My DIY OVRLND-style Pop Up Camper

evan96

New member
Inspired largely by OVRLND campers and 97heavyweight's build thread, I've been planning a pop up camper build for a few months now. The general plan is similar to 97heavyweight's build: Aluminum extrusions for the frame (because I don't know how to weld, and don't have a great means to learn how at the moment), ACM for the siding, lot's of 3M VHB tape. The goal is a heated, insulated place to sleep on ski trips, and general camping trips. Being able to stand upright and also sit up in bed are requirements. I used to have a forester with a sleeping platform and not being able to sit upright was the worst thing about it. The ability to build the camper in my 1 car garage was also a significant requirement.

I started working through a CAD model in September and had finalized most details by November. I had to wait for some things to fall into place, but its finally time start the build. I finalized dimensions and ordered the aluminum extrusion from TNUTZ over the Christmas holiday, and it arrived last week. Major work on the build started over the weekend. I used a combination of anchor fasteners and end fasteners. I paid for tnutz to do the machining for the anchor fasteners, but did all of the tapping for end fasteners myself. Everything is built from the 15 series extrusions. Mostly the 1515, but some 1530 for the main structural parts of the cab-over.

About 8 hours of work on Saturday got most of the main part that sits on the truck bed completed. Another 6 hours on Sunday and most of the cab-over part was done, just a few more pieces to go before putting the roof together. Another 6 hours of work on Monday, thanks to the 3 day weekend, and the initial mock-up of the full frame is done. Next up is building the roof lifting bars, a test fit on the truck, then take it all apart to put back together with locktite.
 

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ITTOG

Well-known member
It looks good. What is the plan for the big hole in the roof?

Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
 

97heavyweight

Active member
Dude! I never thought someone would take any ideas from my crazy build, but it puts a smile on my face. If you have any questions feel free to ask. That frame looks awesome and i'm glad to see that you went with the larger series 80/20. Definitely cheaper than what I did. Can't wait to see how this shapes up.
 

evan96

New member
It looks good. What is the plan for the big hole in the roof?

Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
It's not so much a plan for the big hole in the roof, but rather the beams running longitudinally in the roof will end up being the mounting point for a roof rack in the future.


Dude! I never thought someone would take any ideas from my crazy build, but it puts a smile on my face. If you have any questions feel free to ask. That frame looks awesome and i'm glad to see that you went with the larger series 80/20. Definitely cheaper than what I did. Can't wait to see how this shapes up.
Thanks! Your build has been super helpful for thinking through the details. And starting off with the larger series extrusion definitely saved time and money. This thing is beefy.
 

billiebob

Well-known member
Inspired largely by OVRLND campers and 97heavyweight's build thread, I've been planning a pop up camper build for a few months now. The general plan is similar to 97heavyweight's build: Aluminum extrusions for the frame (because I don't know how to weld, and don't have a great means to learn how at the moment), ACM for the siding, lot's of 3M VHB tape. The goal is a heated, insulated place to sleep on ski trips, and general camping trips. Being able to stand upright and also sit up in bed are requirements. I used to have a forester with a sleeping platform and not being able to sit upright was the worst thing about it. The ability to build the camper in my 1 car garage was also a significant requirement.

I started working through a CAD model in September and had finalized most details by November. I had to wait for some things to fall into place, but its finally time start the build. I finalized dimensions and ordered the aluminum extrusion from TNUTZ over the Christmas holiday, and it arrived last week. Major work on the build started over the weekend. I used a combination of anchor fasteners and end fasteners. I paid for tnutz to do the machining for the anchor fasteners, but did all of the tapping for end fasteners myself. Everything is built from the 15 series extrusions. Mostly the 1515, but some 1530 for the main structural parts of the cab-over.

About 8 hours of work on Saturday got most of the main part that sits on the truck bed completed. Another 6 hours on Sunday and most of the cab-over part was done, just a few more pieces to go before putting the roof together. Another 6 hours of work on Monday, thanks to the 3 day weekend, and the initial mock-up of the full frame is done. Next up is building the roof lifting bars, a test fit on the truck, then take it all apart to put back together with locktite.
well done, well thought out, moving at warp speed
only 1 thought, can you add camber to the roof to promote drainage
standing water at the edges or fasteners is often the source of leaking roof issues
 

evan96

New member
Adding camber is a good idea. I've thought about it from time to time while planning the project, but just haven't really thought of a way to do it that I like. I think when I'm getting ready to put the ACM on the roof I'll experiment with shimming the middle of the roof with 1/4 or 1/2 inch plywood and see if that works. I'm open to suggestions on other ideas though. My backup plan is to seal the roof edges and seams with 3M VHB tape, sikaflex 252, and Eternabond. Three layers of waterproofing ought to be enough, but water often finds a way.
 

