Meet the Trot'n Turtle - Unimog U1300L Build

thebigblue

Adventurer
Thanks for sharing this, I can spot the rear pivot-point on the bed-frame, how about the front, is it positioned somewhere around the rear panel of the fuel-tank?

Thx
 

Hodakaguy

Adventurer
Nice work. Wish my boards looked as good.
Fwiw, you can get those bolts from MB if you are freaky for being original.
I just used elevator bolts from local hardware store..

I found some flat head allen cap screws with the proper head diameter, the bolts are a little bigger but I'll drill the holes to fit :)

Hodakaguy
 

Hodakaguy

Adventurer
Thanks for sharing this, I can spot the rear pivot-point on the bed-frame, how about the front, is it positioned somewhere around the rear panel of the fuel-tank?

Thx

Yep your right on the money, it sits about even with the rear of the fuel tank.

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Hodakaguy
 

patoz

Expedition Leader
You're posting early tonight, you must be slacking off on the job! :agree:

That stuff looks great! It's really going to set it off.
 

Wyuna

Observer
The parts look really good in satin black.

Good to see that flammable cabinet in the back ground, i got get one myself.
 

Hodakaguy

Adventurer
Started some re-assembly work today. First up while the battery box is removed from the truck I wanted to pull the front drive line and install grease zerks on the two front U-joints. The U-joints have plugs in the middle of the joint and they are very difficult to remove and replace with a Zerk fitting with the drive shaft still on the truck.....so now is the time while access for removal is easy.

Protective cover removed from the rear drive shaft connection.

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Marking the faces so I can re-install the drive shaft in the same orientation that it was originally in.

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Drive shaft out of the truck. This shaft connects the output of the clutch to the transmission.

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Once the drive shaft was removed from the truck I could easily get to the plug located on the middle of the U-joint. With the plug removed I found that I needed a 8mm Zerk fitting....which after looking through my supplies I'm fresh out of....Dohh! After a trip to town (seems I always have to have at least one of those lol) I had the needed 90 deg Zerks in hand and finished up the job (no clearance issues with the Zerk installed), the joints are now full of RedLine Syn CV2 grease and future maint will be a lot easier :). After this picture the drive line was re-installed on the truck.

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Next up time to re-assemble the battery box, I'll be removing the rear bed from the truck soon so I need to get the truck mobile again.

Support mounted up.

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Starting to come together (that's dirt on the bottom of the tray)

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Batteries installed. Terminals and interior bolts were treated with a battery anti-corrosive jelly to keep them in good cond. 250AH of batteries!

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And buttoned up. I'm diggin the satin black color :)

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Starting to re-assemble the headlights, decided to go with stainless hardware as I like the contrast against the black.

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Can't wait to see it all mounted up on the truck again

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Hodakaguy
 

Hodakaguy

Adventurer
Great pics !

That pic, side of gearbox. The arm what that aircylinder connects to...
Since its exposed right now, inspect closely its weld where arm connects to the shaft.
They are known to break at that connection. Mine and two othere I aware of failed at that point.

As its a bugger to otherwise see, and Unimogs otherwise invincible. I never given it a thought, but autopsy revealed mine could have been detected before falure.

That aircylinder shifts the gearbox between high & low range when moving the main lever between 4th & 5th.
Depends how it breaks off, you could be stuck in low or high range. It can also fall into a neutral position as mine did and you are not going anywhere.

Thanks for the heads up, I'll look it over good today. Always good to catch things early if there is a problem.

Hodakaguy
 

Hodakaguy

Adventurer
Time to fill the holes left over from all the radio antennas that were mounted during it's former life as a rescue truck . There are 11 holes in the roof that need filled, 5 from antennas and 6 from the blue rescue lights that were removed.

First up buff off the paint.

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We cut some slightly thicker slugs and welded them in, cooling them down immediately with water and a rag.

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Ground down flush.

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Now to fill in the holes on the front below the windshield, these holes were used for the electrical plug that went to the spot light. I'll coat the back side with a cavity wax nozzle for rust protection.

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Installed the front fenders again to make it drive-able, going to remove the bed soon.

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Engine purring away.

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Picked up some replacement bolts for the bed deck. The original bolts are a weird size and only available through Mercedes...at Mercedes prices. After looking at options I found some stainless flat head Allen cap screws that will work perfectly, just need enlarge the holes in the deck slightly to make them work :)

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Hodakaguy
 

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