Proud Rhino Lift Kit Causing Front Axels to Go Bad

bri

Adventurer
Thanks for the feedback. Never heard back from Licky8. Bringing it to the shop on Monday to take the lift out and go back to stock including the stock wheels and tires. I don’t want to be replacing the axels every two years.

from my little knowledge while looking at LR4 purchase is that the rods, i.e. lift, you are x" over stock all the time which cause wear. If you like performance and can deal with any rubbing when suspension is lower (access height or lower), I would call l8 and see if their HD axles will solve your issue.
 

USA Carry

New member
from my little knowledge while looking at LR4 purchase is that the rods, i.e. lift, you are x" over stock all the time which cause wear. If you like performance and can deal with any rubbing when suspension is lower (access height or lower), I would call l8 and see if their HD axles will solve your issue.

Spending 4K on axels is not an option. I'm removing the lift and going back to stock tires and wheels Monday.
 

bri

Adventurer
makes sense. from what I have heard 265 65 18 are the safest bet on slightly larger tires. I don't have an lr4 yet, but that is what I will attempt.

especially since the axles at l8 seem way overkill for 1" tire increase.

what was the symptom?

Typical cv gone bad sound?

sorry to hear about problems.
 

spikemd

Explorer
$4k on axles? That sounds ridiculous! 1k a corner? Driving withe it lifted will stress the CVs. If u are using the lift rods, they are super easy to change on the fly and I can change them out on a LR3/4 in about 15 minutes. Just pop the ends off the sensors and swap the new ones in. Gives u the lift instantly while offroading and can remove them when done especially if u don't do a lot of trips. GAP tool is great as well because u can program the lift electronically only when u need it. I would recommend the GAP tool for every owner regardless of lift to help diagnose and reset the computer. Very useful for diagnosing engine and suspension issues.
 

bri

Adventurer
$4k on axles? That sounds ridiculous! 1k a corner? Driving withe it lifted will stress the CVs. If u are using the lift rods, they are super easy to change on the fly and I can change them out on a LR3/4 in about 15 minutes. Just pop the ends off the sensors and swap the new ones in. Gives u the lift instantly while offroading and can remove them when done especially if u don't do a lot of trips. GAP tool is great as well because u can program the lift electronically only when u need it. I would recommend the GAP tool for every owner regardless of lift to help diagnose and reset the computer. Very useful for diagnosing engine and suspension issues.

The axles in question have 2 additional CV to accommodate up to 40" tires and a 5 year warranty....at least so they say. seems nuts to do on an lr4, but hey, to each their own
 

DFNDER

Active member
Lift rods, wheel spacers, changing wheel ET, etc and anything that changes suspension geometry or forces generated on parts will have long term downsides. This should not be news to anyone doing mods. One of the reasons for subframe lifts vs lifting rods.
 

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