No start / shaking gauges 2006 Xterra

[Inyo_man]

Looked for a firewall ground, but was not able to locate one. From what I saw, the body ground on the negative battery cable is it. Can anyone point me to it?

Using the suggested tests in the above linked post:

Starter Relay tests-
Inhibit slot: With positive DVM lead to positive battery terminal and negative DVM lead to Inhibit slot, key turned to start we have 12.6 volts.

Slot #48 (tranny position): With negative DVM lead to battery negative and positive DVM lead in slot #48, key to start we have 6-7 volts.

Slot #21 (ignition): With negative DVM lead to negative battery terminal and positive DVM lead in slot #21, key in ON position, we have 0 volts. With key in start position 6-7 volts.

Slot #19 (starter): Applied 12 volts directly from battery to slot #19, we have a click, but no crank.

Used jumper wire between starter wire plug and positive battery terminal. It clicks, but does not crank.
When jump started the starter engages and starts the Xterra.

OBD II scan: No codes. When idling the voltage reading is 14.3 volts.

Checked all fuses with DVM (in cab and engine bay) all check out.
Switched relays in engine bay- no change.
Reverse lights illuminate when in reverse.
Battery has 12.6 volts resting and 14.3 at idle.
Battery terminals new and tightened.
Positive battery cable reads 12.6 volts at starter connection.

I can jump start the rig and it runs fine.
Since the Xterra jump starts, does this mean the IPDM is operating correctly?

Cheers

 

[NatersXJ6]

Where are you putting the terminals when you jump start?

And, are you then turning the ignition key to complete the starting process?

 

[burleyman]

Sounds like a poor connection at a battery post. Turn on the headlights. Bright? If so, and the lights dim while attempting to make it go "raw-raw-raw", clean the battery terminals.

Or, using a voltmeter, place one test lead on the battery post, and the other on the same battery post connector, and try to make it go raw-raw-raw. If the meter shows whole volts dc, clean posts. Test both positive and negative. A clean battery post /terminal connection should read nearly zeros volts while going raw-raw.

 

[Inyo_man]

Thanks for the replies.

Where are you putting the terminals when you jump start?

And, are you then turning the ignition key to complete the starting process?

The jumper cables get attached to the corresponding terminals on the batteries.
The key is turned to start.

Burleyman, The battery is in clean/excellent condition. Absolutely no corrosion on any terminals or posts.
I'll try your test with DVM leads on one post and check the results. I've already tested the battery at rest, while idling, and under load...all tests were in spec.

Cheers

 

[NatersXJ6]

Considering that this car is “new” to you. Are you sure the battery is big enough? Internet diagnostics are notably sketchy, but everything you seem to be describing makes me think you have a battery that is showing charge but has virtually no capacity.



Here is my line of reasoning:

Your screen name of Inyo Man makes me think your are in the Desert, maybe Ridgecrest or Cal City or something.

You start chasing battery terminals because you had some random starting issue but the battery showed full voltage on a multi meter.

Someone has put an AGM battery in this vehicle, either that was factory or they heard that they are better, so you can’t check the water.

Years in the desert have abused the battery. This plus poor charging made my odyssey battery sulfate or die through some other mechanism.

If you can take the battery to Autozone or similar they can do a drawdown test to see how much capacity remains. The odds of hitting an untrained tester are high, so try 2 places if you can.

If you need to test it yourself, figure out a way to run it down, like keep the headlights on until you kill it, then put it on a charger. If it indicates full in less than 6-8 hours, you have a capacity problem and need a new battery.

when my odyssey batteries died, they would gofrom dead/no start to full on the odyssey charger in about 2 hours, but there was only enough capacity to start the Jeep about 3x and they needed a jump or died again.

 

[Inyo_man]

The battery was purchased within the last eight months by me.

The capacity is larger than the OEM, but fits in the tray (AGM/ group 24F/ cca 840/ capacity 76 ah)

We are on the coast, but spend lots of time with family in the Ridgecrest area.

