Rear diff just let go

[AxeAngel]

All was going well till yesterday, noticed a lot of clunking when i lifted off the gas and was coasting. Today it got worse and was hearing a ton of gear whine.

I was driving to pick up some parts for the truck from my local indy shop, lifted off the gas, got some clunking and some grinding noise. He confirmed rear diff is going quick.

Anybody have their rear just let go while driving down the street? Will be draining the fluids when i get home. Have a stock diff and stock axles on there way already.

-Sam

 

[LeoLR]

Mine let out on my old D2 just out of the blue. I was running 256/75R16 around 110k on the clock. I just bolted in a new axel, took 2 hours to do.

 

[AxeAngel]

On 33s with 120k. What axle did you bolt in? I wanted to install the toy diff I have in the garage but don't have the toy axles yet.

Any trickery in removing the axles? I can keep them attached to the hubs and pull right?

-Sam

 

[LeoLR]

I just did the whole axel assemble, I didnt bother trying to do the diff and axel shafts. D2 rear axels go for $400 all day long. Its nothing too it, watts linkage is the worst part, make sure you install in right. Look up the torque values in rave and get cracking.



Im againest putting Crapota parts into a Rover. The Rovers have good axels, just don't overload them with huge tires.

 

[X-plorenow]

dude, that sucks, my condolences.

 

[mongosd2]

I just did the whole axel assemble, I didnt bother trying to do the diff and axel shafts. D2 rear axels go for $400 all day long. Its nothing too it, watts linkage is the worst part, make sure you install in right. Look up the torque values in rave and get cracking.



Im againest putting Crapota parts into a Rover. The Rovers have good axels, just don't overload them with huge tires.

So let me get this straight...

instead of pulling a 3rd and replacing it, you swapped axles

and toyota axles axles are crap?


gotta explain that one



and Sam, that sucks, time to re-gear and put a locker in

 

[LeoLR]

It takes half the time to swap a whole axel instead of taking everything apart and putting it back together with new seals and bearings the right way.




Idk anything about Toyota axels. I refer to Toyota as Crapota, similar to refering to Jeep as Heep. Dosnt mean their axels are bad or good. I dont care if they are or arent, Im not putting Toyota parts on my Land Rover so I dont care. I dont give a rats *** if you do or do not use Toyota parts in your Land Rover.

 

[Howski]

If your gona be doing any kind of wheeling might as well upgrade the rear diff instead of replacing the whole rear axle and housing. The stock carriers are a weak point (I learned this the hard way) and am really glad I got a detroit. Much better off road as well

 

[crusader]

It takes half the time to swap a whole axel instead of taking everything apart and putting it back together with new seals and bearings the right way.

????

 

[AxeAngel]

So let me get this straight...

instead of pulling a 3rd and replacing it, you swapped axles

and toyota axles axles are crap?


gotta explain that one



and Sam, that sucks, time to re-gear and put a locker in

I'm pissed I don't have the toy axles, I would have preferred to just do the whole yota swap now. Fortunately I got a stock 3rd and axles delivered to me for $130. At my door in 2.5 hrs. Gotta love having some great parts guys close to you.

Dropping in the diff and hopefully be on the road tomorrow or Saturday. Next time these go out I won't mess around with stock again.

The diff fluid upfront is honey colored as is the tcase. Rear diff fluid was silver glitter.

-Sam

 

[AKRover]

Last year my diff ovaled out the cross shaft holes and eventually broke the cross shaft. There aren't a lot of rover parts laying around in alaska so I had to buy a complete housing and I just swapped the diff out. It takes very little time to slide out axle shafts r&r a diff and slide the shafts back in. If the bearings are good and the seals aren't leaking why replace them?

I can tell my front diff is going too because there is more play then there should be in the pinion.

Ive put about 30000 miles on them with 255/85s and they are probably the original diff and the truck has 165000 on it so they have lasted a while.

 

[Rovertrader]

I put TT/gears in mine at 55k, and the stock rear third had several teeth gone and had had stock tires. Also had several buddies explode the rears with just a bit of offroading. Lockers and HD axles are the cure, and last forever. No need to do the Toy stuff unless big gain in HP and tire size- like 35-37".

 

[Viggen]

Ive got a Detroit in the rear of my D1 (255/85's) with 155k on the clock. Also, Im running the stock axles. After reading some horror stories about stockers letting got AND taking the Detroit with them and then talking with Justin at Lucky 8, I have a set of Ashcroft axles coming my way. Then, Ill regear to 3.80 or 3.90 and leave it alone.

 

[David Harris]

Agree on the Toy mod. The only reason people do this is to fit really big tires, rockcrawling, etc. From what I understand, you can make the LR units even stronger than Toy ones with currently available parts. Might be slightly cheaper to do the Toy mod at this point, not by much probably, though.

 

[AxeAngel]

Agree on the Toy mod. The only reason people do this is to fit really big tires, rockcrawling, etc. From what I understand, you can make the LR units even stronger than Toy ones with currently available parts. Might be slightly cheaper to do the Toy mod at this point, not by much probably, though.

How can the LR units be made stronger than the toy? Isn't the design inherently weaker?

-Sam