Post up your drawer/storage system

fireball

Explorer
Very nice!

Do you holes cut at the rear of the fridge box for ventilation? I talked to a guy who built something similar then burned up his compressor because he made the box too tight!
 

OregonLC

Observer
There's at least 1-1/2" on all sides for ventilation. I thought about putting vents in it, but on the ARB the compressor is on the back left. On the left side it's flush up against the drawer unit. On the back it's flush up against the water tank. So there wouldn't be much opportunity for air to circulate anyway. I think the space around it should be sufficient. If you think about it, that's the same way your fridge operates at home - inside an enclosure with a tight fit and only small gaps around it. Can't be any worse than having gear piled in around it like it's been for the last several years.

I'll monitor it and if there's a heat issue I have a plan to put a 90mm case fan on the right side of the enclosure blowing fresh air in. But I *think* I'll be ok. At least up here in the PNW.
 

OregonLC

Observer
All of the sides are bright galvanized. Drawer bottoms and faces are ply. Top, bottom, and back are ply.

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Herbie

Rendezvous Conspirator
Nice.

I would love to see how you attached the drawer sides and bottoms. L brackets?
I did something very similar. My sides/front/back are made from 3"x1"x1/8" angle aluminum that I mitered using a compound miter saw with a wood blade:

(Note that my metal bandsaw was offline that day, or I could have used that, or even a hacksaw in a miter box to get the same results.)

My bottom is 1/8" carbon fiber plate that I had lying around, but could have also been just about any sheet material or wood*:


I drilled through the bottom and into the angle pieces, then tapped the angle pieces for 8-32 screws and just fastened the CF to the angles with button head screws. The whole drawer weighs less than 1lb but easily holds me standing on it. This is how I used to build my Battlebots back in the day.

*Note that the only "problem" with this method is that currently there's nothing holding the sides directly to the back/front - only the tension on the bottom keeps everything lined up, so it helps that my bottom piece is very rigid. My miter saw cuts cleanly so I don't have any gaps, but with less precise corners, or a more flexible bottom material, you might have small gaps at the corners. For added strength a few corner braces of aluminum angle riveted or screwed to the sides/back would tighten everything up even more, but I didn't think it necessary for a drawer of this size with what I'm likely to load into it (stove, utensils, etc.)
 

Rezarf <><

Explorer
Thanks guys. These projects are fun!

I own a construction and renovation company so we have a pretty decent little woodshop where myself and one of my guys do little projects like these between our renovation work.

Another member of the local Land Cruiser club just dropped off his 40 series truck for a rear cargo box so that is next on the agenda.

View attachment 333087
Fireball, I can't wait to see at you come up with for the 40, you should create a thread for us to watch along.
 

westranger29

Adventurer
Here was my Saturday project, got it done in a day for $100 in materials. Wanted to keep the setup versatile so I could still remove it and use the length of the bed if I need to.









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rayra

Expedition Leader
westramger, it looks like you can flip the rearmost 40% of that center deck over the front half, with the whole thing in place?

versatile indeed, good job. Any plans to seal or paint it?
 

jeepin_idaho

Adventurer
Does anyone have experience using a combination of Rollerblade bearings and square tubing to make drawer slides? I'd love to purchase some high quality slides but I likely will not be keeping my current vehicle for a long enough time to make that money well spent. Good slides seem to be the most expensive competent in a simple storage system.

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westranger29

Adventurer
Thanks guys! I'm happy with the way it turned out.

Yes rayra, either side can be flipped over the other in place. No plans to seal or paint it, I used ACX plywood, which is exterior grade with one sanded side. It's smooth enough for the camping I'll be doing.




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