New terminals were installed because we have plans on installing a winch in the future. The factory negative cable does not easily allow for addition grounds to be attached cleanly. After installing the new terminals the Xterra drove fine for a couple of weeks. This makes me think the issue is not related, but obviously I'm considering all possible options.

I conducted a load test on the battery/alternator with the DVM, all with in spec.

I don't own a battery charger. So a drain and recharge is difficult.

Thanks for all of the help, it's truly appreciated. My next move is to borrow a battery from my brother (the posts are in the same orientation as the Xterra's) and give it a try.

Cheers

 

[NatersXJ6]

That is a lot of evidence to suggest that the battery is good, but having to jump it to start suggests otherwise. Borrowing a battery to swap a known good is probably a good idea for a next step. Without standing there, I would be leaning toward a battery problem.

Good luck though, and be sure to let us know the outcome. I really hate these less-than-obvious / intermittent failures. It is so much easier to diagnose something when chunks, oil, fire, or smoke pour out of them!

 

[burleyman]

^^^^^ Duh, brain dead moment, thanks for the memory jog. Place the test leads directly to the battery posts. Try to start the vehicle. If the battery voltage drops to the 6-7 vdc posted earlier in the crank test, sounds like bad battery. The next paragraph is foolhardy, from many memories since the fifties, and should have a video in the Real Men of Genius Budweiser series.

I've seen almost countless times for over fifty years a shorting bar used as a battery current capacity tester. Most frequently, a pair of pliers, one handle held solidly on one post, then handles spread apart far enough to quickly touch and withdraw from the other battery post. If the battery is good, you can still use the pliers, although the handles get shorter and ugly. I've also seen expensive Klein long screwdrivers with zorched gaps. In desperation, I have used a piece of 12 or 10 gauge wire, pliers on each end, and watched for melting and quick smoke.

I don't even want acid-washed jeans.

 

[Uncle Jeffy]

This does not seem to fully fit the symptoms, but if it is a manual transmission, there is a safety switch that won't allow the starter to engage unless the clutch is depressed, even if it is not in gear. I had that switch fail and it took forever for the dealer to diagnose it. All the electrics were working, which made it a such a mystery. 2005 Xterra.

 

[Inyo_man]

Thanks for the replies.

The battery tests 12.6 volts at rest and 14.3 volts at idle. A load test with DVM is in spec.

It's an auto.

I haven't had a chance to try any more tests this week...work is getting in the way.

Cheers

 

[NatersXJ6]

When you say load test with DVM, what does that exactly mean? I don’t think I’ve ever done that before.

you’ve indicated that you have another vehicle to jump it with. Have you tried removing the terminals from the XTerra battery and flipping the jumper cables to them in open air? Essentially starting the XTerra only off the other vehicle and eliminating your battery from the system?

 

[Inyo_man]

Cranking Battery load test:

Disable ignition
Connect DVM to battery posts
Crank engine for 15 seconds while monitoring the DVM readings.
Battery should be at least 9.6 volts at the end of the 15 second load test with battery at 70 degrees F.
With battery at 60 degrees F., 9.5 volts. The reading should drop about 0.1 volts for every 10 degree drop in battery temp.

I haven't tried bypassing the battery in the Xterra with jumper cables.
I'll give it a try...thanks for the suggestion.

Cheers

 

[Inyo_man]

Thanks for everyone encouraging me to continue to look at the battery as the source of the issue.

I ran the load test again and it didn't pass.
It's a faulty battery as some folks had mentioned above.
Batteries Plus is replacing the battery under warranty.

Cheers

 

[outback97]

As one of the "faulty battery" suggesters earlier in the thread, thank you for the update.

I have some 18650 cells scavenged from a laptop sitting on my desk. I can put three of them in series and the voltage reads over 12V. But that doesn't mean it can start a car.

Our '09 Xterra has an Odyssey 34R AGM that's about 8 years old now. Still going, but at some point I'll need to replace it, and the one you mentioned you have is pretty highly regarded. Hopefully you're able to get a free warranty replacement.

 

[Inyo_man]

Batteries Plus is replacing it under warranty, no questions asked.

Cheers