Pop top atv trailer

#1
Greetings all. I am in the process of building a "different" form of expedition trailer. The trailer will have three primary functions. First, it will be a cargo trailer pulled behind my truck or G-Wagon. The cargo will be my ATV (and various hunting or fishing gear). Second, it will have sleeping provisions for 2-4. Third, when the going gets too tough for the truck or G-Wagon, I can remove the atv from the trailer and hitch the trailer behind the atv and haul the trailer in to the desired spot. I might add that I live in northern Alberta Canada, so the trailer must be insulated and have heat for our 6 months of winter. The trailer frame has been built out of aluminum. It has a timbren axle-less suspension (3,500 lbs, 15 in tires), five welded on jack points, a max coupler hitch and provision to move the coupler to the rear of the trailer. Total weight is 570 lbs, with a tongue weight of 90 lbs. The tire center to center is the same as the truck (67 inches) and just a few inches wider than the G-Wagon. My goal is to keep the trailer under 950 lbs. Pics following. Now I have to build the box on top and will be seeking some advice on the build ab_181231_offroad trailer v 3.34 driver side pop up.jpg ab_181231_offroad trailer v 3.34 frame only.jpg ab_181231_offroad trailer v 3.34 frame only.jpg ab_181231_offroad trailer v 3.34 passenger side.jpg
 

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#4
I look forward to following your build.

I was surprised to see the limited ground clearance (14") on the tongue. Do you not plan to go off road with it.

Curious how tall you are. Looks like you have about 65"without the pop top. Or is that for an elevated bed.

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#5
Plans for the box. Dual cargo doors at the rear, 5' wide x 5' high. A small drop down door on either side of the trailer near the front where the bunk beds will be side to side. As the box is 70" wide, the drop downs will each have small waterproof sock attached so that the sleeping area can be extended to 84" long (note one high and one low on either side). Very plain on the inside with only the two bunk beds at the front. Heat will be by a propex propane heater mounted outside and vented inside. Now for the big question. Do I make it out of wood myself or have someone else make it out of aluminum. The pros for the wood construction are that I am family with wood and epoxy construction, having built some small boats. Wood would be 1/4" okoume marine grade plywood on the outside (sealed with epoxy) with 1x2 fir studs, foam insulation and 1/8 plywood on the inside. I feel that the wood construction would be extremely strong and durable with all the gusseting strength of the plywood stiffened by the studs. My big concern is how to finish the outside. What works best? I've heard mixed reviews with truck box liner. What else is there that would give me a good looking and hard wearing surface? Light aluminum? I kind of want it to look like the outlaw trailer attached. 2017-12-19 12.24.31.png
 
#6
The G-Wagon has 11.5" clear ground clearance, the truck 9.3" and the ATV 10". This has 18" in the middle. I'm hoping that the 14" at the front is plenty. If I went higher then it would be difficult to hitch it up to the ATV and the trailer would get quite top heavy. Lets put it this way, the trailer will be pulled to where it cannot go further. Then, the ATV or the G-Wagon goes by itself.
 
#10
Thank you Albatross. I will have double cargo doors at the rear but need the side door for access to the bunk beds at the front when I have cargo. A few questions. How long ago was your trailer painted and how has the paint stood up? Did you put down an epoxy sealer first? Do you have any photos?
 
#11
ATV's are Yamaha Grizzly 550 and 700. Towing capacity is 1322 lbs. We tow utility trailers to our remote Moose camps every year. Two years ago my trailer, coming back, held a moose, two deer, and a bear. So well over 1500 lbs. But fairly flat terrain, but muddy.
 
#12
Does anyone have a flooring material they can recommend that is lighter than 5/8" fir plywood (approx 2lbs per square foot). Maximum span is 29" x 29". Max weight in that 29" square is 200lbs (me standing).
 
#13
You know how nasty ATVs get in terrain you find moose in so make the interior of the trailer of both waterproof materials and easily washable. Having drain plugs in the floor might not be a bad idea either.
 
#14
For the flooring I found 2'' HD foam covered with fiberglass with crossed linked (roisé lié )pattern .Is strong light easy to do . Very light .If done in 18'' are so wide blocks that gives two I beam down the center . Where you do the top first it will pull away from the foam as fiberglass shrinks the gab can be refilled with can foam Just some to think about. I plan to do the trailer that is being constructed at this time floor this way should have pictures in a few weeks
Will you buy are build the top crossed hinges for the lifting roof ?
 
#15
Drain plugs is a really great idea that I had not thought of. Thanks. As for the top crossed hinges, I think I am going to use hydraulic lifters similar to the attached. Has anyone any thoughts on the installation of the lifters....positioning, angle, etc. 4w top 1.jpg 4w top 2.jpg 4w top 3.jpg
 
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