Questions for the Suburban/Yukon XL owners out there...

mnwanders

Member
This is a long-winded post for all those Suburban/Yukon XL owners out there. I’m just curious what advantages/disadvantages there are for a guy to consider between a 1500 versus a 2500, and a GMT800 versus a GMT900? I believe I’m in the market for a better family adventure vehicle and I think I’ve decided that I need to move up from my Toyota Sequoia to a Suburban. Here’s my rationale and tell me what you think.

First, the biggest factor…we like to road trip, and there are six of us plus a dog. We live in Minnesota, and crushing miles at a relatively high rate of speed (if possible) and in safety and comfort is necessary to get to the mountains and places that we like to visit.

Second, believe it or not, but I’m actually considering the Suburban as my most economical and eco-friendly option. I know that sounds ridiculous but hear me out first. I like to maintain as small of a footprint as possible. I am first motivated by being cheap, and second I am motivated by being eco-friendly if at all possible. Ideally this would involve a lot of tent camping and backpacking and moving long range by our Honda Odyssey. For day to day use for a city family like us, there is no more useful and economical vehicle than a minivan in my opinion. However, I’ve noticed that the more safe and comfortable I make my family feel, the more places outdoors we (I) get to go. Hence that means car camping (or “overlanding”) seems to be more their speed.

So this journey began a few years ago after we took our Honda Odyssey to Glacier, MT. We camped in a tent and hauled our gear and bikes in a rooftop Thule and rear hitch rack. But two problems emerged, my wife was paranoid about camping in bear country, and the Odyssey went from its normal 21-22mpg down to about 13-14 with the thule box and bikes on top and trying to travel in the mountains at a decent speed. So I came home from that trip and decided that the secretly desired Land Crusier and RTT might actually be justified. So we now have a teardrop trailer with RTT on top so that everyone sleeps in comfort and my wife is more comfortable in bear and snake country. But after driving a few Land Cruisers I determined that they were probably too small for my family. I instead opted for the Sequoia for a few reasons: it had the same reliable V8 motor as the Land Cruiser, it had better leg room in the third row than the Land Cruiser, it had more cargo room behind the third row (but pails in comparison to the van), I thought I could maybe get close to the off-road performance of a Land Cruiser, and at the time I believed it would be more economical and maybe better off road than a Suburban or Ford Expedition. But as my kids grow in size (ages 14, 14, 12, 10) and we seem to haul more toys (fishing poles, guns, etc.) the more we get outdoors, I’m thinking that the bigger engine and cargo space of the Suburban might actually save me more gas and money. For starters, if I can store it inside the vehicle, I don’t have the drag of the Thule box up top, and I think the bigger engine (5.3L and 300hp vs 4.7L and 240hp) will actually keep us up to speed better, therefore using less gas. (This spring we average about 14.5 mpg pulling the teardrop to Big Bend NP and back. I was hoping it would be better than that for a 1500 lb trailer.)

Finally, while I think it would be awesome to go on as difficult of trails as possible, from what I can tell, as long as I’m toting around more than 5 people, a Suburban is probably as useful off pavement as the Sequoia. While the Sequoia is more nimble than people give it credit for, it’s never going to be a JKU or 4runner. Realistically I’m more likely going to soft-road it to a camping area and then walk after that. I don’t see serious off-roading in my future.

So back to my question, what are the advantages of a 2500 Suburban over a 1500? I've read a bunch of your posts, and it seems like 2500's are prized, but I’m thinking a 1500 is probably best in keeping with my "stay as light as possible" philosophy, and since I don’t plan on towing much more than a couple thousand pounds at the max, should I even consider a 2500? Also, the payload seems to be much greater for the GMT800 than the GMT900, and I like the looks of the GMT800 better. Is there any reason to spend the extra cash for the newer GMT900?

Sorry for the long-winded post. I appreciate any insights you can give.
 

Bojak

Adventurer
My .02, get a gmt 800 series in 1500. Seems like alot more suspension options for 1500. Atomics coilovers conversion would be the route I went. I would stay mild on lift and tires, probably run a 285/75. Enough time to have fun with but run up and down the road comfortably too. All this is IMOP and not of any real value. I drive a 2500hd on 35's so I'm probably saying what I wish I'd have done versus what I did.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 

mnwanders

Member
My .02, get a gmt 800 series in 1500. Seems like alot more suspension options for 1500. Atomics coilovers conversion would be the route I went. I would stay mild on lift and tires, probably run a 285/75. Enough time to have fun with but run up and down the road comfortably too. All this is IMOP and not of any real value. I drive a 2500hd on 35's so I'm probably saying what I wish I'd have done versus what I did.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

Thanks for the advice!

