Here is the one I built a few months ago for the jeep.
Where did those recessed tie down hooks come from? I've been looking around and can't seem to find a decent black flush mount hook.
Post up your drawer/storage system
- Thread starter neliconcept
- Start date
Where did those recessed tie down hooks come from? I've been looking around and can't seem to find a decent black flush mount hook.
Wonka Toy
New member
Low cost Solution for my Range Rover Classic
Take two cheap slimline roller boxes (€12 each), one 8*4 sheet 1/2 inch marine ply, six lengths 3/4in quadrant, glue and screws and set to work:
First I made a box 10mm higher than the boxes and with a 22.5 degree slope on the front to fit the seats...
Next I made two internal dividers giving three compartments in all. The quadrant gives extra support to the joints while the rounded ends help to locate/guide the boxes in. The plan for the centre compartment is to make a ground anchor to store in here...
The cutting was kept simple by making the floor/base smaller to fit between the wheel arches while making the top wider to fill the whole boot.....
Finally the top was cut to fit and tested for strength by some willing bystanders...
Since finishing the woodwork I have trimmed the top in some industrial carpet to stop the dogs from skating and trimmed the edges with some plastic anglewhich is a couple of millimeters wider than the ply and stops the boxes rolling out accidentally.
I have to secure it to the floor yet but first I better replace the rusty section
Take two cheap slimline roller boxes (€12 each), one 8*4 sheet 1/2 inch marine ply, six lengths 3/4in quadrant, glue and screws and set to work:
First I made a box 10mm higher than the boxes and with a 22.5 degree slope on the front to fit the seats...
Next I made two internal dividers giving three compartments in all. The quadrant gives extra support to the joints while the rounded ends help to locate/guide the boxes in. The plan for the centre compartment is to make a ground anchor to store in here...
The cutting was kept simple by making the floor/base smaller to fit between the wheel arches while making the top wider to fill the whole boot.....
Finally the top was cut to fit and tested for strength by some willing bystanders...
Since finishing the woodwork I have trimmed the top in some industrial carpet to stop the dogs from skating and trimmed the edges with some plastic anglewhich is a couple of millimeters wider than the ply and stops the boxes rolling out accidentally.
I have to secure it to the floor yet but first I better replace the rusty section
Attachments
04 wj.
to get the most width i lifted the sleeping surface above the 'wells and trimmed interior panels. i cut the headliner to make extra head room and to allow for the 'flip' portion to be the longest possible. i have good size storage for gear due to this 'lift'. oh, and pull back the carpet under that to reveal a false floor and then the entire spare well is used for the larger tools that dont get used as often. the pull out 'slide' that supports the 'flip' provides add'l storage (it holds my personal effects duffels, clothes etc.). as far as the upper area, im still bouncing ideas, attic, etc? questions or ideas?, holla!
more pics here. http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26626&page=2
to get the most width i lifted the sleeping surface above the 'wells and trimmed interior panels. i cut the headliner to make extra head room and to allow for the 'flip' portion to be the longest possible. i have good size storage for gear due to this 'lift'. oh, and pull back the carpet under that to reveal a false floor and then the entire spare well is used for the larger tools that dont get used as often. the pull out 'slide' that supports the 'flip' provides add'l storage (it holds my personal effects duffels, clothes etc.). as far as the upper area, im still bouncing ideas, attic, etc? questions or ideas?, holla!
more pics here. http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26626&page=2
Desert Dan
Explorer
It looks great.
I might have used hingesthat were more flush with the carpeting or a piano hinge
I might have used hingesthat were more flush with the carpeting or a piano hinge
heres my H3 cargo storage drawer that turned into a sleeping platform. Its made of 3/4" plywood and trimed out with precoated book shelf track. I used book shelf supports and 1" bookshelf track as an ibeam along with some side wing extensions for more shoulder space. The sidewing ibeams support the platform up to a couple of support legs. the boot shelf supports are attached to the box . still working on a few things like the floor mounts and tie down mounts. And im thinking of a removible frig slid platform. Thanks to all that posted up thier systems it gave me so many ideas and headaches:Wow1:
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rubberduck
Observer
I Have to move it forward for the extra space for the platfofrm to work With the platform deployed its 48x 73"
rubberduck
Observer
Everything is bolted and the tools are held by quickfists.
Thanks
Thanks
Herbie
Rendezvous Conspirator
Big thanks to everyone who has posted ideas into this thread! I've taken lots of inspiration.
Here is my system (version1, always leave room for improvement). I have a conversion-van bench seat that folds back into a short bed. In order to extend the bed to a full 72" long, I wanted to incorporate a bed platform into the storage mechanism and be sure to waste NO precious space.
The system starts with a box that snugs up against the back of the bench. It's 3/4" CDX plywood, screwed and glued. Inside covered in brush-on bedliner, outside carpeted in a decent match to the OEM carpet. One side of the box holds the house battery and electronics, the rest is tool storage for now, but I sized the compartments for an Espar D2 heater if I can find one at a reasonable price.
