Post up your drawer/storage system

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Greenbean

B.S. Goodwrench
- The cargo attic holds soft stuff like jackets and such. I'm using a 48" Metra food shelving that spans both sides of the cargo area.


-There is a slide out (more like, rotate out) tray under the fridge that is used to temp hold food during loading/unloading the fridge. You can see a hose in the same area and it is connected to the water bladder for dishwashing. The tray also holds clean dishes during dishwashing.

- A handwashing station is always ready with a soap dispenser on the door, next to the fridge, along with a towel. So nice to wash hands at a moment's notice before making a samich.

- An utensil holding system made out of thick canvas is attached to the left side of the kitchen. Each utensil has its own compartment, which eliminates any rattling and also promotes quick access for roadside lunch action. Knives and a medium size cutting board live here as well. My daughter is amazing with a sewing machine!


Let me know if you have any questions.


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Brother your kid is amazing with a sewing machine! That looks great!

Did you do the rotating hand washing shelf yourself?

I’d love to have something like that on my 100, great idea!

Also props to your Metra shelf, I have one and use one of their hanging bins also.

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alia176

Explorer
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome
Brother your kid is amazing with a sewing machine! That looks great!

Did you do the rotating hand washing shelf yourself?

I’d love to have something like that on my 100, great idea!

Also props to your Metra shelf, I have one and use one of their hanging bins also.

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Yup, that rotating shelf idea is mine and it's a super handy feature, if I do say so myself.

Nice job on the METRA shelf and the hanging bin, they're uber handy. I installed a second one in the 4runner and made the mistake of removing the top bar that (closest to you) run across the unit for ease of access. The roof line in the 4runner is different than the 80. However removing that one cross bar really weakened the shelf as it now moves up/down during driving and makes the entire thing a tad noisy. So, I'm going to get another METRA shelf and not muck with it! Lesson learned.
 

dstefan

Well-known member
Just curious about weights savings so pardon the newb question! I'm noticing some builds here that are using either ALUM extrusions or ALUM square tubing then "skinning" with plywood material. Obviously the drawers need all sides but is it necessary to skin the sides too, other than purely for aesthetics? I'm trying to save on weight and was tossing around the idea of not skinning the sides or the bottom if I go with ALUM or 16g steel (angle or square tubing).
You can make very durable drawers that weigh next to nothing out of coroplast (plastic corrugated cardboard, essentially).

Here’s how it worked for my build:
Well, if weight is a top concern, you could consider make the drawers out of Coroplast with some added reinforcement. They don’t need runners if you have a flat bottom in the casing for them to slide on. Extremely tough material, but has some flex. you can load them up if well built.
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This drawer has about 25lbs of crap in it. 25”x18”x7”

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I wrote up a short how-to elsewhere:


They are way easier to make than wood drawers and easy to repeat with a layout template for several same sized ones.
 

dstefan

Well-known member
For some reason the “how to“ section didnt show…
Coroplast will give you rigidity along the flute/chanel lines, but can be flexible. If you anchor the walls on the side it would be pretty impact forgiving. It's just much easier, cheaper and quicker to work with. No sawing, dust, sealing, finishing, etc. I'm using 4mm but there is a stronger, still light 6mm available, but not at Home Depot.


Just to be clear, the drawers are actually completely made of coroplast, but with some corner and edge reinforcement which actually can be optional. There's no inside frame. The strength comes from the folding. Don't have construction process pictures, but I was garage cleaning this morning and found my cardboard drawer template so I marked it up quickly:
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Here's a quick how to:

1) Layout and cut the drawer blank (I like a quick cardboard mock-up to verify it's gonna fit first)
2) Slit the top layer ONLY of the two fold lines that go in the direction of the channels/flutes
3) Lightly score with a utility knife the other two fold lines that go across the flutes. (I also run a rotary pizza cutter along the line using a straight edge to break down the little walls). ALL the cuts/scores of the fold lines are done inside the box only. Gives you smooth bottom edges and corners.
4) Fold it up and tape the corners.
You could stop here for a really light duty box if you use good tape. I've made boxes with 2" Gaffer tape that have held up for years. Read on for a more durable one . . .
5) Clean the inside corners with isopropyl alcohol and lightly scuff with ~120 grit sand paper (using the VHB primer as well is even stronger)
6) Apply VHB tape to the corners (dashed lines in the picture) and roll it or press for a good adhesion
7) Fit 4 corner braces of hardware store 3/4' alum angle that you've cut to the box height in the corners and roll/press again. Oh, first clean and scuff the alum angle too. No need for primer on it.
8) If you want real side rigidity, you can buy some hardware store/Home Depot 1/4"aluminum plywood trim channel for edging. You can just press fit this. It will be held by the alum corner braces plus the coroplast

No need for a frame otherwise. The bottom fold lines on each side give rigidity. The drawer I made for my back seat platform is holding 20lbs of stuff and I take it out to store in the house, so I VHB'd another full piece of coroplast on the inside bottom of the drawer for a little more bottom support as its quite long.

I made the drawer in the camper exactly as described and its quite rigid.

If you're gonna work much with coroplast, get one of these:

Makes it real easy to cut either 1 or both layers along the flutes. You can also use it to make coroplast hinges, and you can make corner reinforcements with it.
 

Ozarker

Explorer
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This type is going in my cargo trailer build.





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E Track now on the walls
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With several of these, hooks and rings.

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Coleman camp kitchen, to use inside the trailer or out.

Quick, easy, light weight build.
 

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