Preventing corrosion when mounting camper to aluminum flatbed with bolts

[jmmaxus]

I and some others recommended some coated bolts, and they are all some sort of zinc coated. Here’s another way to look at it. Military trailers such as M1101/M1102 are all aluminum and are bolted, granted they are huck bolted, but the bolts they use are steel huck bolts encased in a Zinc Plated Clear Chromate sleeve and they don’t use special liquids or rubber/Nylon washers etc. The civilian version of these trailers the Schutt Xventure offer a 10 year warranty on the frame and are built exactly the same way using the same bolts and they’ve never had a failed frame reported.


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[ReluctantTraveler]

I've also been toying with something like this for easier latching/disconnecting, but I'm not sure if they can handle the sheering force.

 

[jmmaxus]

I've also been toying with something like this for easier latching/disconnecting, but I'm not sure if they can handle the sheering force.

Wonder if anyone’s done it. The one you linked to only has a 2000 lb rating, zooming in the through holes for mounting are only .236” (6 mm) so is undersized and the overall rating is low at 2000lb. Maybe if you find one with higher rating. Probably one that uses at least 5/16” bolts which will prob be one that has higher weight rating.


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[ReluctantTraveler]

Wonder if anyone’s done it. The one you linked to only has a 2000 lb rating, zooming in the through holes for mounting are only .236” (6 mm) so is undersized and the overall rating is low at 2000lb. Maybe if you find one with higher rating. Probably one that uses at least 5/16” bolts which will prob be one that has higher weight rating.


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I thought I saw them on the original Bison Overland camper (they're not on their newer models), but looking at this video more closely, I realize that it doesn't appear to actually be attached to anything.

 

[jmmaxus]

I thought I saw them on the original Bison Overland camper (they're not on their newer models), but looking at this video more closely, I realize that it doesn't appear to actually be attached to anything.

I see them in video but I can’t figure out either how their attached or what other purpose they have. It seems flatbed campers are setup to be more permanently mounted anyways vs a slide in, so it just doesn’t seem like a feature that would be commonly desirable on a flatbed. Slide-ins use turnbuckles, straps, and other connecting methods that allow ability to disconnect although not as quick as a clamp.


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[ReluctantTraveler]

I see them in video but I can’t figure out either how their attached or what other purpose they have. It seems flatbed campers are setup to be more permanently mounted anyways vs a slide in, so it just doesn’t seem like a feature that would be commonly desirable on a flatbed. Slide-ins use turnbuckles, straps, and other connecting methods that allow ability to disconnect although not as quick as a clamp.


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Oh for sure!

Part of the process of "selling this" to my spouse, though, has been promising her that I'll find a way to make it easily detachable in case we want to make camp somewhere for a few days and NOT have to bring the whole camper with us everywhere we go.

Sometimes we do more "traditional camping" instead of overlanding, and being able to just drive the truck downtown instead of the whole rig was an important ask.

I'm ultimately leaning towards some custom brackets like IdaSHO has on the IdaCamper.

From what Kenny has shared, they both help line up the camper when attaching it, and make it easier to reach the bolts for mounting/unmounting.

 

[jmmaxus]

Oh for sure!

Part of the process of "selling this" to my spouse, though, has been promising her that I'll find a way to make it easily detachable in case we want to make camp somewhere for a few days and NOT have to bring the whole camper with us everywhere we go.

Sometimes we do more "traditional camping" instead of overlanding, and being able to just drive the truck downtown instead of the whole rig was an important ask.

I'm ultimately leaning towards some custom brackets like IdaSHO has on the IdaCamper.

From what Kenny has shared, they both help line up the camper when attaching it, and make it easier to reach the bolts for mounting/unmounting.

The problem you may encounter with unloading a camper is that the ground won’t always be perfectly level and likely most of the time uneven surface. If you have a rigid mount that requires precise alignment to either clamp or get a bolt to do through you may find yourself cussing and frustrated trying to back a truck up on uneven ground to align perfectly. Something that is adjustable would probably be ideal.


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[IdaSHO]

I'm ultimately leaning towards some custom brackets like IdaSHO has on the IdaCamper.

From what Kenny has shared, they both help line up the camper when attaching it, and make it easier to reach the bolts for mounting/unmounting.

Your exactly correct.
Im actually loading the truck this afternoon in prep for a 2 week trip we leave on next week.
Ill snap a few photos of things, and the process of loading/unloading.
With the setup I have its very quick and secure.

Edit::

Here you go

Idacamper Custom Flatbed

Ive had quite a few comments and requests for more info on this setup. It is a 10' bed with 8" flat, 2' cross body box. Chassis of the truck (2011 Superduty) was extended 24" Bed rides on a 3-point pivot torsion free subframe Complete with integrated self aligning mounts (for camper) and slide...

expeditionportal.com

 

[eatSleepWoof]

I used stainless bolts used to secure the aluminium license plate on my vehicle. I attached these bolts about 2.5-3 years ago, and a month ago I noticed that the license plate had completely corroded away at the attachment points.

Now replaced with a new plate & a plastic license plate cover between the bolts and the plate.

 

[plh]

I wouldn't use stainless fasteners where you are looking for a high strength connection.

 

[Alloy]

I used stainless bolts used to secure the aluminium license plate on my vehicle. I attached these bolts about 2.5-3 years ago, and a month ago I noticed that the license plate had completely corroded away at the attachment points.

Now replaced with a new plate & a plastic license plate cover between the bolts and the plate.

Licence plates are utility grade aluminum.

 

[jmmaxus]

I used stainless bolts used to secure the aluminium license plate on my vehicle. I attached these bolts about 2.5-3 years ago, and a month ago I noticed that the license plate had completely corroded away at the attachment points.

Now replaced with a new plate & a plastic license plate cover between the bolts and the plate.

Stainless is still better than plain steel; however, between SS and Aluminum the first to go is Aluminum. Looking at galvanic/nobility dissimilar metals charts Zinc is closer to Aluminum. I believe the Zinc coating is the first to corrode sparing the Aluminum until the coating is gone. I think the downside is finding a coating that can hold up to outdoor environment as much as SS, one that can prob would be better to use over SS when fastening Aluminum.


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[Alloy]

Stainless is still better than plain steel; however, between SS and Aluminum the first to go is Aluminum. Looking at galvanic/nobility dissimilar metals charts Zinc is closer to Aluminum. I believe the Zinc coating is the first to corrode sparing the Aluminum until the coating is gone. I think the downside is finding a coating that can hold up to outdoor environment as much as SS, one that can prob would be better to use over SS when fastening Aluminum.


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Tef-Gel, contains no water so it can't react with water. Bolts only need the amount that will fits on the end of a 5/32" drill bit.

I buy the 20CC syringes

TEF-GEL - Ultra safety systems - Home page