Thanks. I'm not admittin' to nothin'. However, if I was to do it, I'd contact Idaho Rob at Adrenaline Truck for EFI Live tunes (5 switch). Perhaps I'd install all new exhaust (4" with muffler ) from Diamond Eye (downpipe back). And if I went that far, well an EGR delete seems in order so the pickup isn't breathing it's own farts. Cooler bypass too. That is, of course, if I was to do one. I think that's all. It's been a while.
Those Portland flat-landers think 1/2" is a blizzard! We're pretty icy over here, but no biggie. I really ought to get winter tires for my daily driver Corolla, but meh. I wish those storms that are slamming CA would move up here. I'd like to see a few more feet up at the Mountain.
The camper mounts (tie down points) are secured with 1/4" carriage bolts (full thread). Okanagan dropped the ball here. Due to a little mishap at the ski resort a week back, I actually snapped all three bolts (two vertical, one horizontal) for the passenger front mount (and tweaked the bolts on the driver's side front mount). I'm not impressed with the way the mounts are secured. It was easy to fix and I used Grade 8 bolts for the repair. Better than new now, but the whole setup is not as good as it could be. My full slide side as a slight sag under the slide. Although none of my pics show this as it's hidden, 1x1.5" wood is secured at the edge under the side walls (the truck bed cutout area) for strength (and gives an additional tie down bolting point for each of the 4 mounts). It's a poor implementation of an otherwise good design. I'm going to replace this wood with 1x1.5" .125 steel. That will keep everything perfectly straight and make the tie down mounts even more secure. I will wait for a warm-ish weekend next month for this mod. It's something I wanted to tackle last year, but after the mount failures, seems like a good time to address it. I thought about using T-6 aluminum as I have plenty of this on-hand. Although T-6 is more rigid than the fir or pine, I need the rigidity of steel for this mod. I'll likely make new mounts as well (and move the front mounts forward 1" from their present location). The area I'm discussing is behind the horizontal trim piece at the bottom on the camper wall (both sides):
I'll post up pics of the original setup and the mods when complete.
This might help others (campers, trailers, RVs, whatever). Our camper has always had something of a black tank smell to it. Sometimes not really noticeable, sometimes overwhelming. I tried everything: New vent caps and resealing, checking the black tank for leaks, changing the cheapie cheater vents at the sinks with quality units (in case sewer gasses somehow got into the grey tank), etc. Finally discovered the problem. The black tank rinse uses a vacuum breaker as the backflow preventer. This is actually quite common (code requirements). The problems are two fold: First, they leak a little when the water is flowing. In my case, it could leak a lot and it wouldn't matter due to its location. The big problem, for me, is when the water is not flowing (system not under pressure), the line that feeds into the black tank is open to the atmosphere. Well, duh. No wonder our camper stinks in high wind. Here is the offending unit:
I've ordered an inline check valve that will take care of the issue. In the interim, I've removed the vacuum breaker and have plumbed the lines directly to each other (not using the black tank rinse, so no fear of contamination of the clean water source). Happy to report, the stink has finally gone. This is a common problem (not sure why I didn't discover it a year ago), but if you're suffering a similar fate, this is the likely solution. There are a couple different options for a check valve: One offered by Camco (Amazon for all of $4.42) and there's one from Valterra for $11+.
Check valve installed. As the finally assembly was considerably longer than the original, and due to the way the PEX tubing was routed, I had to use a blow drier to heat up the PEX in order to curve it in such a way so I could thread the assembly (check valve, 90 degree pcv elbow and pcv nipple) into the system. Love the Rector Seal T2. Works perfectly and watertight.
Due to all the expensive electronics in the camper, I decided it was time to install a surge protector. I went with the Progessive Industries unit. Had to do some rearranging of the first auto transfer switch so I could install the surge protector in the same location. We possible, when plug in and when in Baja. I've often been concerned about voltage and polarity issues. Friend lost all kinds of appliances when plugged in at a local RV resort a couple years back, so I figure I was on borrowed time with our travels. Easy install.
I have that disease that often makes me buy too many motorcycles. I've sought treatment and it seems to be working. However, it has recently flared up again in a different form. I feel I need to get a Bigfoot 1002 (2008) camper. The reason for us is the Winter camping at the ski resort. We have to leave the full slide open, at a minimum, if wanting to access the bedroom (cabover) or bathroom. Gets to be a pain when the snow is dumping (I have to climb up and sweep off the slide awnings). Not a problem during normal camping, but we do a lot of Winter camping, so it is a bit of a drag. So, in search of a 2008 BF 1002 as that full room slide can be closed, yet there is access to bedroom and bathroom. Bigfoot has a lot of problems with that full wall slide (they should have taken a page out of Okanagan's playbook for that as the Okanagan setup is heaps better), but I suspect I can address those problems if they aren't too far gone. We shall see I suppose.
Almost lost the camper the other week. I had previously bent and straightened a rear jack, so it was now fatigued. High Gorge winds and the whole works nearly fell on it's nose when taking it off (the problem rear jack bent horribly and even a front jack bracket started to bend due to the situation). Was able to get the truck under it and save the day. Yesterday I replaced the front jacks with new Happijac 4800 jacks (2800# capacity per jack whereas my 4600 jacks have a 1900# capacity -That's a huge increase in capacity). I also replaced my suspect rear jack with the nicest of the front jacks. So, combined the front jacks have 1800# greater capacity. Someday I'll probably upgrade the rear jacks too. In addition to the increased cap, the zinc plating, internal wiper, and better powder coating, these 4800 are also around 2" longer. I really needed that extra length for my front jacks.
My next project is to find or build a small a hay wagon on which I'll set the camper for storage and gain the ability to move the camper into the shop. Actually, I could use one for the camper, for my Waverunner and even during my dune buggy build.
The 1/4" recycled rubber mat I was using in the bed really started failing this year. Decided to go back to using livestock mats like I had in my Silverado. Heavy as hell, but won't have the issues I was having with the thin mat. I went ahead and screwed the pieces in place as I really don't care to unload and load the biggest mat on a regular basis. Came out a-okay.
Going to use the left over livestock mat material to build some new jack pads (you should see the price they are selling these things for, which are, for all practical purposes, just cut up livestock mat material). I'll double up on them (mate them using stainless screws) and make four sets 2" thick. Should work better than the 2x6 boards I keep cracking. After that, the next thing is to pull out the welder and strengthen the dually brackets with some gussets.