M101A2 Adventure Rack

Buffalobwana

Observer
First off. Props to some of the builds on here. Real talent here.

Everyone builds their trailers to suit their needs and desires. This one is going to do a lot of different tasks. This one will be very versatile. A RTT is a possibility, so we will build accordingly.

I found this picture on Pinterest while searching for cookie recipes ... :unsure: ok, I was looking at trailer pictures again. Anyway, this is what I want, just take away the spare tire, spotlights and the toolboxes. Leave LEDs around sides.
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Definitely leave the winch. I have a 2000lb Warn Winch and am already wired with an Anderson 50 amp disconnect at the rear of the truck, so this is an easy decision.

I have used a winch setup similar to this with idlers welded to the rollbars in a Polaris Ranger to load heavy items into the bed. Game changer.

Abilities / Goals
Work, hunt, fish, camp in no particular order
  • Work - Haul materials, lumber etc. (I have a dozen trailers so this one needs to be able to preform some special work tasks, thus the winch).
  • Camp - It will need to quickly double as a camping rig with RTT capabilities (when someone needs to upgrade their RTT, I’ll be ready to pounce on the right one).Two 100 watt solar panels, 3000 watt pure sine inverter
  • Hunt - Fish - I live in Texas. Hunt and fish in Texas and out West. We do an annual Antelope hunt in TX and/or NM. I fish in Idaho with a friend a lot, so it would be nice to have this done by September.
  • I have a ranch here in TX, so we are constantly hauling something back and forth. It has to live in Frisco with the constant threat of the HOA’s evil eye. Might need to make it fit in garage. Low priority on the list

Let’s get busy y’all!
 
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Buffalobwana

Observer
Start with a 101A2 with a non functional surge brake. No bueno.
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It doesn’t sit level. I do not like that. Let’s fix that first. Pull off the 65 lb nose gear and sell it on Steel Soldiers. Happy seller, happy buyer.
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I welded a 2 1/2” receiver hitch in the place of the old hitch. It’s about 3” wide and fit great. Welded a 3/8 plate on top and to the tongue.

I used a 2.5” receiver so I would have the option of using a sleeve to reduce to a standard 2” receiver, or I could make a longer and stronger tongue out of 2 1/2 .250 wall square tubing.

I made a 2 1/2” .250 wall square tube pintle hitch because we had an hour before we had to leave to go to the ranch with a load of lumber.
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No time to paint today. Load and go! Trailer sits perfectly level now! Bought a chain at HD and wrapped it around tongue in case popo were to look, also, had not gotten it registered at this point in the process (it did get inspected and registered very soon after this trip). Had temporary lights installed for its inaugural trip to the ranch.
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Buffalobwana

Observer
Trailer is sitting level now.
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Let’s start on the rack. 2x2x1/8 angle iron. I put spacers (two washers = 1/4”) between bed and angle because I want some play and because I may spray bedliner.
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Once the angle iron was laid down I marked it up for many things; marked stake pockets the one pre-drilled hole already on the trailer, and marked for drilling holes at the center line of the trailers lip instead of the center of the angle iron.
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I held the angle iron in position with clamps holding it down and C-clamps holding the two washers between the angle iron and the side
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I also cut it just short of the last stake pocket so that this pocket was exposed for use for something down the road.
 

Buffalobwana

Observer
Got the base laid out. The pallets are in there to bring the floor up to level with the wheel well so I can haul plywood.
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Mark my holes, take the angle off, drill holes, back on, clamp, weld angle together, drill holes in trailer, bolt to trailer.

Boom. We have our base. Now things get fun.

I want a roof rack. But I need legs to support it, and they must look cool doing it.

I have a JDSquared tubing bender with air over hydraulic ram that is the coolest thing since someone figured out how to put sliced bread in pockets on a shirt. Not cheap, but nothing quality ever is.
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My first design was ok. That wasn’t good enough. My next design I really liked, but my pieces were all too short to go all the way up over and across, so instead of making 5, I had to make 10 and join them. (Pay no attention to the end of the roof rack that comes later in the story)
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Buffalobwana

Observer
To make the legs, I had 6’4” pieces of 1” schedule 40 to work with. So I bent them and had to join them. Anyone who has had to join pipe perfectly knows how easy this can be. (Sarcasm font off)

I made a jig on my work bench to cut and weld them. Wood and welding don’t usually go well together, but I made it work out.
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Mark it for cut.
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Grind clean, fit in jig and weld.
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I chopped all the bases off at 10* angles to match the 80* bend at the top. Test fit. They all stood up on their own. Good sign.
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Buffalobwana

Observer
Before we weld the legs on, let’s build the roof rack that goes on top of the legs. I’ll bend the four end pieces first.
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The gap between the top and bottom rail of the rack will be the same as that of a 2x4. If I ever want to build a structure, it would serve as a great support for an inexpensive 2x4 framed enclosure.

That, and the 2x4 is the perfect spacer for welding it together.
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Start adding side rails.
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Finish the side rails.
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I still need some 1/2” spacers on the long pieces, or possibly some flat steel. I don’t own a dimple die set, but this project just begs for me to buy one.
 

Buffalobwana

Observer
Time to weld the uprights on. The tricky part is keeping all the uprights exactly the same distance apart, so, I made another jig out of a 2x4 by drilling 1/2 holes the size of the tubing in the side of the 2x4 at exact intervals.
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Lay it on the rail line up with the marks for the uprights.
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Place each upright in the slot on one side, line up on the other side, put two 90* magnets on it and tack one side in place.
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I would use the magnets to keep the other side at 90 and tack in place. Once they were all tacked in place I welded one in place carefully keeping it at a perfect 90*.