Also, I should add if anyone is interested in selling their lightly build Suburban, and telling me why I should buy it, I'm willing to listen.
 

02TahoeMD

Explorer
I would get a 2500 series Suburban. If I had the ability to start with a fresh sheet of paper, I would have gotten a 2500 Suburban, the heavy duty suspension and drivetrain is worth the cost, I put a 14 bolt hybrid axle under my Tahoe to help strengthen the drivetrain. With a 2500 Suburban, you dont need to beef it up. Just put on a mild lift and tires of your choice and go out exploring.
 

Martinjmpr

Wiffleball Batter
You can get surprisingly decent MPG out of a 1500 Suburban if you keep your foot out of it. Back in 2016 I bought a sidecar from a town about 200 miles to the Northwest (Craig, CO) which lay on the far side of two 9000'+ passes (Eisenhower Tunnel and Rabbit Ears.) At first I thought I'd need to take the utility trailer but as soon as I opened up the Suburban I realized that if I removed the 3rd row and folded the 2nd row down I'd easily have enough room (the 'burb has 8' of cargo room behind the front seats.)

I threw some tarps in the back to protect the carpet and drove up there to Craig. 210 miles up and 210 miles back, and when I got back to Denver 8 1/2 hours later I still had 1/4 tank of gas. I filled up and calculated my MPG at about 18.5. Not bad for a 5500lb vehicle!

Of course, I kept my speed down (rarely exceeded 65), hardly stopped (I think I stopped one time each way for a snack) and this was on stock tires (265/70/17s.) With the 31 gallon tank, even getting 15 MPG will give you a 450+ mile range.

BTW this wasn't a fluke. A few months before, the wife and I took an all-day trip to scout out campgrounds for the upcoming camping season. All day in the truck, 350+ miles and a solid 18 MPG.
 

Martinjmpr

Wiffleball Batter
As for the GMT 900 vs 800 question, that's a little thornier. I think the 900 is a good platform, but note that not all 4x4's have low range. The only way to be sure a GMT-900 has low range is to look at the selector dial to the left of the steering wheel. IIRC low range was only included if you ordered the "Towing package."

And since someone has asked it before, I will tell you that yes, I have used low range in my 'burb, several times in fact. Could I have made it through the places I did without low range? Possibly, although I think the extra set of low gears saved a lot of wear and tear on both the engine and transmission, which would have been slipping like crazy trying to get up those steep slopes. To me, low range is an absolute neccessity so before you make a deal on a GMT-900, decide whether you want the 2 speed transfer case or not.

On the plus side, starting in 2009, the GMT-900 trucks got the 6 speed auto vs the 4 speed on the GMT-800 and early GMT-900's. I know there have been many times when I felt like the transmission could have used a few more gears (climbing hills where 2nd seems too low and 3rd seems too high.) So there's that.

The biggest drawback to the GMT-800 trucks is that the newest ones are now over a decade old and most have a lot of miles on them. The weakest point IMO is the 4L60E transmission. Mine went out at 149k miles (the good news, though, is that it "failed safe" and still got me home, I just had to keep it in 2nd gear the whole way as I lost gears 3-4.) If you go with a GMT-800 it would be wise to budget about $2k for a transmission rebuild, if and when it goes out (not all do - there are people with 300k on their 4L60's.)
 

CrazyDrei

Space Monkey
nmwanders,

GMT800 1500 Suburban all the way no questions asked and no regrets, here is why. Just like Martinjmpr said consistent 18-18.5 mpg on the highway. If you add 6 people, 1,000 pounds of gear inside a ridiculous cargo basket and a Thule box on the roof filled with 1,000 lbs of gear on the roof and pull a 2,500 trailer to Alaska and back: expect closer to 12.5. I never took the roof rack off so I get 14.5mpg daily driving and 16.5mpg on the highway.

2500 series trucks weight 800-1,500lbs more than a 1500. The parts are more expensive than the 1500 and break more often. Unless you plan on keeping a 4horse trailer constantly hooked up to your Suburban there is absolutely no reason to get a 2500.

