Rivet nuts??
- Thread starter taco_tay
- Start date
I've used them, and I think they're the handiest thing ever. Main thing to watch for is that the whole they're going into is only just big enough to minimise the risk of the rivnut turning in it, and to get the ones with the little ridges cut into the outside to get them to grip.
The tools to insert them are a small bit complicated the first time, but after using it once it becomes easy to use. Get a set and try them for yourself, and you'll wonder how you ever went so long without using them!
The tools to insert them are a small bit complicated the first time, but after using it once it becomes easy to use. Get a set and try them for yourself, and you'll wonder how you ever went so long without using them!
I love using rivnuts. I even have a set of mini aluminum ones... they actually came from harbor freight, but I use them for attaching stuff on the inside of my aluminum truck cap like lighting, wiring clips, small hooks, etc Because I hate ramming Tek screws into that thin aluminum tubing, and if I ever decide to relocate something, it leaves a nice finished threaded hole behind that can be used for something different in the future.
they're nice, but you do have to make sure that the metal they're going into is up to the task. the roof rack on the 2nd gen xterra is held on with these things, which is fine if you're using the factory shoulder bolts that stop down against the rivnut before pulling on it. when people mount led lights and other stuff and use the holes and hork down on the rivnuts, they have a tendency to pull out of the thin body sheet metal.
I had mine come out from over tightening due to the mounts putting the light bar too far from the air dam and causing turbulence and vibration in the air dam. i had to flatten the metal and drill it out to 11.5mm for the next size larger rivnuts.
before:
after:
I had mine come out from over tightening due to the mounts putting the light bar too far from the air dam and causing turbulence and vibration in the air dam. i had to flatten the metal and drill it out to 11.5mm for the next size larger rivnuts.
before:
after:
matthewp
Combat Truck Monkey
I love them too! The thing I learned the hard way was to NOT follow through with the urge to crank down the tool with every ounce of herculean strength you have. I found that it doesn't take a ridiculous amount of pressure to get the riv-nut secure if you drilled the hole the right size.
rabbiporkchop
Adventurer
Always buy American made Nut-Serts or Riv-Nuts but it is ok to use a Harbor Freight Nut Sert tool. The Chinese Nut Serts are total junk. I use Nut Serts for everything anytime I need to mount something to sheetmetal.
fishEH
Explorer
RivNuts make for a nice clean install. Make sure to use antisieze on whatever you thread in there, otherwise years of corrosion will take their toll and the Rivnut will just spin when you go to remove the bolt. Be careful what you thread in there, too. Anything that could possibly get ripped off will leave a gaping hole.
Herbie
Rendezvous Conspirator
Another tip from user Arclight on here in one of his threads: After installing the riv-nut, ALWAYS chase the threads with a tap before putting in your bolt.
Installing the riv-nut sometimes causes things to crimp slightly out of alignment - if you run a bolt in and the threads aren't perfect, you run the risk of it cross-threading slightly, then it will bind and spin in the hole. Bad news. Taking 30s to run the tap down will make sure that your bolt/machine screw goes in nice and smooth (like the anti-seize recommendation above).
Installing the riv-nut sometimes causes things to crimp slightly out of alignment - if you run a bolt in and the threads aren't perfect, you run the risk of it cross-threading slightly, then it will bind and spin in the hole. Bad news. Taking 30s to run the tap down will make sure that your bolt/machine screw goes in nice and smooth (like the anti-seize recommendation above).
If you're cheap like me and only have a few rivnuts to install, you can improvise a tool that works really well:
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/140475-Rivnut-options?p=1806880#post1806880
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/140475-Rivnut-options?p=1806880#post1806880
mhiscox
Expedition Leader
Sounds like we're all gung-ho for these. But be sure to believe the people telling you to drill the correct size of hole. For example, 1/4-20 rivserts call for a 25/64" hole, and it takes a pretty extensive collection of bits to just happen to have that size sitting around. But trying to use one that's "close" results in problems, either during the install or later when the insert is more likely to spin.
matthewp
Combat Truck Monkey
I have used that method to finish off a riv-nut after a tool crapped out on my due to my over-use!
Bingo! a 3/8" does NOT equal a 25/64" when working riv-nuts!!!!!!
Won't that remove material and weaken the threads?
taco_tay
Adventurer
Sweet thanks for all the advice guys! Think I'll spend the $20 at harbor freight for the tool then go to ace to buy the American made rivnuts. I have an all-pro pack rack coming today and I want to be able to mount light, shovel, axe and high lift to it. Think rivnuts can hold the weight of a high-lift under off-roading conditions?
Herbie
Rendezvous Conspirator
If the hole is straight, it shouldn't be any different than running a bolt down it. If it's NOT straight, generally it will push or bend the existing threads to better match the actual path/pitch of the tap/bolt. If you want to be technical, you really want to do this with a (regular) tapered tap. A bottoming tap generally has almost no taper, and might start cutting new threads.
Yuman Desert Rat
Expedition Leader
Most definitely invest in the exact size drill bit that you will need for each rivnut. Also be sure to deburr the hole and if possible paint or rust-proof the hole. Depending on the type of tool you use also helps. The mandrel on mine causes the lip on the rivnut to bubble up so I use a thick washer between the mandrel an the rivnut and in flattens out nicely.