My Journey

I decided to by pass the trail entirely that day.....and instead to continue up the road to see what we could see.....

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We found a sensational pine forest.....roads covered in ice & snow.....a small campground.....and more silence.....

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And it occurred to me while stumbling around there that maybe I wasn't the only one enjoying the silence here.....and that maybe I wasn't alone here afterall. No doubt these mountains & forests are filled with wildlife.....and no doubt that they too enjoy the silence just as much as I did that day.....and I think it was then that I knew that I was thankful for that closed gate that we encountered on that cold, blustery day in the Red Cliffs National Recreation Area.....

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We returned to the old beater Jeep.....9.9 miles with 2,560' of elevation gain.....

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Summits are optional.....but being one with nature is not.....

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From here we drove south to Washington, Utah.....home of the $1 hot shower.....where we connected with some international travelers.....and where we slept well.....

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Jerry, thanks as always for your posts. They allow me to escape reality for a bit and travel with you...I still say to check out Green River Utah and the Book Cliffs. You won't be disappointed.
 

Foy

Explorer
Foy.....thanks so much.....yea, not a day goes by that I don't think of home. When I had no home these past few years, there was no draw to anywhere special, but now my world has changed drastically. I seem to always have these battles within.....

One question for you Foy.....how in the world do people find these minerals ? How is it that someone looked at that cliff and said let's dig here ? All I see is different colors & sizes of rocks.....

Jerry, thanks for your interest. I realize you're not a big fan of mining and you have a lot of company on that subject. But having cut my professional teeth in the exploration side of the industry, my outlook differs from that of many. Personally, when I get around the West in a pickup made largely of steel, aluminum, and copper, with a lead-acid battery, and requiring diesel fuel or gasoline for power, I can't generate but so much animosity towards the mineral resources mining processes required to manufacture it. Can miners be better stewards--absolutely. Were 19th century miners particularly terrible stewards--absolutely. But I think to condemn all modern day mining and hydrocarbon production is unrealistic and unnecessary.

The question of "how in the world do people find these minerals" is at once very simple and highly complex. On the simple side, when we're talking about ore deposits of metallic minerals, to the greatest extent the base metals (copper, lead, and zinc) and precious metals (gold and silver), modern day exploration morphed from old style prospecting, which was in itself a search for "color" in outcrops of bedrock. And not just any bedrock. It was well known to 19th century prospectors that igneous and metamorphic rocks hosted the great majority of metallic ore deposits, so widespread areas where only sedimentary rocks were found typically received little attention. And reference to "color" is just that--the metallic ore minerals are mostly sulfides and oxides of the metal. Example: a common ore mineral of copper is chalcopyrite, or copper sulfide; lead's most common ore mineral is galena, or lead sulfide, and zinc's primary ore mineral is sphalerite, or zinc sulfide. As erosion of the rocks above the concentration of the ore minerals takes place, the orebodies are affected by groundwaters "as the surface comes down to meet them" so to speak. Exposure to percolating or circulating groundwater causes alteration (mostly oxidation) of the ore minerals and host rock into oxides of the ore minerals and host rocks. The oxides and other mineralogical children and grandchildren of the ore minerals are by and large bright in color, especially in the cases of copper alteration, which produces bright green and blue alteration minerals, termed secondary minerals. When the ore minerals themselves don't produce brightly colored secondary minerals, the fact that most sulfide deposits include high concentrations of iron sulfide (pyrite) and that pyrite chemically weathers to iron oxide (rust) at least leaves a distinctive patch of medium to light brown or light reddish brown behind. So, the old time prospectors could readily identify igneous and metamorphic rocks and would spend their time traipsing up and down canyons where bedrock outcrops were readily observable, and would literally find "color" in small to large patches on outcrop surfaces. In 1900, the vast copper deposits at Kennecott Alaska were discovered by a pair of prospectors working in a metamorphic rock area (a greenstone terrain--metamorphosed basalt) and noticed a huge area of bright green color high up on a canyon wall, well away from any grassy meadow areas. Prospectors also kept a weather eye peeled for outcrops of quartz occurring within the same igneous/metamorphic rock belts, as such veins would often be the result of fracturing of the bedrock creating pathways for hot metal rich fluids to emanate from a nearby igneous intrusion (such as a body of granitic rock) which provided both heat and mineralizing fluids which would enter the fractures and ultimately precipitate the metals in the form of sulfides.

