OVRLND CAMPERS ONLY : Post your OVRLND Camper build here or a link to your build thread to inspire others!

PirateMcGee

Expedition Leader
That’s what I figured on the frame. Wouldn’t make sense to do it otherwise.

What do you use your hatch for if you don’t mind me asking? Have you gotten use out of it?


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I'm still a few weeks out from picking mine up. Won't be figuring out my layout until it's in hand but some thoughts are access to dry kitchen goods, small AC unit (if I have shore power), act as a vent/window when down below or top isn't popped, and lastly attach commonly needed items to the inside of the door so I can easily popup it and grab them (like a jet boil, lighter, rag, etc.)
 

dstefan

Well-known member
Other question: hatches and side windows??? My initial thought was no on the hatch because the bed side of my truck is over chest high and no on the window for security. But a screened side window would make it so I could get away with one fan and make for good airflow. And a hatch may provide option down the road. Would do a flip down hatch but I don’t think it’ll work given the wide fenders on the TRX
I‘m a fan of the hatches. Have two flip ups. I access my battery thru one (largely to plug in portable solar—trying to avoid anything on the roof). Have my Maxxtrax mounted vertically to the other side on the cab bulkhead and I can reach in, unbolt them and pull out through the window. I also have a screen that velcros to one window, but haven’t needed it yet

I’m 6’2” and my truck is pretty lifted. The bottom of the window opening comes nearly to my armpit, but I can still reach miscellaneous stuff. I find them really handy and use them a lot. Do plan ahead for what you want to do on interior build though as the hatches force the configuration a bit.
 

aaaslayer

Active member
Appreciate the feedback. Fortunately I think I have some time for the final decision and will certainly discuss options with Jay. My intent would be to have the layout the same just not have them cut the holes. This would also allow me to decide in sections if I want 1 or 2 fans. There shouldn’t be any welding necessary as part of this and never have had to weld in all the fans I’ve installed in various previous builds. I get the “what’s another $200” position but it all adds up. Difference between an all in build and a basic build is like $4000.

Other question: hatches and side windows??? My initial thought was no on the hatch because the bed side of my truck is over chest high and no on the window for security. But a screened side window would make it so I could get away with one fan and make for good airflow. And a hatch may provide option down the road. Would do a flip down hatch but I don’t think it’ll work given the wide fenders on the TRX

Anyone have thoughts on those two parts or can share what you are using your side hatches for?


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edit: I just saw someone mention that fan or no fan, the roof framing layout is the same. So if that is the case, then yes just cut and fit. I thought the framing would be slightly different if there was no fan, hence why I thought you'd have to cut into framing and dowels to get a fan in there and then have to reweld if necessary. My mistake on that!


As for hatches and side windows, I did not want side windows or front or rear. For security reasons, privacy, and I simply wanted a heavy duty rugged look without glass back there. I got 2 flip up hatches, and love them. I'll eventually put bug mesh with magnetic strips so I can remove them if I need to. Hatches look great, and function great, I love them. They provide a ton of airflow and are functional. If you're worried about bugs, just put mesh screen, it's sold on Amazon. If getting side hatches, I highly recommend you get add on latches on the inside. It's an added feature, $30 per hatch iirc. Allows you to lock the hatches from inside so you don't have to walk outside to lock up for the night. I'm building side benches in the truck bed and plan to attach with L track a 7 gallon water jug with spigot I got on Walmart right by the hatch so when camping, the hatch is open, I just walk up to the spigot to get water for drinking or cooking or even washing hands or hair. I can see several uses for hatches, it's better to get them as trying to add them down the road would likely be impossible once your camper is already framed out unless you can Tig weld yourself. Otherwise adding them down the road means you'd have to cut off the studs and reposition them to allow room for hatches.
 

aaaslayer

Active member
Here's a quick update...been really busy with work so haven't had much time to finish up the benches. I work on them like 30 mins every couple days so the progress is sloooow
 

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dstefan

Well-known member
Barndoors definitely make getting in and out easier, but at night we would pull the bed out and read for a while with the tailgate up and the doors closed and then get out one last time to pee. it’s a total PITA to open the doors and drop the tailgate, or climb over — sketchy back for me and my wife’s pretty short for hopping down from a lifted truck.

Also, the back of our campers leave you completely open visually when you’re not the only rig. Plus noisy when others are nearby and its late and you’re opening and slamming the tailgate and doors.

We thought some sort of curtain in the back would be useful when the weather is not super cold to leave the doors open and the tailgate down while inside and in certain circumstances where we wanted privacy.

We asked Jay and he got his person who makes the thermal liners to make us a two part curtain out of the same material for the rear opening from our design and measurements. Also easy enough to make yourself if your sewing machine can do thicker stuff. Ours wont. We haven’t used this yet, but in preparation for a trip next week we tried it today.
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Works great! We already had Velcro all around the door opening and the sides of the bed to fit a screen. The curtain has Velcro on the top and two sides and is in two pieces. One of the pieces also has Velcro all the way down the edge and it just sticks lightly to the other material. Release it to peel up and get out or in.

