Opinions on Ready Lift levelling kits?

OutOfBounds

Adventurer
I had my 2005 Tundra in for an oil change today and got to talking to the parts guy since I'd like to put a levelling kit in this year. Toytec seems to be the primo choice. Unfortunately, the Toyota dealership doesn't sell them. They can install them, but their techs haven't seen them much so he said it may take longer than it should. He quoted me roughly $800 just for install. That puts me up around $2000 for parts and labour combined.

He then mentioned the Ready Lift kits they do sell and install. Likely around the $1000 ball park all said and done.

I don't wheel hard, rough gravel roads at 60 - 80km/h is the craziest stuff my truck sees. No rock crawling, mud bogging etc.

Does anyone have any thoughts on Ready Lift? Long term reliability, quality, functionality?

Also, I'm planning to put new tires on my truck. Probably 265/75/R16 in size. What size level should I get to make sure I have enough clearance and it doesn't look stupid? LOL
 

Shradicalwyo

Adventurer
You can fit a 265/75 on Tundras without any lift, I did that last year on stock wheels and now on my scs f5s and I didn't rub at all on stock trd suspension.

Is the ready lift a spacer style lift? I've heard the ride quality on those is terrible.
 

marathonracer

Adventurer
Why not run a set of 5100s instead...for the price you would have a new shock and a lift system that is specifically designed not to limit up travel or over extend down travel. If you Google 5100 vs spacer there's a pdf file from bilstein explaining this.

Fwiw I have an 06 DC with 5100s set on the 4th notch and the truck is level without touching the rear (no block or AAL).
 

marathonracer

Adventurer
I got mine from wheelers offroad around 230 bucks so exactly the same price point. Install is easy since it's just basically changing the shock. There were some quality control issues a few years ago but that seems to be resolved.
 

OutOfBounds

Adventurer
I take it you only need to do the front then eh? If I swap out the rear shocks (may as well do it all at the same time), I'd assume I leave the rear shocks at the factory height (first notch?) and adjust the front to suit.
 

Idaholandho

The other white meat
I take it you only need to do the front then eh? If I swap out the rear shocks (may as well do it all at the same time), I'd assume I leave the rear shocks at the factory height (first notch?) and adjust the front to suit.

Excellent advice. Do all 4, it may be time anyway.
 

OutOfBounds

Adventurer
Excellent advice. Do all 4, it may be time anyway.

I figure so. I just turned over 140,000kms (87000 miles). I'm sure they could be done soon.

I just need to figure out if I'm able to tackle compressing the coil over spring. Not sure if it's something I want to tackle in case I mess it up or it takes longer that I plan. The Tundra is our only vehicle and I can't afford to have it sit on stands for a few days while I work my way through a job I've never done before.
 

marathonracer

Adventurer
Rear 5100s aren't height adjustable like the fronts. They are a longer shock so they can accommodate a rear lift option if need be but are also fine with just a stock rear end.

I have 5100s up front and 4600 HD in the rear since the PO had just replaced the rears. When it's time I'll be changing them for 5100s in the rear as well.
 

chaingangster

Observer
I just removed a Truxx strut-top spacer "lift kit" from the front of my '03 Tundra 4x4 Access Cab. Installed 5100s all around and set the fronts on the third notch. Night and day difference! Can't believe I didn't do it years ago. I did everything in my driveway and used a spring compressor from the local auto parts store. I was a bit nervous about the compressor ahead of time, and honestly, a bit during (that's a lot of force!) the spring swap, but I went slow and careful and it really wasn't that bad. Got an alignment afterwards, and the truck is driving great. I did make sure to get the new Bilstein 5100 part number that replaced the previous one... I read they made some minor changes and figured it'd be best to get their latest revision. I don't know if it truly matters, but there are a lot of vendors that still list the old p/n.

*Edit: I just clicked your link to the Ready-Lift. That is the same product as the "Truxx" strut-top spacer I just removed. DON'T DO IT!! The strut-top spacer makes the factory strut longer than intended by the full thickness of that spacer (approx 1.5") which messes up the geometry between the upper and lower control arms, effectively overextending the lower control arm as well as allowing the upper control arm to contact the coil spring whenever the suspension tops out (pothole, speed-bump, etc). Those spacers were on my truck when I bought it (I didn't know any better and it "looked cool"), and I just dealt with them for the last 8-9 years, driving slowly and cautiously offroad and hearing a horrible "clunk" whenever on rougher roads. Again, in retrospect, I can't believe I dealt with it for so long, but sometimes you just get used to things and roll with them, for better or worse. But, hopefully I can prevent anyone else from making the same mistake!

In reality, most suspension modifications takes away from the original design and engineering, but some options are better then others. If I had the budget I'd probably consider some Icons along with upgraded upper control arms, but the Bilsteins seem pretty good for the money. I've put a few hundred miles on them so far, with quite a bit of forest service roads in the mix, and they feel controlled and smooth. Thanks, and good luck with whatever route you take!
 
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OutOfBounds

Adventurer
Thanks for the info and the first hand experience with the Ready Lift system! That settles it for me, Bilstein it is. :) I'll try to schedule the job for a long weekend, so I have lots of time to figure my way through it.
 

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