Newbie here w/his first off road trailer
- Thread starter Jason Magee
- Start date
old_CWO
Well-known member
Have you tried a lower tire pressure? Normally, the advice on trailers is to run max pressure but big LT type tires need very little PSI to safely hold up something like you have. I bet 15 PSI is more than enough - that's what I ran on my last trailer with 30x9.50 mud tires even moderately loaded. It towed and handled awesome with short, stiff trailer springs and no shocks.
There are load inflation tables out there that can show you how much air is required based on actual load. My bet is that your total weight isn't even on the chart, meaning you only really need enough air to keep them on the bead.
There are load inflation tables out there that can show you how much air is required based on actual load. My bet is that your total weight isn't even on the chart, meaning you only really need enough air to keep them on the bead.
ottsville
Observer
I don't like running lower pressure in tires on a trailer with tendency to sway; it seems to amplify the sway.
Stomperxj knows his stuff. Try that to soften springs. But you still have to deal with the tongue weight.
Some guys were running Ford ranger springs with some leafs removed on light trailers. Longer springs for the same weight rating give a little better ride is my understanding.
Look through builds on similar trailers here, there's lots of them and lots of good info to learn from.
Stomperxj knows his stuff. Try that to soften springs. But you still have to deal with the tongue weight.
Some guys were running Ford ranger springs with some leafs removed on light trailers. Longer springs for the same weight rating give a little better ride is my understanding.
Look through builds on similar trailers here, there's lots of them and lots of good info to learn from.
Jason Magee
New member
Thanks for the reply! I have been running my tires at 25 psi which seems high for my load. I’ll dig up the charts and see if I can find the best psi for my setup. Thx!
ex m38a1er
Adventurer
Jason Magee
New member
I was looking at these springs as well. They are 4-5 inches longer than mine. Like you mentioned I can move my rear mounts back to have a better weight ratio.
Any Thoughts on these springs?
https://compact-camping-concepts-2....rame-parts/products/smooth-ride-frame-springs
dreadlocks
Well-known member
for this rig he can just sit it directly on a bathroom scale since he only needs 100-150# on the tongue.
Jason Magee
New member
Awesome video! I’ll put one of these together this wknd. Thx for the reply. The tongue weight is my first thing I want to do and thn go from there.
ex m38a1er
Adventurer
Yes you are right!
Since he knows the total trailer's weight.
But I usualy post having in mind that other people can use our writtings for future reference.
dreadlocks
Well-known member
my first adventure trailer was about 1000-1500# depending on load, just got to the point where I could dead lift it and tell if I was too light or heavy.. I was towing with a vehicle that had no tow ratings (Diesel Golf) so keeping the load balanced right was critical.. I had a specific packing method that had everything just right, but as we started consuming water and supplies and picking up souvenirs the balance would change and I'd have to reload everything to accommodate.. With a truck that can handle >500# on the tongue, load it nose heavy.. better too tongue heavy than light.. going over 20% on tongue would hardly be be noticeable from the TV I suspect.
IMO Looking at OP's rig, I'd extend the tongue a few feet, and make a cooler rack for the front so its easy to access while exploring.. for the base of my rack I welded up some rebar and it doubled as a portable bbq grill for tossing on campfire, it was heavy but it always provided weight on the front even if the bed was entirely empty it could do highway speeds.. also mounted a 20# LP tank to a spare tire holder on tongue
IMO Looking at OP's rig, I'd extend the tongue a few feet, and make a cooler rack for the front so its easy to access while exploring.. for the base of my rack I welded up some rebar and it doubled as a portable bbq grill for tossing on campfire, it was heavy but it always provided weight on the front even if the bed was entirely empty it could do highway speeds.. also mounted a 20# LP tank to a spare tire holder on tongue
old_CWO
Well-known member
There is a lot of good advice in this thread. For sure the tongue weight needs to be right; that can be done by adding weight to the front or moving the axle rearward. I like the idea of longer tongue and cooler myself, sort of a two for one deal! Several guys are advising shocks, but dampening probably isn't going to help you in this case. I believe your suspension is too stiff for the load it's carrying. Your current springs are about 26" eye to eye with three leafs - betting that's 1500 lbs each or so rating, which is way too much. Your trailer springs aren't holding up the axle or tires which probably account for a third of your trailer weight. That means your suspension is only holding up around 700 lbs or so. After the tongue is sorted out, play with tire PSI and try removing that bottom leaf (or two). I would wager you will find that your bounciness is resolved or greatly diminished for basically zero dollars that way.