Old time prospectors also recognized that some sedimentary rocks were worth a look, primarily carbonates called limestone and dolostone (or dolomite). There is a long identified affinity of ore mineral formation when a carbonate is intruded by hot metalliferous fluids such as arise from an intruding body of granitic rock. The chemical reactions are beyond the scope of this simplified summary, but suffice it to say that many of the world's great metal ore mineral deposits were formed along the contact zone of older limestones and younger intrusive igneous rocks. The Madison Limestone which we have had fun talking about as an aquifer has been a great host of orebodies when in contact with much younger intrusives throughout the West, and in particular in Montana. The stable continental shelf on which the Madison its lateral equivalents formed covered vast swaths of the West, so there are widespread areas in which the much younger granitic intrusions, generally emplaced during the so-called Laramide Orogeny, emerged from deep in the crust as a result of the subduction of Pacific oceanic crust beneath the lighter continental crust as plumes of molten rock. There are hundreds of small to large intrusions (termed stocks, plutons, and batholiths as the areal size increases) throughout the West. In Montana, the largest is the Boulder Batholith along the continental divide just east of Butte. The large outcrop areas of spheroidal weathered granites along I-90 at Homestake Pass and for several miles east of it are parts of the Boulder Batholith, and the highly mineralized area around Butte received vast quantities of metalliferous fluids emanating from the batholith. As widespread as the Madison was, it and other older and younger carbonates were there for the cooking by the hot fluids. With gold occurring in small quantities within sulfide orebodies, it was common for prospectors to find gold in stream gravels then keep working upstream to find the quartz veins or sulfide outcrops from which it had weathered out of. Long story short, the old prospectors would look for widespread areas of the Madison and other carbonates (which you at least now realize are pretty much everywhere) in contact with granitic rock and would prospect for color along the contacts.

Now to the present question about how the prospectors came to discover silver at the Toquerville mine area now within the Red Cliffs preserve. It turns out the secondary minerals formed from the chemical weathering of silver sulfide (argentite) are varying in color, often gray, and sometimes colorless, and the argentite is not always found with pyrite which weathers to such a distinctive rust color. But the soft secondary silver minerals can also be yellow and found with other yellow minerals such as certain ore minerals of uranium. So prospectors in the mid-late 1860s had their normal "colors" to search for, at least to a degree. The occurrence of silver minerals in sandstone is also well outside of the norm, where prospectors were geared to finding primary silver minerals and their secondary products in either igneous/metamorphic or contact zones between intrusives and sedimentary carbonates--not in sandstone at some distances from either carbonates or intrusives. Most researchers came to believe the primary silver minerals were formed by leaching of silver from volcanic ash beds within the sedimentary pile and redeposit within porous sandstone beds along the groundwater/surface interface. Long after their deposition, the sandstones at Silver Reef, UT were folded and faulted by tectonic activity and the more resistant beds were exposed by erosion to resemble ribs or reefs, hence the term Silver Reef. It is thought that either before or after the tectonic deformation that groundwater conditions within some identifiable horizons of certain sandstone beds were conducive to precipitation of the oxides and chlorides of silver formed from the leaching of silver sulfides from the volcanics. And in the case of Silver Reef, the "rush" took over a decade to begin inasmuch as nobody would believe the prospectors had found the silver minerals in sandstone. In a way, it was similar to the belated realization that much of the "soft blue-gray clay" which greatly hindered gold mining was discovered to be silver chloride in fantastically rich concentration over in Nevada, at a little place which became known soon thereafter as the Comstock Lode.

Today's prospecting, more professionally termed exploration, actually uses former producing areas as one of the major guides. The best places to find orebodies is a place at which orebodies are known to have occurred, right? But with most surface outcrops in likely terrains well explored over the last 150 years, today's explorationists can use a variety of geophysical testing to locate subsurface or blind bodies of conductive minerals (sulfides are great conductors of electricity), by magnetic expression (higher than background degrees of magnetic attraction from iron oxides like magnetite), and varying degrees of inflection of the Earth's gravity field (dense orebodies have measurably higher gravitational pull). So remote sensing employing ground instruments or instruments towed over the surface in helicopters or fixed wing aircraft can be followed up by geochemical sampling of soils and stream sediments and by breaking rocks at outcrops, the latter requiring modern day prospectors employed by mining companies spirited across the landscape in F250 pickups.

So that, in way too many words, is how it was done back in the day and how it is done in the 21st century.

Foy
 
Jbynum.....of course I've been through the Book Cliffs area and spent some time there but last night I was having a look at just how extensive that area actually is (I read 2.4 million acres) so yea there's much more for me to see. But for this planned short trip & at this time of year, it wouldn't work for me. I'm way southwest of that area and if anything I'll just be going mostly further south. I try to be outside most days so daytime temperatures at a minimum of say upper 40's is my limit.....

Foy.....well, dang ! That was informative ! Thanks.....I was deleting photos this morning and came across these.....I had left the rig in Silver Reef, Utah prior to that last hike and took photos of the area where I had parked.....it was actually a mining museum (which I didn't bother to visit.....I wanted to hike !).....

