Not So Modest 2000 (Gen 2.5) Montero Build

Shovel

Explorer
There is no USDM Montero without low range. There are 2wd Montero sports and there are gen 2.5 monteros with worn out shift fulcrums that need to be replaced. Ideally replacement should be attempted after reading about it because carelessly removing the wrong nuts can result in a bad day.

Assuring good ride quality is as easy as new bushings, new ball joints and well chosen shocks. A weekend project if you're handy. Mine rides awesome, zero log trucks.
 

zerodrift

Adventurer
Thanks for the info. If it is a bad low range selector (shift lever assembly) - I think I have a good condition spare on hand.

Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk
 

daddyusmaximus

Explorer
I'm very familiar with long term projects myself and have two in the garage. I never realized that there was a Montero without low range. Are you sure it doesn't have a low range? Struts and bushings should go a long ways to help with ride quality, as would tires.

Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk
The tires are new, Yokahama Geolander AT. Shocks are probably old as hell. They were on it when we got it, and my boy drove it for 3 years. Here she is...



Still not sure why I can't get it to go into low, but it works in high, and high locked. Not sure why there are two versions of high either unless one has a center diff that allows for some slippage. I'm used to old school stuff where you always get a 50/50 split with the t-case. If I used 4x4, I just go to high lock. I do know that the little 4x4 idiot light shows the front axle light blinking all the time it's in 2 high, so something is amiss with the system, but it works in 2 high, and it works in 4 high, so that's all I need for the snow. I can't really afford to put too much money into it. All my money (and there ain't much when you live on VA disability) is going towards the CJ7 build. I need to get the window fixed on the driver's door. It doesn't go down, and that is infuriating at the drive through window...

I did put a old set of HID lights on it tonight. They were leftovers off an old CJ5 I had. (same one that donated the powertrain for the CJ7)

 
Last edited:

zerodrift

Adventurer
The tires are new, Yokahama Geolander AT. Shocks are probably old as hell. They were on it when we got it, and my boy drove it for 3 years. Here she is...



Still not sure why I can't get it to go into low, but it works in high, and high locked. Not sure why there are two versions of high either unless one has a center diff that allows for some slippage. I'm used to old school stuff where you always get a 50/50 split with the t-case. If I used 4x4, I just go to high lock. I do know that the little 4x4 idiot light shows the front axle light blinking all the time it's in 2 high, so something is amiss with the system, but it works in 2 high, and it works in 4 high, so that's all I need for the snow. I can't really afford to put too much money into it. All my money (and there ain't much when you live on VA disability) is going towards the CJ7 build. I need to get the window fixed on the driver's door. It doesn't go down, and that is infuriating at the drive through window...

I did put a old set of HID lights on it tonight. They were leftovers off an old CJ5 I had. (same one that donated the powertrain for the CJ7)

The rig looks great!

I'll post a picture of the manual regarding the use of the transfer case. Few highlights:

-Shift 'points' via the transfer case lever are as follows: 2wd, 4wd open center (awd), 4wd locked center, 4wd low range with center locked.
-From 2wd, you can shift into 4wd and 4wd locked while driving provided t-case is warm and speeds are less than 60mph. Just ease of the gas when you did and it should engage smoothly. I don't generally recommend locking the center diff unless there is snow/dirt.
-Shifting into low range requires the car to be in neutral and you have to physically push the shift lever down towards the console, then to the left and forward. This prevents accidental engagement as the other modes are selectable while on the fly.
-If the t-case shift lever (ball) is damaged, you will have great difficulty getting any of the above to work smoothly.

I'll check to see if I have a spare t-case shift lever around. If so- you can have it for the price of shipping.
 
Last edited:

Shovel

Explorer
.. OK this isn't hard. Replacing your window motor assembly is like $50 and takes a half hour, it's easy AF.

Replacing your vacuum solenoids so your front axle engages properly and the blinking lights work is easy AF and costs 20 bucks.. it's like 10 minutes to fix. Then you also change the front diff fluid and hope it's not full of glitter because you didn't fix the easy AF solenoids in a timely fashion.

If your shift fulcrum is destroyed you replace that, either with the free one Zerodrift is offering or you buy a $25 shift fulcrum ball, you read the thousand or so write-ups on the internet for how to replace it so you don't make the big mistake some people make there, and you replace it. That's maybe an hour's easy work and you can do it all without leaving the cab of the Montero.

I don't want to be rude but damn these things are NOT that complicated, this is all easy stuff to fix and not expensive even. Throwing up your hands and doing nothing whatsoever to investigate or learn is not what men do, it's how you end up with your truck deteriorating and getting parted out or crushed for no reason and then you're stuck spending a lot bigger money getting a new truck long before you should have had to.
 

daddyusmaximus

Explorer
Thanks for the info and the help. I am not the man I used to be since I got my ass blowed up. I don't get around very easy, and have to work in short spurts with minimal bending, reaching, and twisting. Besides my budget, this is why the CJ7 is taking forever. My short term memory is also horrible. I remember stuff from 20 years ago, but learning new stuff isn't easy at all.

I couldn't even figure a way to get a stupid wire into the cab today to run a switch for the HIDs I put on last night. These newer vehicles just don't have any room to work. It's not like the old days when you could push an extra wire through the grommet... I gave up and paid $40 for one of those new wireless switches.
 

zerodrift

Adventurer
Thanks for the info and the help. I am not the man I used to be since I got my ass blowed up. I don't get around very easy, and have to work in short spurts with minimal bending, reaching, and twisting. Besides my budget, this is why the CJ7 is taking forever. My short term memory is also horrible. I remember stuff from 20 years ago, but learning new stuff isn't easy at all.

I couldn't even figure a way to get a stupid wire into the cab today to run a switch for the HIDs I put on last night. These newer vehicles just don't have any room to work. It's not like the old days when you could push an extra wire through the grommet... I gave up and paid $40 for one of those new wireless switches.
No worries man. I dug around and was able to find the transfer case shift lever if you want. Also, here are a few pictures of the manual for reference. Hope this helps you out.


Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk
 

zerodrift

Adventurer
The led headlight protect is essentially finished! Lights are installed and fully functional with exception to the high beams. I'm very pleased with the lightsso far! I'll share now details later, but will leave some pictures for now.


Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk
 

Saint Nick

Active member
Always liked the Pajero (the import version here in the UK), but never owned one. Really enjoying the thread (y)

Nick
 

daddyusmaximus

Explorer
Thanks. It may be a while before I tear into it and even see if I need that lever or if it's just the vacuum solenoids. To be honest, I never even knew you had to push down on the lever to go to low range, so I never tried that yet. (We don't have any owners manual.) I will here in a bit, and see what happens. KInda cool having both AWD, and 4WD. I'm learning about this thing AFTER I got it. My boy drove it 3 years and never used 4x4 but once. Just a kid driving a vehicle to college.

Those projectors put out good light. Curious as to why not go with HIDs? The LEDs don't put out any heat, and will freeze over with sleet and snow won't they? I put LEDs in my Marauder, and they did. Good light, but I didn't like them. Guess it don't matter now that I'm not driving it in the snow...
 
Last edited:

zerodrift

Adventurer
The lights are really bright and I'm exceedingly happy with the output. They do run a little warmer than the Trucklite led 5x7 units I have in my '87 MR2, but still not enough to fully melt ice. I'm relying on the headlight washers to help out with any icing problems and I'll report back if that is sufficient.

Daddyusmaximus- I do have a spare owners manual on hand as a heads up. Same deal as the shift lever assembly if you're keen.

Just started up my next project to improve upon the external storage. Going to modify the rear tire mount and am planning to add a storage rack above and a jerry can mount to the right of the spare. More to come on this project later.
 
Last edited:

zerodrift

Adventurer
Progress on the storage solution. Still needs a few more hours of work and paint. Time permitting, I'll have it powder coated to match the front bull bar. The box is a proxy for a 5 gallon jerry can. I've ordered a Wavian jerry can and will be fabricating a secure mount for it.
 
Last edited:
Top