It is possible to get the suspension on a trailer to the point where it can carry your load and is soft over bumps but then rebounds terribly - that's when you need shocks. Automotive leaf conversions (Jeep, Samurai, Ranger, etc.) tend to fall in this category. It's a fine time proven design but for your little rig I would submit it's overkill and not worth the effort.
It is possible to get the suspension on a trailer to the point where it can carry your load and is soft over bumps but then rebounds terribly - that's when you need shocks. Automotive leaf conversions (Jeep, Samurai, Ranger, etc.) tend to fall in this category. It's a fine time proven design but for your little rig I would submit it's overkill and not worth the effort.
Jason Magee
New member
Great advice! I sure do appreciate all the feedback and willingness to help a new guy.
I’ll start with is dialing in the proper weight ratios. I’m undecided on which route I’ll go, extending tongue and adding something there or pushing the axle back. I do have a crf70 we bring camping very often and could make a mount for it near the front of the trailer box. It weighs roughly 130lbs. That combined with a small extension I imagine?
I will also remove the bottom leaf to see if that helps. I do like the idea of a slightly longer leaf which sounds like it’ll make it ride better but if I can achieve the ride I want for a few bucks less that’d be great.
I found the Gabriel 81676 shocks for 20$ a pair locally. If I can dial in the springs adding shocks would be something I’d very much like to do.
Looks like a have a few things to get started on! I’ll keep y’all posted in this thread as things progress. Hoping to get some of this stuff done this coming wk.
Thx again and I look forward to more thoughts and pointers!
dreadlocks
Well-known member
dont look like you can move your axles back more than a few inches.. you might look at tosion axles, they adapt to your load weights and are independent so they do really well off road.. Ive got tandem dexter 3500# tosion axle setup and I love it.. shocks are built in.. just glides down washboard roads where a leaf tandem axle would be shaking its self apart.
longer tongue is a bit more stable and alot easier to back up.. at the expense of more sidewall stress around corners at speed, but those big TA's can take it.
longer tongue is a bit more stable and alot easier to back up.. at the expense of more sidewall stress around corners at speed, but those big TA's can take it.
Jason Magee
New member
Hey guys,
Just wanted to add an update. So far I have been able to extend the the tongue 24”, added a tool box to the front of the load box on the tongue, removed the small bottom leaf and put in shock dampners(Gabriel’s).
The up and down bouncing has been reduced a good amount and the trailer pulls much better, as well backs much better. The new tonight weight is 110lbs with the box loaded. Still a bit light but still working on the loading part.
The trailer still wants to teeter or walk side to side a bit but I’m starting to think it’s the rad mounts on the leafs that are on the weak side and have more flex and movement thn they should. That along with the narrower wheels base(compared to by truck) and the weight of the side boxes.
I’ll lost some pics soon but just wanted to thank you guys for the help. The trailer is gettin there.
Just wanted to add an update. So far I have been able to extend the the tongue 24”, added a tool box to the front of the load box on the tongue, removed the small bottom leaf and put in shock dampners(Gabriel’s).
The up and down bouncing has been reduced a good amount and the trailer pulls much better, as well backs much better. The new tonight weight is 110lbs with the box loaded. Still a bit light but still working on the loading part.
The trailer still wants to teeter or walk side to side a bit but I’m starting to think it’s the rad mounts on the leafs that are on the weak side and have more flex and movement thn they should. That along with the narrower wheels base(compared to by truck) and the weight of the side boxes.
I’ll lost some pics soon but just wanted to thank you guys for the help. The trailer is gettin there.
Mr. T
Member
You may want to add propane tank to your trailer tongue like I did to help with tongue weight. When I first built my trailer it did the same as your trailer, bounce around a lot. The trailer only weighted 300 lbs with the wood box on it. After I added the RTT, Awining, Propane tank the bounce was a little less at 450 lbs. but put my camping gear in the box it weights just under 1000 lbs. and that stoped it from bouncing around.
Attachments
Last edited: