Port Renfrew Winter 2022 Camping Trip

SFP

Member
Part Four - Friday Morning

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Honestly few things in this world make me as happy as waking up inside my tent on a camping trip. Although it was a chilly 2 C/35 F I had had one of the best sleeps in ages (yeah a few Nutrls may have helped with that). Given that Snowman had brought along her Buddy heater I decided against a morning fire. I have to say I am impressed. For a little unit, it gave off enough heat to warm us both as I got out the trusty Coleman camp stove and started it up for boiling water and coffee. I plan on buying the larger version of the Mr. Heater, The Buddy Flex when money allows.

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I am sure there are people out there who never forget anything, but myself I have just learned that yeah I forget the odd thing from time to time - never anything vital mind you, but creature comforts. This trip that included coffee, sugar and dish soap. Thankfully Snowman had brought along tea, sugar and we had hand soap to use. First up, boil the water for tea. Next was scrabbled eggs, bacon and toast - why do scrambled eggs always taste better at a campsite?

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Breakfast complete, dishes washed, tent and site cleaned up we heard out. First stop was a place to grab a coffee, because well I enjoy tea but I really wanted a good coffee. Next stop was to the Ambulance Station 115 to have my hand looked at, and to give Snowman some piece of mind.

We pulled into the station and following protocols, masked up and went to knock on the door. A paramedic greeted us and we explained what had happened and he said give him a moment and he would pull the ambulance out and take a look. I proceeded to get into the ambulance, removed the glove from my left hand as I explained what had happened in detail and what we had done to treat it. He was impressed as he removed the bandages and we laughed when I said I used vodka to clean the wound. As we joked about men being dumb and the fact I would now have a nice fresh tattoo from this trip as he gently cleaned the wound, applied fresh dressing including more suture strips, gave us some more suture strips, gauze and covering bandages and said get a tetanus booster when I got back home.
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Once again Thank You Canada for Universal Healthcare. It didn’t cost me a penny and Snowman was happy to have piece of mind that I was okay and we had treated it right. First aid training and a good first aid kit - worth every penny if one is going to be spending time in the wilderness/back country.

Next stop the local general store, which also happens to be the local postal office as well as liquor store. Some instant coffee, dish soap and some snacks for the day and off we head into the back country.

Leaving town and back across the long single lane bridge that takes you to the campground we took the right at the fork in the road to the next single lane bridge with comes to the T intersection on the Pacific Rim Circle Route and hung a left towards the Gordon River Main Rd. This road is easily accessible with a car or RV but it is part of an active logging road network so be aware. I pulled over and shifted into 4 high. Although there is pavement for the first bit it soon is a gravel road where one needs to pick a line to avoid damage to your rig. This also means you’re not flying down it.

The first stop was at Avatar Grove to get out and stretch the legs. We didn’t end up hiking it this time, but it’s an amazing place which includes Canada’s Gnarliest Tree in the upper grove. There were a couple of cross-over type SUVs parked on the side of the road - on the trip here the only other traffic had been a couple of lifted F250s. Almost a busy day for the region given the time of year. Again there is no cell service here so people use a CB or VHF mobile system if something goes wrong.
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AS Snowman and I got back into the Jimmy a Lincoln SUV with Alberta plates was coming along and they tucked in behind us. It’s roughly a forty minute drive from the campground to Big Lonely Doug. After Avatar Grove the roads get rougher. Ten or fifteen minutes after Avatar Grove you’ll come to a fork in the road and one of the big rocks in the centre of the fork has Big Lonely Doug spray painted on it - The fork to the right is the Edinburgh Main Rd. Taking the right we headed down towards bridge that crosses the Gordon River. It’s worth a stop here to get out and look. Just be careful as there are no real fences/railings and it’s a long way down. Just past the bridge there is a spot one can park and start the hike towards Big Lonely Doug. However a few minutes down the road which has gotten damn rough at this point and should only be attempted with something with some ground clearance there is a pull out/parking spot before the 4-wheel drive section of the road begins.

The photos do not do the grade or how rough it is any justice. Could it be done with a 2wd truck? Probably. With a car? Doubtful. RV? Again doubtful. Unless it is raised and has a rear locker I wouldn’t try. I pulled into the pull off to air down my tires, and the Lincoln decided that was the end of the road for them and they turned around and headed back. I also took the time to get out and walk the hill to pick my line, and while doing so a fellow Four Wheel Drive Association of BC member came down in his tricked out Gladiator. He stopped, we said hello, noticed we were both club members, and I asked how the road was. he said this was the worst, pick your line and try and stick to the right and air down. I thanked him got back into the Jimmy, and shifted into 4 low.

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It was roughly 12:30 so with the winter daylight hours in mind, up the hill I went. The truck handled the hill with zero problems, no slips, no spins - she just crawled as I picked my line. A few more minutes down the road and I pulled into the Big Doug pull off spot. It’s an amazing place to camp, an open valley that is surrounded by the hills and mountain tops of the area. The peaks all had snow showing and it was a typical west coast overcast and foggy afternoon but breath-taking none the less. We decided to park there and do the walk to Big Lonely Doug which is about a ten minute walk down the road, followed by a trail that you hike down to the majestic giant.
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I am doing a separate write up for Big Lonely Doug as well as Eden Grove because I feel they deserve it.
 

SFP

Member
Part Five - Big Lonely Doug

The Map of The Giants and Driving Directions
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I have been wondering how to post photos of Big Lonely Doug. The reality is even a full-frame camera cannot do this majestic tree justice. It's size is hard to wrap one's mind around, and only seeing him in person can truly do justice to this giant.

Big Lonely Doug was "discovered" in the winter of 2011 (yes that recent). He was discovered by a life-long logger who's job it was to survey cutblocks. Upon seeing Doug the logger made a choice - a choice which saved Big Lonely Doug for the rest of us.

Doug is the second largest Douglas Fir in Canada.
He is 66 meters tall (216.5 feet)
He is 4 meters wide (13.1 feet)
He has a circumference of 12 meters (39.3 feet)

Doug is estimated to be over a thousand years old possibly 1100 years old. Think about that number for a moment and all that has happened during the last thousand years.
Meeting Doug is something I can't really put in words. But everyone I know who has made the trip to see and touch Doug has been touched by his being. People describe almost religious/spiritual experiences upon laying hands on his trunk. No matter how tough a person one is, you'll shed a tear or more. Doug is Not Just a Tree - he is something more, something our world needs.

I have been going to see Big Lonely Doug since 2012. Prior to the trip this past weekend I had not been to see him since 2014. I have only ever taken less than a handful of people to meet Doug.

Why? Why so few people? Because for years I shared locations and watched them get destroyed by tourists and people who don't understand the concept of "tread lightly", "pack out what you pack in" and "leave no trace". I stand by that choice.

But times change. Less than 10 percent of the old growth that once covered Vancouver Island is left. Eden Grove which is down the road past Doug is a thing of beauty & magic and is currently unprotected. And it is my opinion that without educating the public the fight to save the last of these giants is doomed. Humanity and mankind has proven time and time again that the all mighty dollar and greed will win 99% of the time. So as a steward of the land as it were, I feel responsible to educate people about these trees and why it is important we all work together to save them.

The town of Port Renfrew has been my own private hideaway spot since 1996. I have gotten to know the locals over the years, developed deep friendships with people there and watched the little town change as the highway was made RV friendly and eco-tourism became a thing. The town now hands out maps to help tourists find these giants and a big part of me thinks this is a good thing.

Where once I would be one of maybe five campers at the campground during the winter months, now the campsite is booked and packed. Where once I could drive in the back country for a day and not see another human being now I run into people every twenty minutes or so until I get deep into the back country. Where once there was a handful of people who knew the locations of the giants and these groves, now their are maps, road signs, directional signs.

As Bob Dylan wrote, "the times they are a changing”.

With that, here are my first few photos of Big Lonely Doug.

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And courtesy of Snowman, a few of me and Big Lonely Doug
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Great post! I stumbled upon Point Renfrew with some buddies in the 80s and have not been back in 30+ years...it was awesome then and looks just as wild and worthwhile to visit again. Thanks for reminding me of this treasure :) I think it is gone now, but there was this harrowing suspension bridge you had to drive across coming from Saanich Lake. It was called Bedspring Bridge and it was crazy.
 
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bikerjosh

Explorer
Wow, thanks for posting your trip and the awesome photos. Brings back memories. Back in 94' my Dad and I back packed the West Coast Trail, starting at Port Renfrew in May right after the trail was opened for the season (ie before at least one rope bridge had been rebuilt). Nothing quite like approaching a gorge/bluff/cliff where a rope bridge (on the map)leads across to the other side, only to discover the bridge was destroyed by a winter storm and in it's place is a big rope with knots leading down to the beach below and another on the other side of the gorge to get back up to the trail. Great trip as long as you are prepared, and watching tide tables to avoid getting caught in a surge channel. After we completed the trail we drove up the island checking out several spots including Tofino before catching a ferry at Nanaimo and heading for Priest Lake in Northern Idaho.
 

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