Monty Just Died. I think.....

[RyanY]

Thank you all for your replies. I will work on it this week, and keep you posted. I have also found a motor for about $1500 with 112k miles on it. So if it comes out to that, I kinda have it covered, though It will suck to pay for freight. So I do hope is one of the simple fixes mentioned previously. Question, wouldn't anything falling into a cylinder bore mess the walls up? That means I would need a new engine doesn't it?

Having anything solid entering the combustion chamber is almost certain to do some damage, the only question is how much. Something the size of a butterfly plate screw could go in and out in one cycle with very little damage. If a butterfly plate went in (assuming that it could actually fit past an intake valve) it would likely do a lot of damage, but most likely to the valves and the top of the piston.
Like I said, pull out the spark plugs and look at them for damage. If there's nothing obvious then do a compression check to see if there's a mechanical problem of some sort. If there's nothing conclusive there then you'll need to pull off the valve cover and inspect the valve train for any issues.

 

[coffeegoat]

You can pick up a cheap bore scope from Amazon for like 20 bucks. They don't work awesome, but it might be enough in this case.

Though, in all reality, once you can get to the spark plugs you're most of the way you pulling the heads anyways...

 

[Tjtalan]

That things done my friend. When stuff like that comes into the shop its a used engine or rebuild time. The diagnosis to pinpoint the issue itself is about half of the combined labor to install a new engine. Just get a used engine and re-seal and do the timing components while it’s out.

Sounds like a rod to me, but either way that’s internal engine damage.


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[Swift_45a]

With all due respect Swift_45a. It sounds like you didn't read the comments...

No, I guess I didn't, I guess I missed that part of having all the back records... Still, these rigs can sit for a long time, in fact my SR hasn't driven more than 15 miles in 2.5 years now and has a rusty radiator, much like my 2.5 that sat for a while too.

Assuming you do need it, wouldn't you rather prefer to rebuild your engine rather than go for a used engine someone may have neglected or just flat out beat on? I'm sure you want to get it back on the road, but rebuilding it would give you the chance to keep in on the road for another 200k, rather than 40-60k.

Sounds like a rod to me, but either way that’s internal engine damage.

Thought so, too, good to have a 2nd opinion from a person in the Industry.

 

[Fefrank]

No, I guess I didn't, I guess I missed that part of having all the back records... Still, these rigs can sit for a long time, in fact my SR hasn't driven more than 15 miles in 2.5 years now and has a rusty radiator, much like my 2.5 that sat for a while too.

Assuming you do need it, wouldn't you rather prefer to rebuild your engine rather than go for a used engine someone may have neglected or just flat out beat on? I'm sure you want to get it back on the road, but rebuilding it would give you the chance to keep in on the road for another 200k, rather than 40-60k.



Thought so, too, good to have a 2nd opinion from a person in the Industry.

Swift_45a, I would love to do a rebuild, but I've never done a full one before. I did a top end rebuild on a Volvo S40 5 years ago and its not something I like to remember. It took me 6 months to do it and when I put everything back together, it never ran correctly again, so it scares me to have to do a full one. Besides, wouldn't it cost the same or more than a re-manufactured engine to do it myself? Please correct me if I am wrong. I am good with a wrench and I have the tools necessary with the exception of an engine joist or stand, but my time is limited. So if anyone has any counsel or advice on good practices on what to do when doing a rebuild I am all ears. I feel like my biggest problem is with organization of parts, and figuring out where each part goes back to ( and know I am not talking about, where does the alternator go, or the timing belt tensioner, or the spark plugs) I am talking about nuts and bolts, rings, and little gaskets, etc.

 

[RyanY]

You're still getting ahead of yourself - you need to diagnose the problem before you start planning out the repairs. If it's in the bottom end then a full rebuild is warranted - if it's something in the top end then it's entirely likely to be fixable with far less time and money involved.

 

[nwoods]

I wish this new forum software indicated where people were at. Fefrank, are you in SoCal?

 

[Fefrank]

I wish this new forum software indicated where people were at. Fefrank, are you in SoCal?

I am in Utah Valley, Utah

 

[Se7en62]

Any updates on this, I'm curious what you found to be the culprit?

 

[billiebob]

For your viewing pleasure

ahh it is a diesel !!

 

[Fefrank]

I should have something by the end of this week.

 

[Fefrank]

For all of you following my story, I thank you for your advice and help. It came out to be (drum roll please)................................................................................. A Stuck Lifter!!! Yes, ladies and gentlemen, all that noise came from a lifter! the car is now running smoothly. Thanks again!

 

[billiebob]

With all due respect Swift_45a. It sounds like you didn't read the comments above with the exception of my initial comment.

Yes.
The joys of the internet when any word can spark a reaction and like idiots some type out that reaction.

 

[Fefrank]

It has been driving smoothly for 120 miles now. The "Service Engine Soon" light came off on its own. I think is safe to say its good for now. For those who wonder how i did it. It was simple. Half a can of sea-foam into the oil, disconnect spark plug from cylinder where the sound is coming from (used a PVC pipe as a stethoscope, I know weird but it worked) in my case cylinder 1. Let it run for 10 minutes. Plug spark plug back in, let run for 5 minutes. Turn off and let car sit over night. Next day turn on, let the vehicle warm up to operating temperature and rev the engine intermittently until noise quiets down. I got this from a really cool Mitsubishi mechanic in the Mitsubishi forums, he said this happens quite regularly with the 3.8 Mitsubishi engines, happens more on Monteros than Eclipses and Outlanders. Maybe because they sit more? that's just my thought though.

 

[WVI]

Did you change the oil or does it still have seafoam in it?