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Finally my love affair with the Red Cliffs National Recreation Area came to an end.....from St. George, Utah we drove southwest along Old Highway 91 passing through the Paiute Reservation and finally ending up in the Beaver Dam Wash National Conservation Area.....

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I settled into the same campsite that I had used the year before.....

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Thanksgiving day was spent here.....just me and the dogs.....sound lonely ? Nope not at all.....

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Unlike my last stay here which was during the Christmas holidays, and when I was actually almost all alone.....for some reason the Thanksgiving holidays brought out the whackos with their guns and ATVs.....we only enjoyed 2 sunsets here before moving further south to lonlier & quieter places.....

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If this was a book that I was writing.....then this next group of postings would be a chapter in that book.....and I'd probably call that chapter.....My 14 Day Quest to Climb Virgin Peak.....

We drove south into Arizona.....

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Back onto Interstate 15.....continued driving south.....soon into Nevada.....

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We loaded up with supplies in Mesquite, Nevada.....finally stopped at a carwash to do away with the road salt from our travels up north.....

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Never in my wildest dreams did I think that it would take me 14 days to climb Virgin Peak.....but one of the really cool things about chasing mountain peaks is that you'll soon find that there's such more than just the peaks to be explored.....

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We set up our camp maybe 5 miles down the National Back Country Byway.....

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The original plan was to spend a night here.....then take the Jeep the following day to the "trailhead" that didn't actually exist.....

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We were parked above the Virgin River.....and it turned out to be the perfect spot to have a base camp as we explored Gold Butte National Monument and chased the mountain peak.....a place I'd never heard of until I actually saw the entrance sign.....

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Our camp was roughly 8 miles to the east of the actual boundary of the National Monument.....we were camped maybe 300 feet from the main road.....overlooking the Virgin River to the south and the Virgin Mountains to the north.....

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As best that I can recall now we took the next day off (so to speak).....we were surrounded by loads of canyons to the north of our campsite so we decided to explore.....

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The following day we headed out in the Jeep on one of the roughest roads that I can remember traveling (reminded me of the Dempster Highway in Alaska.....miles and miles of broken pavement). Now as we drove that road I noticed a thump, thump, thump coming from the Jeeps' right rear wheel.....long story short, I had towed the Jeep with a locked up brake calipher.....

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Fortunately for me the tire shop in town was able to get a replacement tire within just a few days.....so that day we returned to camp and I decided then that we'd head back out the next day in the truck to climb a smaller peak.....

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So our first climb in Gold Butte National Monument was Little Virgin Peak (3,533').....

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This one was easy.....4.3 miles round-trip with 1,100' of elevation gain.....

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I was surprised at the large cairn and post that we found.....there was even a summit register here.....

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Maybe what was best here though was that from that summit I could see the road that would lead us to Virgin Peak.....maybe another 20 miles from here.....

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Next up was getting that tire replaced.....but things were to get worse. The Jeep wouldn't start.....dead battery. Finally we made it to town, where things went even further downhill. The right front wheel was wobbly.....add in some front end work.....$2,600 and 2 days in town.....and finally we were back on the road.....

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We returned to our campsite above the Virgin River and the following day we headed out to climb Virgin Peak.....

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After 20 miles of brutal BLM roads we finally arrived at our "trailhead".....

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While one could possibly drive one more mile up this road (possibly even more), I chose to walk it.....honestly I hate bouncing around in that Jeep anymore.....

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One mile up the wash took us to the canyon entrance.....

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I'd read that there's a small cairn maybe one mile up the canyon placed along the left side marking the start of this climb.....

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Three miles more up that canyon and I still hadn't seen that cairn.....and it was at this point that I recalled that I had forgotten to turn off the Jeeps' tail lights (long story).....it was a beautiful morning of hiking in the canyon but still no summit as we returned to the Jeep.....

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As we headed home I took notice of this little hump in the landscape.....Quail Point (4,042').....so we climbed it instead.....

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It wasn't much of a climb as far as climbs go but just being out and about is all that really matters.....just to be exploring new places.....

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I snapped a few pictures of my summit dog here.....

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And then we just hung out up there where we could see for miles & miles.....if you look hard enough in some of these pictures, you can see Lake Mead way out there in the far distance.....

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So yea there was no big summit that day but it was still a great day in the mountains.....

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longhorn1

Observer
Realized I hadn't checked for 3+ weeks. Sorry about all the truck and jeep troubles. The new pup is doing great. Thanks for asking. We have taken her on 2-3 mile walks everyday. When she hears the word "Walk" she goes crazy. Funny how they have their own personalities. We have sure enjoyed her company. Your hikes have produced some amazing photos. Love the summit shots. Happy Holidays.
 
