Post up your drawer/storage system

Herbie

Rendezvous Conspirator
Which paddle latches are you using? For most of these, the keeper (the part the latch grabs onto) has slotted holes and is therefore slightly adjustable. I would think this should be sufficient to account for the eventual compression of the carpet. (And yes, this compression is likely if the normal closed position of the drawer face is a tight fit.)
 

theksmith

Explorer
I’m part way into my drawer build and have cut everything according to the drawer fronts sitting in front of the drawer container box as opposed to being recessed into the drawer container openings.
I’ve put together my drawer container box and am just at the point of starting to put the drawer carcasses together.

I originally planned on painting everything but I’m starting to think that carpet on it would be nice since it dampens the noise of anything stored on top of the drawer container box, it should be a bit more cushioned (since I plan on using it as part of a bed platform) and the roughness of the carpet should also help keep the sleeping mat/pad/cushion from sliding about better than a smooth surface would.

Having birch drawer fronts resting against a carpeted drawer container box doesn’t seem to look right. Of the colours available, I prefer the anthracite carpet for with my car interior.

If the drawer fronts are wrapped in carpet and the drawer container box is carpeted that leaves a double thickness of carpet where the two faces meet.
The drawers will be secured in place using paddle latches.
Will the carpet compress over time giving more play in the drawers when closed or would that be negligible and not be worth concern?
Would I be better ignoring carpet and keeping the wood finish and just use some rubber matting on top instead?
I did look into using truck bed liner paint but that doesn’t seem to cover much per can so would work out quite expensive compared to rubber matting or carpet.
Any advice or suggestions would be good because until I decide what I’m doing I can’t really carry on since mounting the drawers all depends on whether I need to allow for carpet or not.
you could just carpet the top face, then use aluminum edging to provide a finished look while preventing the carpet edges from ever turning up.
 

amnesia7

New member
you could just carpet the top face, then use aluminum edging to provide a finished look while preventing the carpet edges from ever turning up.
Does anyone have an example of what that would look like?

It has crossed my mind but wasn’t sure how it would look.

Sorry if this all sounds petty but I just don’t want to spend all this time, money and effort and it be let down by it’s final appearance.
 

Herbie

Rendezvous Conspirator
Does anyone have an example of what that would look like?

It has crossed my mind but wasn’t sure how it would look.

Sorry if this all sounds petty but I just don’t want to spend all this time, money and effort and it be let down by it’s final appearance.
Here's a sample of the old ARB drawers: https://adventure-ready.com/store/arb-outback-solutions-rd845-drawer/

Different drawer face arrangement, but you can get the idea of how one can trim the edge of a carpet-covered drawer carcass. I'd just use the plain angle aluminum that's like 1/16" thick - easy to miter the corners, etc.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
Does anyone have an example of what that would look like?

It has crossed my mind but wasn’t sure how it would look.

Sorry if this all sounds petty but I just don’t want to spend all this time, money and effort and it be let down by it’s final appearance.
There's plenty of examples right in this topic, if you do a little work looking for them. Dont even need to go back that many pages to find one with some aluminum diamond plate edge trim.




Knowing I'd be abusing mine pretty hard, I made some more robust 'sacrificial' edges and have beat them up pretty good. And carpet is still nice.


 

jgaz

Adventurer
As @rayra said, check out all the pages in this thread. You may find something you like even better.

My drawer box, carpet only on the top. The sacrificial wood on the rear edge also acts as a stop to keep totes from sliding aft against the rear glass. It is also a good place to mount a scrap of tie down track. (A matching sacrificial piece has since been added to the front edge of box)
F2E4EA6C-796A-4857-B9F4-E2F104FFA4E7.jpeg
 

amnesia7

New member
Thanks. Yeah I’ve been through the whole thread a couple of times as well as bookmarking quite a few of the setups (including yours) so I can compare them more easily. I think the reason I posted my question was in case I’d missed anything that my prompt a response.

This is the video that actually got me started:
I don’t think I’d have got to the stage I’m at so far without it because a lot of drawer building techniques require more equipment than I’ve got access to, including a large flat workbench...I’m building mine on the kitchen floor when space allows.
Unfortunately the video has the drawer fronts in front of the box which is fine in their situation because they paint it but I’m not convinced a painted top is right for me when I want to use it for a sleeping platform, which is why I’m tending towards either a rubber matting on top or covering (some or all of) it in carpet.
 
Last edited:

rayra

Expedition Leader
well I can say it doesn't matter what you cover it with it will still be hard and unyielding. Plan on using an air mattress. Little bit of carpet or foam isn't going to help much at all.
 

amnesia7

New member
How much (van lining) carpet should you wrap around and glue onto the reverse side of the plywood to ensure it’s secured in place?
Are we talking a couple of inches? More? Less? Does it matter?
 

Chuckles89

New member
Don’t think I ever posted this after we added the storage to the side. With the width of the slides and 3/4 inch ply depth we have just enough room for this stuff that is always in the cruiser and no longer need to hunt around for it.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Is that just thin webbing and screws?
 

amnesia7

New member
Pics of progress so far.
Just had a bit of a test fit to make sure all the brackets and tie downs etc are in the right place.
Still a bit to do yet because it’ll be covered in carpet yet, drawer fronts to and still the side wings and bed extension section to add.

When I go off road I can be on some awkward angles; let’s say about 30 degrees side tilt. The fridge will be sat on carpet but it can still move sideways a little bit on the wood as it is now.
Should I add a small upright piece or aluminium angle or something to hold it in place/stop it sliding too much?
Or should I just move the footman loops wider?
Or will it more than likely be fine once it’s on carpet?
Or are there some grippy feet that I can stick to the bottom of the fridge to get it to cling onto the carpet better?
I’m not looking for too expensive of a solution like a fridge tray. I don’t have welding facilities to Male my own either.
I’m not sure if a wide U bolt would do although not sure how much strain that might put on the plywood if it’s got the weight acting on it for too long. It’s 18mm birch plywood top if that makes any difference.
 

Attachments

Top