I run a 1500 with 37s, 3" body lift and Atomic Fab coilover setup that I will be (selling soon) replacing with a longer travel custom setup that I am building right now. I have beat the crap out of the truck for the last two years, run at least 100 miles on off road trails every week all over the South West and have never found any reason that a 2500 would have had a single advantage. Oh yeah I fix everything that breaks with eBay parts and Harbor Freight tools in my driveway with YouTube guidance.

$60 lifts a 1500 Sub 3" which is enough to clear 33" tires, another $350 body lift gets you a 6" lift that fits 35" tires and keeps the factory suspension geometry which doesn't require a realignment.

No experience with GMT-900 trucks yet, getting wifey one later this fall however as much as I want the bragging rights of a 2500 I'll save the $5-10k and get a 1500. But then again a 2014 Yukon XL 2500 will be a great investment truck to buy as that was the last year of the 2500 and will have the cult following of dreamers like the 7.3 Excursion.

Good luck with your decision, shows us some pics whatever you choose to buy and build!
 

mnwanders

Member
Thanks for all the feedback. Martinjmpr and Crazydrei, I'd already read a lot of your posts, and you've confirmed what I thought was probably true. Plus, you've inspired me now to get out and have even more fun!
 

WrenchMonkey

Mechanical Animal
If I was using it only as a family minivan and grocery-getter, I'd be fine with the 1500. If I'm towing, hauling, camping and even light offroading, I'd go 2500 and not think twice. (And I did.) Better cooling, better engines, better trans, better axles, better suspension. Better choice.
 

Attachments

  • burb 171221.jpg
    burb 171221.jpg
    302.5 KB · Views: 56

rayra

Expedition Leader
Stay away from the '07 (& '08?) vehicles with Active Fuel Management, they had some real teething problems and ring / bore damage, recalls, warranty repairs.

Biggest difference in a 800 vs 900 used, the 800 will have about 50k mi more and cost at least $10k less. If you go 800 series, get the later years, '04-'05, electric radiator fans, more electronic options, much more driver info controls, TPM.

A Sub will haul 6 people all day long in relative comfort with a very smooth ride and still have 36cu' of luggage room behind the 3rd row. Get a roof coffin and REALLY have all the room you need, without having to tow anything.

Having done a bunch of low-budget work turning my '02 K1500 into a simulacrum of a 2500, I say start with the 2500 PARTICULARLY IF YOU INTEND TO TOW ANYTHING HEAVY. We've done very well with our K1500s, towed a lot of light and moderate loads and paid careful attention to not overtaxing the drivetrain and the missus '05 is turning 200k mi now and my '02 has 138k mi and out '99 had 165k? when we traded it in for the '05. No trans troubles, knock on wood.

The Vortec engines are gold, as far as I'm concerned. Very little trouble, very inexpensive to fix especially if you can turn a wrench. Their parts support is still awesome / second to none. I say this having just changed the water pump on my Sub today (again, I went cheap 6mos ago and I drive way too hard / fast and blew the bearing seal, entirely my fault for the choices I made)

See my vortec topic (in my sig) for a summary of the known faults and their repairs.
 
Last edited:

Buliwyf

Viking with a Hammer
The last 'burb I drove was a 2500 with an absolutely pathetic 8600# GVWR. 6 people, a cooler, some basic tools, a RTT on the roof, and that little trailer would pretty much max it out. Keep in mind that 'burbs are already a bit porky compared to a pickup truck, so that GVWR doesn't leave much wiggle room. It was also a low rider with less ground clearance than a Power Wheels toy. [That must be fun to fix.]

(A 2500 truck is usually 10,000# GVWR, so I can carry 3100#, but still have to be careful with trailers and all of my gear, I can breath easy knowing that my rating is actually a "de-rating", but still, staying under 10,000# takes some effort with 4-5 people inside and a bed full of gear)

I'd imagine most 1500's are setup for people only, any kind of expo use would be taxing. And the rear axle on the 2500 is locker friendly. The 2500 gets real brakes, trans cooler, a real rear axle, and often a few little skid plates. And I hate the 5.3L. The 6.0L is a bit of a dog, but gets the job done. The 5.3L is just a gas guzzling dog. Never did any better mileage-wise than the 6.0L's I had.

