume the 4R setup is similar enough to the truck as to be a good comparison.
 

old_CWO

Active member
The ones I have are not a precise fit between to mag lug shank and wheel holes.
As promised: the holes in the Tacoma alloy wheels measure .745, the stock lug nuts are .725. I think the fit tolerance should be .001 to .0015 for lug centric wheels. You are absolutely correct - this combo will not work.

So the hub centric spacers seem to be the path of least resistance for running Toyota alloys on the trailer. I doubt there is a mag wheel lug nut in either thread pitch (trailer 1/2-20 or Toyota 12-1.5) with the correct diameter shank.

Bummer. It would be nice to not have that extra piece in there.
 

jwiereng

Active member
Thank you for the measurements. Seems like even if a metric stud was found, and pressed in the Toyota OEM style nuts would not center the wheel.

I also want to avoid hubcentric spacer, maybe there is a hubcentric ring that would work.



E trailer says dexter 3500 6 on 5.5 hub has a center diameter of 3.09 inch (78.486mm) Diameter of Outside Center Hub Bore for Dexter 3,500 lb Idler Hub


Toyota 4Runner/Tacoma/ FJ wheels are 106mm

seem like we need a 106mm OD x 78.486 mm ID hub ring.
 
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jwiereng

Active member
Also found this one Very close to the correct size from motorsport-tech. Same operation that make BORA spacers


106mm x 78.1mm $25 each Alu

I wonder how close tolerance is necessary. Do you think 78.1 mm will be too tight on 78.486 mm ?
 
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old_CWO

Active member
I would think no more than 1-2 thousands (.025mm - .05mm) larger than the hub would be about right. That's sort of typical shaft to bearing clearance for machinery. The spacers you found are about .015 undersized to the hub, I don't think those will fit for you.

Couple of options; call Motorsports tech and see if they can custom make something. I know they do a lot of custom stuff at their facility.

Or, buy the ones you found, take them and your hubs to a local machine shop and have them open up the bore on the aluminum hub rings. If it were me, I would have the machine shop make them with an interference fit and press them on. That way when you remove the wheels for any reason the hub spacers stay in place.

Heck, the machine shop can probably make what you want from scratch just as easy and skip the extra step. Give them the trailer hubs and a wheel then let them go to town. This would guarantee everything fits up as planned and you could have them done in steel instead of aluminum.

I would definitely want everything in hand to verify measurements before proceeding. Not sure I trust the precision of the trailer hubs...

This of course assumes that you are still going to use the Currie metric studs and Toyota OEM lug nuts.
 

Kymudder

New member
Is this the 1/4ton military jeep trailer? I’ve been somewhat looking for one with no luck around western ky, only found the bigger ones for deuce.5s
 

jwiereng

Active member
Not easy to get a machine shop in my area to take this on. Most have enough good paying jobs that are not thrilled about jobs with ones or twos.

Maybe I can get some time on a lathe myself. I don’t have one. I do have a mill and rotary table.

Any machinists on the forum that could give some tips on how I could make using rotary table?
 

PSea

Active member
As promised: the holes in the Tacoma alloy wheels measure .745, the stock lug nuts are .725. I think the fit tolerance should be .001 to .0015 for lug centric wheels. You are absolutely correct - this combo will not work.

So the hub centric spacers seem to be the path of least resistance for running Toyota alloys on the trailer. I doubt there is a mag wheel lug nut in either thread pitch (trailer 1/2-20 or Toyota 12-1.5) with the correct diameter shank.

Bummer. It would be nice to not have that extra piece in there.
looked high and low for a solution to this problem. spoke to many wheel experts about it. a pair of rough country spacers did the trick. cost less than $70 total. done!
 

Carb850

New member
So to get a new Dexter Axle I pretty much need to get wheel spacers, correct?

Any reason not to get a new axle outside of keeping it original? I'm modifying this to fit my needs so originality is not a concern of mine.
 

old_CWO

Active member
So to get a new Dexter Axle I pretty much need to get wheel spacers, correct?

Any reason not to get a new axle outside of keeping it original? I'm modifying this to fit my needs so originality is not a concern of mine.
It seems that using hub centric wheel spacers is the easiest way to run factory Toyota alloy wheels, yes.

There is no compelling reason I can think of not to use a new axle except perhaps losing the factory parking brake feature. Modern electric trailer brakes are available with park brake option if necessary. I'm a wheel chock guy but the park brake is sort of nice.
 
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