Arjan.....happy to share the more seldom seen parts of America with my European friend.....?.....

JD.....my dogs love to hear "let's go for a walk" but if I say "let's go hiking" they go insane. It seems to be a tradition that started with Yukon and has been passed down over the years. And honestly.....I kind of get the exact same feeling as they do when I say it but I am able to refrain from jumping up & down and running in circles (hmmmm.....maybe I should try it ?). Anyhow, glad to hear all is well.....dogs rule.....



Now on our next trip down Gold Butte Road we had passed through an area known as Whitney Pocket .....well, Whitney Pocket was a place that I had decided that we definitely needed to explore.....so rather than make another attempt at the tallest peak in the Virgin Mountains, I decided that we'd climb a smaller peak (1/2 day) and then explore Whitney Pocket (1/2 day).....believe it or not.....that plan actually worked.....

We parked the Jeep (after roughly 25 miles of roughly ? roads) on the west side of Whitney Pass (4,852') and began our climb along the now dirt & gravel road.....

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I found very little information on the internet in regards to this next climb so mostly I relied on my own navigation skills (usually a bad idea) with the assistance of the ap OnX Hunt.....Billy Goat Peak (5,702').....

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In the picture above I'd say it looks to be an easy climb.....well, part of it was.....part of it was not.....

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Initially we hiked the ridgeline.....the views were simply out of this world.....I could certainly see why the signs of the Bighorn Sheep were quiet frequent.....

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This is probably as remote as one can get (in this area anyhow).....just me, 2 dogs, and the Bighorn Sheep that we never saw.....

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The intensity of the climb was proportionate to the height of the climb (does that make sense ?).....or another way to say it.....the higher we got the more difficult the climb.....

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It was a bit terrifying up there on those rock ledges.....just knowing that you're all alone.....miles from rescue.....yet at the same time there's this certain peacefulness for the exact same reasons.....down climbing those rock formations was treacherous.....my knees reminded me of that very fact for several days after our summit of Billy Goat Peak (5,702').....

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My guess would be that Whitney Pocket is the biggest draw in Gold Butte National Monument.....access is fairly easy if you don't mind the rough road and from what I observed most people came here in ATVs or 4 wheel drives so it was not a big deal.....there's a huge parking area with an information board and thankfully a toilet.....there's designated areas for camping throughout the rock formations.....

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And maybe it was because of all these things that I didn't spend all that much time here.....the rock formations are sensational.....my pictures do them no justice.....

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But coming here.....to this place where RVs are parked at campsites.....with groups of ATVs passing by......well, I could only cherish my morning alone on Billy Goat Peak that much more.....

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As I journaled this morning.....this once again passed through my mind.....

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Ghostdancer.....I'm destined to die in the mountains.....I rarely even take a pack along unless it's a full day planned in the mountains.....as you'll see in this post.....I admittedly can be irresponsible.....or am I ?



I don't recall how it was that I discovered that there were petroglyphs in Gold Butte National Monument but fortunately I did.....finding the petroglyphs was yet another story. I found myself driving down a wash no wider than the set of Jeep wheels in my quest for the petroglyphs. It seems to me that the BLM has done a wonderful job of not promoting Gold Butte National Monument . There's the forbidding sign that's posted 20 miles prior to the entrance, then 20 miles of horrible access road, and there's also very little on line information. Anyhow, eventually we found the petroglyphs of Gold Butte National Monument.....

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.....and it was well worth the time & effort to search them out.....

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When I left home nearly two months ago I had dreamed that this was how I would spend the first two months of my travels.....wandering around canyons daydreaming of the years past.....

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That day I shared the petroglyphs with one other couple which actually turned out to be a good thing.....that guy had a knack for finding these things and he was quick to yell "there's more over here".....I sure did like that young couple I'll have to admit.....

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The dogs cooled themselves in one of the many pools of collected rainwater.....the guy.....he yells at me "hey there's tadpoles in these pools. Maybe we could find toads ? ". All I could think right then was "were my dogs smashing tadpoles that are already struggling for their lives ?" I yanked those dogs out of there so quickly after hearing his words.....he sure did make me think about my careless behavior.....or was it ? I still don't know.....

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We climbed all over those rocks that day seeking out the petroglyphs.....

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One of my favorite spots in those cliffs was this opening that you could kind of easily crawl through (well.....if you're a dog that is).....

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The Falling Man petroglyph was super cool.....on line there are theories about this.....

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My new friends yelled to me....."hey we found a pictograph.....come see".....and indeed I did.....

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Just one more outstanding day in our lives.....so grateful.....

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Fortunately we found the road home.....not much of a road but much better than what we came in on.....

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