97heavyweight

Active member
Adding camber is a good idea. I've thought about it from time to time while planning the project, but just haven't really thought of a way to do it that I like. I think when I'm getting ready to put the ACM on the roof I'll experiment with shimming the middle of the roof with 1/4 or 1/2 inch plywood and see if that works. I'm open to suggestions on other ideas though. My backup plan is to seal the roof edges and seams with 3M VHB tape, sikaflex 252, and Eternabond. Three layers of waterproofing ought to be enough, but water often finds a way.
That is what I had thought of as well. Cutting some plywood at a nice easy radius that reaches maybe a half inch or so in the middle. I just have VHB tape on the corners, then the trim and all the trim has some flexible silicone sealant around the edges and i've had no issues. I did later add Dicor when I was chasing down a leak, but my leak was from not having a drip edge.
 

evan96

New member
Slow progress over the last few days. I've been working out some details in the roof lifting bars, made from 3/4" EMT conduit. The long pieces making up the sides of the roof are in 2 segments, so I want an extra support in the middle there to support some of the bending stress at the joint. Especially for things like snow-driven load. Just need to add the one on the other side now. This evening I enlisted the help of a friend and my girlfriend to lift the frame up into the truck bed for a test fit. That went well, so hopefully this weekend I'll start cutting ACM for the exterior siding.
 

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97heavyweight

Active member
Slow progress over the last few days. I've been working out some details in the roof lifting bars, made from 3/4" EMT conduit. The long pieces making up the sides of the roof are in 2 segments, so I want an extra support in the middle there to support some of the bending stress at the joint. Especially for things like snow-driven load. Just need to add the one on the other side now. This evening I enlisted the help of a friend and my girlfriend to lift the frame up into the truck bed for a test fit. That went well, so hopefully this weekend I'll start cutting ACM for the exterior siding.
Have you tested to see if the front flexes under a load yet? I'd do that beofre cutting anything. I re-did my frame three times to fix the flex of the cabover portion.
 

evan96

New member
Have you tested to see if the front flexes under a load yet? I'd do that beofre cutting anything. I re-did my frame three times to fix the flex of the cabover portion.
I didn't do a ton of testing, but when I got the first long cabover piece attached I had someone stand on the back corner while I hung on the end. I felt comfortable with how much it flexed, probably under a quarter inch.


Over the last couple weeks I disassembled and re-assembled with locktite on the joints that I won't be able to access when the ACM is on. Then I cut and attached the ACM with a combination of 3M 5952 VHB tape and Sikaflex 252. I still need to add trim to seal up the corners and some flat trim to seal the gaps where different panels meat.
I'm using a single track aluminum extrusion for the rails of my roof rack, so I've gotten those holes drilled through the roof too.

A window for the driver side and my roof fan get delivered this week, so those two and the trim are the next tasks to be done.
 

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evan96

New member
Got the gas struts and roof vent installed. Currently working through attaching the trim around all of the corners. I also started to wrap the camper in grey vinyl. The ACM I bought is black, and I'd prefer not to bake in an all black camper in the summer. I'm certainly not great at vinyl wrap, but it looks ok from a distance at least. I'm really hoping to have this thing on the truck within the next week. Still need to add the popup fabric, install the window, and plenty of other odds and ends before that happens though.
 

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evan96

New member
Looks good. I'm thinking i should've gone with the struts on the side as well. What weight did you go with?

Yeah we ended up going with struts on the side to complement the lifting bars in the front/back. Lifting bars help give lateral stability, opposing struts on the side give longitudinal stability. I'm using 60lb struts, 36" extended length with a 15" stroke. 60lbs is overkill right now in the development stage, but I'm going to be putting a roof box and skis up there so I wanted the extra strength. Might need to downsize to 40 or 50lb during summertime trips when we have less stuff on the roof.
The only downside I've experienced to the struts on the side is that it tends to push the roof forward or backwards when lowering, so it makes getting the roof lined up more difficult. I'm hoping that tendency goes away when there's more weight on the roof and fabric attached to help keep things aligned.
 

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