The tall rearward edge of the box also supports the forward edge of the bed platform. The platform attaches here with removable pin hinges so that I can pivot the platform up to access the jack compartment on the right side, and things underneath.
The support legs attach with knob-headed bolts so that I have a tool-less way to remove the legs and break everything down so it can store flat in my garage when not in use. There are tee-nuts in the platform for the legs, and additional nuts on the corners so I can add longer (telescoping) legs and use the bed platform as a camp-table if needed.
Storage underneath the platform is based around bins for easy packing/unpacking of the vehicle (also my daily driver), so I can quickly move the bins from van to shelves in the garage, and back. The storage area will take three large Roughneck totes, or two large plus one "short" bin with my Coleman stove on top, or two bins and a 7-gallon water jug.
There's room under the bench/bed for a water tank, so eventually water will be plumbed in a bit more permanently, but for my solo shakedown trip to Overland Expo last month, this was more than enough room for all of my gear.
More details and photos available in my build thread, and even MORE pictures available in my web album.
Here is my system (version1, always leave room for improvement). I have a conversion-van bench seat that folds back into a short bed. In order to extend the bed to a full 72" long, I wanted to incorporate a bed platform into the storage mechanism and be sure to waste NO precious space.
The system starts with a box that snugs up against the back of the bench. It's 3/4" CDX plywood, screwed and glued. Inside covered in brush-on bedliner, outside carpeted in a decent match to the OEM carpet. One side of the box holds the house battery and electronics, the rest is tool storage for now, but I sized the compartments for an Espar D2 heater if I can find one at a reasonable price.
The tall rearward edge of the box also supports the forward edge of the bed platform. The platform attaches here with removable pin hinges so that I can pivot the platform up to access the jack compartment on the right side, and things underneath.
The support legs attach with knob-headed bolts so that I have a tool-less way to remove the legs and break everything down so it can store flat in my garage when not in use. There are tee-nuts in the platform for the legs, and additional nuts on the corners so I can add longer (telescoping) legs and use the bed platform as a camp-table if needed.
Storage underneath the platform is based around bins for easy packing/unpacking of the vehicle (also my daily driver), so I can quickly move the bins from van to shelves in the garage, and back. The storage area will take three large Roughneck totes, or two large plus one "short" bin with my Coleman stove on top, or two bins and a 7-gallon water jug.
There's room under the bench/bed for a water tank, so eventually water will be plumbed in a bit more permanently, but for my solo shakedown trip to Overland Expo last month, this was more than enough room for all of my gear.
More details and photos available in my build thread, and even MORE pictures available in my web album.
thanks back at ya! i think the what makes the piano hinge so effective is that the load is spread out along the whole joint ,needing a lesser size hinge pen. thats makes them attractive for theese kinds of projects. I first ordered a al aluminum hinge that was 21/2" wide but didnt like it ,felt pretty flimsey so i got a couple of2" steel hinges. a couple of boating stores told me the aluminum hinges would have been more than enough,but i just felt better about the steel hinges and they where nice and blingy chrome. I think the pens where 1/8".
Well, I might as well post up my setup since it's nearing completion. The original idea was to create a proper cargo barrier with a shelf for bi-level storage. Mostly to stop stuff flying forward, but the two-level will help keep things stabilized. I've packed almost to the roof before and, it's not cool. After a few miles off-road, shift happens.
The Discovery has quite a bit of storage room, but it's mostly oriented vertically. It would be too easy for things to fly over the seat and hit my kids. Some people rely on the factory tie-down points to secure their load, but they are simply weld-nuts welded to the 20 gauge sheet metal floor.
The first order of business was the forward bulkhead. I'm building it with roll-cage specs in mind, because hopefully if the truck is ever upside down, it will help protect the kids, or worst case, won't collapse and make the situation worse. 2" square 1/8" wall tube.
This will have 2" square mesh applied to it. Next, I built a cargo shelf frame. The height of this will match the height of the top of the cubby boxes on the sides.
Next, I added backstays which bolt to the factory 3rd row headrest mounting points.
2 6mm bolts each side, which I don't think will be enough. I'll probably end up welding the feet to the structure. This will be a bolted connection here.
It was very hard to get the cage back out to finish welding and paint. Hopefully it goes back in OK!
The Discovery has quite a bit of storage room, but it's mostly oriented vertically. It would be too easy for things to fly over the seat and hit my kids. Some people rely on the factory tie-down points to secure their load, but they are simply weld-nuts welded to the 20 gauge sheet metal floor.
The first order of business was the forward bulkhead. I'm building it with roll-cage specs in mind, because hopefully if the truck is ever upside down, it will help protect the kids, or worst case, won't collapse and make the situation worse. 2" square 1/8" wall tube.
This will have 2" square mesh applied to it. Next, I built a cargo shelf frame. The height of this will match the height of the top of the cubby boxes on the sides.
Next, I added backstays which bolt to the factory 3rd row headrest mounting points.
2 6mm bolts each side, which I don't think will be enough. I'll probably end up welding the feet to the structure. This will be a bolted connection here.
It was very hard to get the cage back out to finish welding and paint. Hopefully it goes back in OK!