Older Edgestar Fridge w/out low voltage cutoff...anyone add an external one??

cjthing

New member
Thanks DiploStrat! Based on the calculator I should be well below the max 3% voltage drop at 10A over a 15 ft run. I don't think I will be adding any additional solar panels so this should work fine.

Now to plan out how to route and mount everything...
 

DiploStrat

Expedition Leader
My pleasure. You are looking at such a low charge rate here that I would use just about the hottest profile that your solar controller has - say 14.5v or more.

Lead acids want to get to a full 14.x volts as often as possible.

 

cjthing

New member
Appreciate the recommendation on the charge rate DiploStrat!

Solar arrived today minus the tray cables from controller to battery, those should be here tomorrow.

I am hoping to get it all installed tomorrow if possible. I see the controller has a voltage and temp sensor so keeping the controller as close as possible to the battery, while still in the cab, is a good idea. It looks like I could mount the controller "in" the glovebox, against the back. This would allow for a direct line to the battery and keep wires pretty short. That should keep the controller dry, ventilated enough, and away from the kids hands. Now to figure out how to get cables from panel into the cab. Any ideas are welcome, don't want to drill through the roof if possible. The cables are fairly large but might be able to be squeezed through the door seals. Any ideas welcome...
 

DiploStrat

Expedition Leader
I am not the best at this and I missed what type of vehicle.

That said, I don't like Raton Miguelito wires through weather seals. Look at the techniques used for roof top antennae and top mounted lights. I like a down lead and then a proper, sealed gland or similar. You can then run the wires inside the vehicle, under carpets, etc. Be generous with split loom or similar to protect against wires chaffing.

Good luck!
 

cjthing

New member
So didn't get as far as I would have liked yesterday but have a game plan. I can route the solar cables in the same manner I have routed some wiring for roof mounted lights on the roof rack. Initially I didn't think the cables would be long enough but should be ok. Ill update once I have more install info!

Thanks again all!!!
 

cjthing

New member
The Victron Smart Battery Protect in 65A is on its way. The manual states adding a fuse between the battery and unit, but they don't specify the size. I assume 65 amp to coincide with the unit rating. The illustration shows a "mega" fuse but again no indication of size.

I don't plan on adding an alarm, relay, or switch at this point.

Any other use/programming tips?
 

cjthing

New member
Solar is installed but have not had a chance to install the battery protect. Took a quick weekend family camping trip and the solar is keeping the truck charged with fridge use and kids opening doors constantly.

The Renogy solar controller, went with the Adventurer, had a few errors for high battery temperature however. The temperature sensor is located just above the battery and its obviously hot under the hood climbing Vail pass when its 90 degrees out in CO. The controller resets once the temp drops and charging continues. These kind of temps are an issue for the Victron Battery Protect that is sitting on the workbench. I see Victron wants the battery protect within 20 inches of the battery, which means it needs to be under the hood. Need to try to see what can be done about that.
 

luthj

Engineer In Residence
If you are using a remote temp sensor, its best to attach it directly to the battery terminal. Otherwise glue it to the battery case, and cover with a piece of half in closed cell foam. That will hopefully prevent it from getting heated so quickly by the hot air.
 

cjthing

New member
Thanks luthj, what do you mean by "attach to the battery terminal"? I am open to ideas to keep hot air off the sensor.
 

dreadlocks

Well-known member
Size of the Fuse is not determined by the Battery Protect, but the supporting electrical wire.. it needs to be such that its high enough to avoid nuisance trips by your appliances, but low enough that it'll pop before wires start to melt and start a fire.

Use this for helping you pick an appropriate fuse: http://circuitwizard.bluesea.com/

Though a 65A fuse is probably fine and would pop at the point in which the battery protect would be overloaded (it shuts down in overload, wont hurt it), it may be too big depending on how its wired.
 

luthj

Engineer In Residence
One approach is just to epoxy the sensor inside of the barrel of a ring terminal. Then attach the ring terminal to the batteries stud/terminal. The battery terminal will always be close to the battery core temp.
 

cjthing

New member
I like the epoxy idea, the sensor end is quite large but Im sure it can still be done. The link is awesome Dreadlocks, appreciate it.

I do think the high temps under the hood are a potential issue for the Victron battery protect however. I have seen 145 degrees on the controller, decreasing the rating down 40% of the max 65A. I don't see a way to change that unfortunately. Open to ideas but doubt anything can be done.
 

dreadlocks

Well-known member
the reason it wants to be so close to the battery is so any voltage drop is negligible.. these forums are full of fridge owners w/built in LVD's having issues operating em on any significant distance of wiring.

however if you are concerned about heat, you can put it some place more appropriate.. what you'll want to do is oversize the wiring going between the battery and LVD substantially that the voltage drop is negligible.. if you run 3-4ft of like 4-8awg to the LVD, and then from there split off to your circuitry w/more reasonable cable.. the voltage drop between the battery and LVD would be minimal.. look online for voltage drop calculators, run the numbers.. try to keep the drop within 1-2% and choose what gauge cable to use.
 

cjthing

New member
Thanks dreadlocks, I don't think I have a choice but to locate the LVD further from the battery as the heat will be an issue. I will look into the voltage drop calculator and adjust the wiring as necessary.

It never ends....my fridge cigarette lighter connection is being finicky so time to change that plug and power source to the fuse block in the rear when the LVD goes in.

Thanks again all for the help, much appreciated!
 
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