Once I had one in place, I moved my jig to the top so that the spacing would remain the same as I welded the rest of the uprights to the rail.
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Buffalobwana

Observer
I added two bars on the front for stability and possible hi-lift jack mounting position.
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The roof rack will go on top of the uprights.

Yeah, about that.

So, I had this brilliant plan on how to slide it up there. The dr said there are no broken bones, but since this is the third time I have dislocated my shoulder, I should probably have an MRI.

I didn’t tell him about the 2x4 hitting me in the side of the head before me and the rack hit the ground.

I’m almost 3 weeks off now and about to start back up on the project. Maybe more pics soon.
 

Buffalobwana

Observer
Since the surge brakes didn’t work, I bought a set of electric brakes with parking brake option. Scrapdaddy helped me out here in getting the right ones. (Props)

I Ordered all new bearings seals and races while I was at it, but didn’t need them as the old ones were in almost new condition. I’ll list the part numbers for anyone who needs them.

I’ll go through this for anyone who doesn’t know how to replace bearings and add brakes. I’m sure better than half of you do, but if it helps someone, then it’s worth it.

How to add electric brakes on an M101A2 trailer

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Left and right brake part numbers for anyone with 101A2 orA3 or 1101, 1102.
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Just know that you will have to figure out your own method of attaching them to the trailers cables. I think I have found a way ... more on that later.

Pop the cap, remove pin, castle nut ...
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and pull hub off.
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5 nuts keep the brakes on, you can see them around the shaft. Unscrew them and pull the brakes off.

Clean the spindle, inspect for any damage.
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The old bearings should be in the hub. Carefully pull the outer one out. Flip it over. The inner one will be protected by a grease seal. This should be replaced, in my opinion. They are cheap and adventures are expensive. Spend the money. Pry the grease seal out and pull the inner bearing out.
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Clean the bearings. Brake cleaner, gasoline ... anyone have a good method? I’m all ears. I hate both of those methods. I put mine in a bucket and use brake cleaner, but that stuff is pricey.
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Inspect the bearings for marking pitting, rust. Do they work? My larger inner bearing shows some markings, but I bet it would be ok (I replaced it anyway) outer bearing looks new. Replaced it too because I bought new bearings and I don’t want to do this job again.
 

Buffalobwana

Observer
Clean and inspect races inside hubs. If they are worn or damaged, replace them. You should be able to knock them out from the opposite side if you need to replace them.
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There are a lot of good videos on YouTube on how to pack bearings. This video basically shows what I’m doing here ... only better :)

Put your new brakes on. Make sure you have the correct side. Right on right side.
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After reinstalling bearings and grease seal in the hub, carefully slide it back on spindle. You don’t want to damage the grease seal!

There is plenty written on how tight the nut should be. I tighten mine down until it’s tight then back off 1/8 turn and stick a cotter pin in it. I also make sure to check it for wobble after the first test run. Then at certain intervals. Be prepared to pop the cap and tighten it on its maiden voyage just in case you didn’t get it seated properly the first time.

It happens.
 

Buffalobwana

Observer
Here are some part numbers. I got these from the guys at Steel Soldiers (I’ll get the guys name) Scrapdaddy helped me find it. He did a similar job with his A3 recently. He did a heck of a job on his trailer, new tongue, brakes etc.

101A2 and A3 bearing list
Grease Seals - https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Bearings-Races-Seals-Caps/TruRyde/RG06-070.html

Inner Bearing - https://www.etrailer.com/p-25580.html
Race- https://www.etrailer.com/p-25520.html

Outer bearing - https://www.etrailer.com/p-2585.html
Race - https://www.etrailer.com/p-2520.html

Some brake options. You can see, adding electric brakes are not that expensive. $113 for a pair w/o parking brake or $220 with parking brakes.
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Bearings aren’t that pricey either. These prices are for a pair of bearings, not for just one. And odds are you may not even need to replace races.
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Buffalobwana

Observer
Well, now I feel completely dejected.

I put the rack on top of the uprights, and it looks out of place.

I made the rack the length of the trailer, which is longer than the the front to back span of the legs, in other words, it hangs over the front and back legs.

I knew it was going to do that, I just didn’t know it would look this odd.

I’m not even sure that’s the problem though. It just looks odd.

I love the looks of it so far, (without the roof rack) and I’m not going to ruin it by forcing it forward with this particular rack.

Something has to change.

Sorry, I didn’t get a chance to take a picture, it fell off before I could take a photo. It rests right on the bends on each side and is quite difficult to get on and off, thus the accident a month ago. Rather not do that again.

I’d rather use this rack elsewhere, or scrap it before I compromise this project.

Ideas?
 
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Buffalobwana

Observer
Thanks Screwball, I have seen that picture before, I like it. Maybe it was one of the seeds planted in my brain that started this idea. You never know where these ideas come from. I’ll see if I can pull some ideas from it.

That rack looks good because it “fits” it’s the same size as the structure under it.

My problem is that mine didn’t turn out like I thought.

That’s ok. Not the first time in this project I have had to turn around and start over!
 
Nice setup, but I have to ask why Schd 40 pipe instead of DOM tubing? Seems to me you gave up strength and added more weight. Might have saved you a knot on your head and a bum shoulder. BTW nice bender and good mod on the HF ram.
 

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