It lets in a fair amount of light, and we were surprised that on a chilly day in Phoenix we noticed it being warmer a bit inside once we put it up. On really cold nights we might put it up as extra insulation over the doors, which have a lot of thermal bridging.

Since screens have been mentioned recently, we took at @Pshin ’s suggestion on this screen:

One of their sizes happened to be the perfect width for our rear opening. We used the Velcro it comes with to attach around the door to do double duty with our curtain. Since it’s a Sliding door screen, it’s quite long, so we use the cut off portion to make a window screen for one hatch.
 
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EX121

New member
I keep changing my mind about adding the extra height. I wonder what the % of campers are built with the extra roof height? I'm 6 foot tall so the added height may be a benefit. And the ability to have more bedding without moving it often. Do these benitis outweigh the add wind resistance the height entails.
 

jagarcia89

Active member
I keep changing my mind about adding the extra height. I wonder what the % of campers are built with the extra roof height? I'm 6 foot tall so the added height may be a benefit. And the ability to have more bedding without moving it often. Do these benitis outweigh the add wind resistance the height entails.

Same here. But currently leaning toward the 10” based on Jay’s input and some folks in the FB group. I think the more stuff I can fit up top keeps the truck bed clear and it sounds like the additional 2.5” won’t have much affect on MPG


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dstefan

Well-known member
I keep changing my mind about adding the extra height. I wonder what the % of campers are built with the extra roof height? I'm 6 foot tall so the added height may be a benefit. And the ability to have more bedding without moving it often. Do these benitis outweigh the add wind resistance the height entails.
FWIW I’m 6’2” and have the 10” cabover. I like the extra height a lot. I can sit up straight in bed and standing I can stretch with my arms up w/ my elbows bent at 90°. We can also leave everything (2 thick Thermarests folded over in thirds placed on either side, two sleeping bags, multiple pillows) in the bed with the top down. Its stuffed but not enough to interfere with the top coming down, though I can see where the bedding presses a little on the headliner/insulation. Keep in mind you can’t put a lot under the hinge mechanism, but I know Jay’s changed the type, at least for the bolt on cabover style.

The other thing is its nice to have the extra headroom with the top down to move around easily. I can sit on the bench seat and clear the ceiling as long as I’m comfortably slouched at a slight angle. The other plus is that we’ll often park for the the night facing the sun (when its warmer to keep less canvas in the sun or its windy) and just pop the back for shade or more wind block. There’s plenty of room to walk around up-right with the top in the wedge configuration that way with bed still stowed.

WRT air resistance, mine is about 70” wide. Doing the math says the 8” to 10” difference in sq. inches is about 25%, so I’m sure it hurts, but driving over 65 and vehicle mods probably has a greater impact. We did drive into 40 to 50mph headwinds last year for a long way and could really feel the impact, but don't think 2” less would have made that much difference. Making sure you have a small cabover to cab roof gap is probably just as important. Mine is a litte more than I’d like due to the *&#$& shark fin sticking up. Did not notice any real difference from driving the stock truck up to get the camper installed and then back with the empty camper. Best I could tell from that trip the camper cost us about 1.5 mpg, but thats just a estimate .

Clearly a personal decision, based on your size and how you think youll use it and drive with it on. Hope this helps!
 

PirateMcGee

Expedition Leader
I keep changing my mind about adding the extra height. I wonder what the % of campers are built with the extra roof height? I'm 6 foot tall so the added height may be a benefit. And the ability to have more bedding without moving it often. Do these benitis outweigh the add wind resistance the height entails.

I went back and forth too but ultimately went with the AF 7.5". Reason being is that I travel a lot of remote roads when hunting and there are always lots of low hanging branches and the lower the better for the camper. I am also only 6' so I should still have plenty of room and I went with a fullsize truck instead of a midsize so it should feel roomy. My wife and I made our square drop and midsize SUV work well so this will seem cavernous by comparison. Also pretty sure I can close the top without stacking the bed since I have have a 78" truck bed so I can probably leave bedding up there full time.

The AF is also a bit sleeker design and will be easier to build out and mount an awning or lights to. Pros and cons to everything. If I had a midsize truck I definitely would go with the full 10" height.
 

padavi

New member
I keep changing my mind about adding the extra height. I wonder what the % of campers are built with the extra roof height? I'm 6 foot tall so the added height may be a benefit. And the ability to have more bedding without moving it often. Do these benitis outweigh the add wind resistance the height entails.

I just picked up my OVRLND last week and am glad I got the extra height. I think you would be fine standing regardless of the extra 2". I am 6'6" and would have room to spare if not for the DIY drawers that raise the floor to wheel well height. The real benefit is in the bedding area, where we can leave the bed made and with minimal effort be packed up and moving. Unless you are worried about clearance like @PirateMcGee mentioned, the extra height is a great benefit.
 

Jascra

New member
This is a great thread with a ton of information and ideas in it. We're scheduled for install on 3/10 and looking forward to getting some use out of it to determine how we want to make the space work for us.
We kept our options simple, in our minds anyway - Full barn doors w/windows, front slide window, having them install a Maxxfan Deluxe I shipped to them and the 2" extra cab height.
 

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