M101A2 Trailer Purchase & Project

#16
Pulled the tarp out of the back and laid it out in the garage to dry out, seems to be in good shape just needs a good power washing.





Was looking at the bows, seems if you pull the legs that the bows might just fit in the stake pockets which would make nice low profile bows for a bed tarp??? Will see when I pull the side panels in a few days.


 
#17
I just picked my Dexter 3500# up the other day. I ordered it as follows: 64" WMS to WMS(they use hub face to hub face but it is the same thing) 43.25" Spring perch Center to Center with 10x2.25 electric brakes and the optional parking brake feature(added $90) from Redneck Trailer supply. Another member on here posted he ordered 63" WMS to WMS and same as rest of mine. I also got the oversized 3" tube as opposed to the standard 2 3/8. I am hoping to mount mine up this weekend but I believe the larger tube is same size as the military one so the Ubolt/ lower shock mount bracket should fit perfect. Congrats on the safe recovery home and looks like you got a really nice trailer, but dang now that means there will be two of us with black frame white box M101's on here. Well at least once we both get building.
 

SWITAWI

Doesn't Get Out Enough
#18
I was looking into this a while back to see what axle dimensions would closely match up with my FJ's... I found that the FJ's track width is 63.2" according to Toyota's published 2010 specs, and I've read the rear axle's hubface-to-hubface (or WMS-to-WMS as Pikeman noted) dimension is 64.25" (though I haven't measured it myself). Maybe that info will help out some.

Cheers.
 
#22
I just picked my Dexter 3500# up the other day. I ordered it as follows: 64" WMS to WMS(they use hub face to hub face but it is the same thing) 43.25" Spring perch Center to Center with 10x2.25 electric brakes and the optional parking brake feature(added $90) from Redneck Trailer supply. Another member on here posted he ordered 63" WMS to WMS and same as rest of mine. I also got the oversized 3" tube as opposed to the standard 2 3/8. I am hoping to mount mine up this weekend but I believe the larger tube is same size as the military one so the Ubolt/ lower shock mount bracket should fit perfect. Congrats on the safe recovery home and looks like you got a really nice trailer, but dang now that means there will be two of us with black frame white box M101's on here. Well at least once we both get building.
I was looking into this a while back to see what axle dimensions would closely match up with my FJ's... I found that the FJ's track width is 63.2" according to Toyota's published 2010 specs, and I've read the rear axle's hubface-to-hubface (or WMS-to-WMS as Pikeman noted) dimension is 64.25" (though I haven't measured it myself). Maybe that info will help out some.

Cheers.

Good information from both of you guys, I appreciate it. If you get it installed this weekend let me know how it works out, especially with the shock mounts.
 
#23
I just picked my Dexter 3500# up the other day. I ordered it as follows: 64" WMS to WMS(they use hub face to hub face but it is the same thing) 43.25" Spring perch Center to Center with 10x2.25 electric brakes and the optional parking brake feature(added $90) from Redneck Trailer supply. Another member on here posted he ordered 63" WMS to WMS and same as rest of mine. I also got the oversized 3" tube as opposed to the standard 2 3/8. I am hoping to mount mine up this weekend but I believe the larger tube is same size as the military one so the Ubolt/ lower shock mount bracket should fit perfect. Congrats on the safe recovery home and looks like you got a really nice trailer, but dang now that means there will be two of us with black frame white box M101's on here. Well at least once we both get building.
Couple of questions:

1. Looks like the bottom shock mount is welded on to the military axle. Seeing that you have to cut and weld that why not do the same to the top spring perch since it's welded on too? Order an axle with no perches/mounts...

2. What about studs? Aren't the FJ studs 12mm? I think most axles with a 6x5.5 (Chevrolet) bolt pattern with 1/2" studs instead of 12mm...looked at Dexter, no 12mm studs listed. Did Redneck have it? One thread on the FJ forums said:
My new trailer has standard threaded studs that are larger then the FJ's studs.
Can I press in new studs to match? Or is a new/different hub required?

Answer: Knock out the studs (wheel bolts) on the trailer hubs.
Replace with stock Rear Wheel Bolts for the FJ.
I got mine from NAPA part# BK6414207 $3.99 each.
3. What about the lug centric Chevy hub to the Hub Centric Toyota wheel difference?

Trying to get this right the first time....
 
#24
Ok first things on perches. It is better to order with spring perches installed since the axle has camber built in for better tracking. Also I was pretty sure the lower shock mount plate unbolted with the U-bolts and why I ordered as a 3" tube instead of the 2 3/8, but I couldnt find them last weekend so you might be right. I will go check one of my trailers in the motor pool tomorrow to make sure.

Hub centric from Chevy to Toyota, all trailer hubs are smaller then either so will need a lug centric rim. Most Toyota rims are both lug and hub centric with conical lugs so not a problem there.

!2mm vs 1/2 you can either swap out the studs or just use the SAE lugs with conical washers on the Toyota rims. It does not take much to swap the studs. When I built my tire carrier the plate was made with 1/2 studs and I swapped for 12mm pressed into same holes no problems so I assume wont be a problem on the trailer hubs. Thanks for reminding me on that one
 
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Titanpat57

Expedition Leader
#25
I used all the original perches and hardware. Carefully cut and weld them back on, its realitivly easy.

If the FJ wheels are pretty new , you can use Spidertrax to get from lug centric to hub centric. I would not mix the two.
 
#27
Between weather and Christmas the trailer project has come to a bit of a halt. I intend on seeing about an axle setup tomorrow, still unsure about hubs and studs.


Did manage to pull the sides and put everything in storage. Will remove the surge brakes so I can weld on my adjustable hitch channel this week then attack axle and lights.


 
#29
WOW..... that trailer is is really nice shape. Is there a build date stamped on the ID tag?
Except for some surface rust on various contact points it's very clean. Funny you asked, I checked the tag a few days ago, nothing stamped, it's blank where the date should be. Nothing on the paperwork either. My guess by the shape it's in is late 80's to very early 90's....but who knows.
 
#30
Finally getting it stripped down. Had our baby boy on the 5th so everything rightfully came to a screeching halt until now.

Removed all of the surge brake/lunette parts up front, torched off the landing leg as I'm going with the rotating/removable jack. I haven't weighed everything yet but it is a drastic difference of course. We will finish tearing everything apart this weekend. Trying to get an axle ordered today. I'm going to order one 62" wide and order 2x1.25" Spidertrax spacers to make it right..adds 100.00 to the axle portion but oh well... better right than half assed.

Once she's stripped down I'll pressure wash, do some detail sanding and surface rust removal/treatment then shoot the frame black, undercoat the bottom of the box and then black/white the box to match the FJ...then go back together.

Debating keeping the military tail lights or recess mount some 6" oval led lights on the rear bumper/frame cap. Going to strip all of the military wiring off as well.
 
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