Sadly the new 'burbs and Expeditions are girly people movers. I guess big families don't go camping anymore? (or do they just take and extra car?) Even the fleet 3500HD's are just being used as Limo's and taxi's. I've never seen anyone tow with them (happily) in a long time.

Go 2500, 6.0L, 4.10+. There's plenty of burb, yukon 1500 threads built up. Plenty of broken axles and such in those threads. If you have the option of a 2500, then start there.
 
Last edited:

rayra

Expedition Leader
^^^ lot of negative BS in that. Must have been a bare-bones LS. The tow-equipped and/or Z71 variants are much better than that, in all respects. Look for an LT or LTZ variant. And there are a lot of options for beefing things up both affordably and expensively. And the 5.7 and 5.3 are good motors, they get the job done. But if you want to romp and stomp and tow heavy things, yeah a bigger motor is better. But if it's 4-6 people on a road trip to camp/hike somewhere, the 5.3 is just fine. With the 32gal tanks you've got a cruising range of over 400mi.

curb weight on my k1500 z71 tow-packaged Sub with a full tank and about 300# of stuff in my full drawer / platform setup is about 5900lbs and my rated GVWR is 12,000. Same rating on our similar Tahoe.
Sub's are about 1200-lbs heavier than a comparable package extra cab pickup. Hauling 6-7 people and having all your gear INSIDE the vehicle is worth that weight difference to me. And it's a rare damned thing to stuff 6 adults in one. Usually it's a family load, man & woman and some younger kids. Not a lot of meat in that meatwagon.
Dont get put off by that GVWR badmouthing, Subs / Excursions are the biggest thing going, short of something like a Sportsmobile / E350/2500 Van. Suburbans have got the job done for ~80 years.

again, look in my Vortec topic, the first page has a roster of most of the 'GMT800 Mafia' here and links to their builds, but the recent board upgrade changed topic names and broke all the links. But the usernames are there and you can find their stuff. The roster has their vehicle type / class so you can narrow your search
 

CrazyDrei

Space Monkey
And the rear axle on the 2500 is locker friendly. The 2500 gets real brakes, trans cooler, a real rear axle, and often a few little skid plates. And I hate the 5.3L. The 6.0L is a bit of a dog, but gets the job done. The 5.3L is just a gas guzzling dog. Never did any better mileage-wise than the 6.0L's I had.

Sadly the new 'burbs and Expeditions are girly people movers. I guess big families don't go camping anymore? (or do they just take and extra car?) Even the fleet 3500HD's are just being used as Limo's and taxi's. I've never seen anyone tow with them (happily) in a long time.

Buliwyf,

The first sentence is best summarized with "I'd imagine" which is your biased, unsupported opinion, both 2500 and 1500 trucks have exactly the same options for rear lockers, only the 1500 G80 can be found on eBay for $100 shipped where as the 2500 G80 is much more rare and expensive. 2500 also gets brakes that are a real 1" smaller in diameter than the 1500s. 1500 with Z71 or towing package also have exactly the same trans cooler and exactly the same skid plates as the 2500. 1500 also has a real rear axle, if it didn't it would be front wheel drive. Finally driving same route, same load same consistency 5.3 always gets better MPG than the 6.0, by 1-5mpg.

Completely agree with the second sentence, just rented a 2017 Suburban couple weeks ago when I visited Boston and thought that I was in a sedan that drove smoother than my wife's 528i.

Cheers!
 

Martinjmpr

Wiffleball Batter
Also consider that if you can find a GMT800 2500 Suburban/Yukon XL, expect to pay a significant price premium over an equivalent 1500. By my seat-of-the-pants analysis, there are about 10 - 15 1500 Suburbans on the market for every 2500.

With GMT-900 Suburbans, the ratio is probably 25 1500s for every 2500. I believe the 2500 model was discontinued after 2013 but I'm not sure (it may have been that it was discontinued for "retail sales" but still available to fleets.) Either way, they are quite rare on the used market.

A 2500 also might have the 8.1l (495 cubic inch!) motor. Great if you're pulling a heavy trailer but don't expect to get MPG out of the single-digits even when you aren't pulling anything.
 

Buliwyf

Viking with a Hammer
Never mind. Get the 1500. Put as much weight as you want on it, then lock the axle up and wheel it hard with 35's on. Yee-haw.

What model years are you interested in?
 
Last edited:

Forum statistics

Threads
185,911
Messages
2,879,531
Members
225,497
Latest member
WonaWarrior
Top